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Old May 27, 2015, 04:15 PM
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Mine has no play at all on the mainshaft. In fact I had problems getting the bottom block in because the pin can be difficult to seat in to the belt pulley fully making it look as if the maingear stack doesn't fit between the two bearings. I initially thought that the manual was wrong with the size of the shims used but later I found out that the pin needs to be lined up precisely in order to go completely into the slot on the bottom of the pulley.
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Old May 28, 2015, 01:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Atomic Skull View Post
Mine has no play at all on the mainshaft. In fact I had problems getting the bottom block in because the pin can be difficult to seat in to the belt pulley fully making it look as if the maingear stack doesn't fit between the two bearings. I initially thought that the manual was wrong with the size of the shims used but later I found out that the pin needs to be lined up precisely in order to go completely into the slot on the bottom of the pulley.
Mine has no play either, and yes difficulty in inserting pin. It also only goes in one way as hole in shaft eccentric - found out the hard way
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Old May 28, 2015, 01:33 PM
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What i did was to pull the whole servo block up, place the pin and slide the servo block back to the frame. Its easier this way.


Are you guys using all the tail travel? Even I extend the length of the push rod I still left around 1.5mm when the tail slider goes to full right (the blade grip side)

In vbar setup I am on the extreme like maxed out all the tail servo travel. I wondered is that a geometry problem because I have a severe tail blowout when doing pitch pump
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Old May 28, 2015, 07:49 PM
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Replaced the stock canopy break away tabs with some Outrage G10 ones I found on clearance. I also installed some 32mm RJX threaded posts (these are used for various things in RJX airframes including the canopy posts). Later I will replace these with some 25mm aluminum standoffs I found on Hobbyking that more closely match the lenght of the originals.



I got this canopy from Helidirect during their memorial day sale for $16 plus $5 shipping. Strangely it didn't have the holes predrilled. If I had paid full price for it ($59) I would have been pissed about that.



I like the shape of the older V1 canopy better than the new one. I had to warm it up with a heat gun and spread out the bottom part where the battery tray goes in though or else the longer V2 battery tray will interfere. Once it was a few mm wider it fit perfectly.

I figured out a good way to get the holes even on both sides. Trace one of the "ears" then cut two copies and put a hole in the same place on both copies and then tape them to the canopy on each side before reaming the holes.
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Old May 31, 2015, 12:19 PM
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great heli, all setup and flying good for 20 flights now!!!! Very happy. Regarding the pin problem. I found out that there is a "notch" in the pulley to secure the pin in... So what I say is matching the belt pully hole with the pin is not enough... Once it is secured I tighten the collar and it seems the collar dont want to slide away anymore!
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Old Jun 03, 2015, 10:32 PM
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I modified the bearing layout in the tail grips so that the thrust bearing is in the middle. This required replacing the 7x10x0.4 washers that sit between the radial and thrust bearings with a pair of 5x7x0.2 washers (I didn't have any 5x7x0.4 laying around).

Interestingly with this arrangement I can fully tighten the nylock nuts without causing binding in the grips where with the stock arrangement I had to leave them backed off slightly.

With this arrangement there is much less lateral slop in the grips. It is vitally important to use shims that match the inside diameter of the radial bearing. The load must pass from the thrust bearing through the shim and center tube of the radial bearing to the washer and nut. In the standard arrangement the load passes through the outer tube of the radial bearing and shim to the thrust bearing and then to the washer and nut.

Original bearing arrangement:



New bearing arrangement:



Depending on tolerance you might also need a heat gun to get the radial bearing out of the grip as well. (mine don't but some might). A heat gun should be used on the grip prior to seating the lower thrust bearing washer. The washer with the larger hole goes on the inside. The upper washer (with the smaller hole) will just drop in because the outside diameter is slightly smaller as well. You should also ensure that the radial bearing is fully seated against the shims between it and the thrust bearing. It should just slide in but again depending on tolerance you might need to warm up the grip first.
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Old Jun 20, 2015, 09:47 PM
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What cause boom strike? I was running 2100rpm in my 600 and I had another boom strike.... I thought 2100rpm is pretty standard for doing tick toc....

I tighten the rotor spindle and everything seems okay? How many shims do you guys use? The damper shouldn't wear out because it was only around 20 flights from the last crash... Would it be too soft??

I found it cheaper to fix by ordering a new kit...

First electronics (BEC brownout), then the main shaft pin problem, causing first boom strike... Then motor wires had a cut causing it to act weirdly, then motor cut off during flip, then boom strike again!! I lose faith on large helis there is so many problem in it....

My 450 and 500 always in good conditions
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Old Jun 20, 2015, 11:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gabrielwong1991 View Post

First electronics (BEC brownout), then the main shaft pin problem, causing first boom strike... Then motor wires had a cut causing it to act weirdly, then motor cut off during flip, then boom strike again!! I lose faith on large helis there is so many problem in it.
Motor cut out during flip = loss of RPM which causes a boom strike.

I eventually decided I didn't like how low the head was on the 700, especially since I plan on running 1800rpm which is low for a DFC type head so I did this:



OMG Heli hub and blade grip arms, Align grips and spindle ($20 off Ebay), RJX .90 swash locker arms with Blade 700X plastic radius links (the RJX ones don't reach all the way to 90 degrees with how wide the hub is). 3x5x0.2 washers between the swash arm and hub yield a perfect 90 degree phase lag (there is plenty of room between the arm and the hub with the RJX arms so they will not scrape the hub)

I can't use the upper bolt hole on the hub and shaft because it's about 1/2mm off but with the clamp style hub and a good quality metric 12.9 bolt it should be fine. (I might borrow my brother's drill press and elongate the upper hole on the shaft by 1/2mm though.

If you need to mess around with E-clips this is a godsend:

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Old Jun 29, 2015, 03:56 PM
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I've changed my mind and decided to use these rebranded KST DS725MG's instead on cyclic. Going to be using the Promodeler rudder servo though.





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Old Jul 12, 2015, 10:34 PM
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Except for the receiver battery voltage meter than remains to be installed (it'll be situated next to the FBL unit) and some fine tuning of the tail it is now complete.







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Old Jul 13, 2015, 03:06 PM
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nice looking bird. you sure know your mods! you fixed problems before they even happened. when my kds 600 parts start to wear out, i might be referencing your build. thanks for sharing!
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Old Jul 19, 2015, 11:00 PM
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Just received the RJX bellcrank.

Compared to the stock plastic KDS bellcrank:



3x5x2mm washer is supposed to go on the bottom while the 3x5x3mm goes on top. Here I have replaced the stock 4.7mm ball with a 5mm KDS one. I had to grind the thread length down so it doesn't stick out the other side of the arm (I reused the one I had done previously). You could also just replace the plastic link on the pushrod with a 4.7mm one instead.



Installed on helicopter. With the stock washers 2mm of screw stuck out the other side of the support arm so I replaced the smaller 3x5x2mm one with the 3x5x0.5mm one from the original bellcrank and used a nylock nut on the other side of the support arm.

EDIT: I now recommend putting the 3x5x0.5 washer from the original bellcrank between the 3x5x3mm washer and the new bellcrank. The reason for this is that with only the 3x5x5 washer the plastic cup on the bellcrank arm is too close to the slider and can rub on in when a load is placed on the bellcrank arm. The washer is not really needed on the screw head anyway.
Updated this post with new information.
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