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Old May 04, 2014, 09:32 PM
Groovin', not fishin'
United States, CA, Twain Harte
Joined Feb 2014
383 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by train06 View Post
Steve be very careful installing the pin for the fly bar!
There is a small brass bushing the pin fits into, that then fits inside the rotor head.
I think there is a certain way that goes in where the two screws on each side fasten
To it to keep it from sliding out like mine did.
RODNEY
Rodney, will do! I am thinking of grinding a small "flat" into the side of the pin (where the set screw makes contact) and then using Loctite to keep the screw in place. I am also thinking of roughing up whatever surface binds either with the flybar or rotor head to provide additional securement of the pin.

Steve
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Old May 04, 2014, 09:41 PM
Groovin', not fishin'
United States, CA, Twain Harte
Joined Feb 2014
383 Posts
Well guys, I started my upgrade process today - - pulled the blades, flybar, stock rotor head, and motor. Then I worked on slightly modifying the motor mount with my Dremel tool to allow the larger pinion base (the 10T is tapered for the set screw) to protrude through. I wired up the ESC and made all the connections to allow for a quick test. Voila! so tomorrow, I'll pick up mounting screws for the motor (the ones from the stock motor are of too large a diameter) and some double-stick tape for the ESC and then finish the BL conversion. Then I'll tackle the rotor head, flybar, and blade assemblies using the new aluminum parts. I'll post pictures and a detailed explanation on my blog (Bassman 12350's blog) when I'm done.

Steve
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Old May 05, 2014, 12:35 AM
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United States, TX, Arlington
Joined Mar 2014
336 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by bassman12350 View Post
Rodney, will do! I am thinking of grinding a small "flat" into the side of the pin (where the set screw makes contact) and then using Loctite to keep the screw in place. I am also thinking of roughing up whatever surface binds either with the flybar or rotor head to provide additional securement of the pin.

Steve
That might be a good idea!
Right now my aluminum head sits in my parts bin, pretty much worthless to me,
Without the pin and brass bushing that was on it, and I'd have to buy a completely
New head to get the right pin and bushing for it!
From what I can tell, it seems the pin slides into that brass bushing that has these
Little open areas, that look as though they are supposed to line up with the two
Screws on either side of the head, and the screws then should make contact with the pin itself, thereby holding it in place. If I were you and going to put the flat spots in the pin, I would do that on both sides. I guess you could just go all the way around with a groove, but am not sure if the integrity of the strength of the pin would then be sacrificed. I would only cut say a slot in the pin only as wide as the screw, and just a bit in depth. That should do it then. I don't think roughing it up
A bit would help it much, if anything it might prove difficult to remove the pin in
The future in case you needed too. Because that pin does need to be free to move
In and out upon installation, and removal to get the fly bar off or on.
At least that's my thoughts on it. .
Rodney
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Old May 05, 2014, 12:42 AM
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United States, TX, Arlington
Joined Mar 2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bassman12350 View Post
Well guys, I started my upgrade process today - - pulled the blades, flybar, stock rotor head, and motor. Then I worked on slightly modifying the motor mount with my Dremel tool to allow the larger pinion base (the 10T is tapered for the set screw) to protrude through. I wired up the ESC and made all the connections to allow for a quick test. Voila! so tomorrow, I'll pick up mounting screws for the motor (the ones from the stock motor are of too large a diameter) and some double-stick tape for the ESC and then finish the BL conversion. Then I'll tackle the rotor head, flybar, and blade assemblies using the new aluminum parts. I'll post pictures and a detailed explanation on my blog (Bassman 12350's blog) when I'm done.


Steve
What kind of wire connectors did you use? And where did you wire what to where?
What are the dimensions of the screws to use?
Good deal on the BL Steve! Bet your chomping at the bit to get her in the air!
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Old May 05, 2014, 02:09 AM
Groovin', not fishin'
United States, CA, Twain Harte
Joined Feb 2014
383 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by train06 View Post
What kind of wire connectors did you use? And where did you wire what to where?
What are the dimensions of the screws to use?
Good deal on the BL Steve! Bet your chomping at the bit to get her in the air!
Hey Rodney, I'm not sure on the screws. I've got to take the motor with me to the hardware store tomorrow to size them. I know they are not longer than 1/4" though - - any longer and they'd contact and ruin the motor windings.

As for the connectors, I used standard E-flite "push-together" bullet connectors; 3.5mm. They are a bit large for the wires, but will work just fine. Better ones would be 2.0mm, but no one had them in stock. They come with heat shrink tubing for insulation, so I'll use that when I reassemble the bird. Wiring is straight forward - - the battery (power supply) wires for the ESC go directly to the same solder pads the main battery wires are soldered to (red to red, black to black). The PCB plug with wires from the ESC goes to the "THRO" (or throttle) connector on the PCB, with the white wire on the plug closest to the center of the PCB. Then the three wires from the ESC just plug into the three wires from the motor. If the motor turns in the wrong direction, all you have to do is just reverse connections of any two of the motor wires.

Steve
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Old May 05, 2014, 02:13 AM
Groovin', not fishin'
United States, CA, Twain Harte
Joined Feb 2014
383 Posts
I have posted the process and photos of the brushless conversion for the F45 main motor to my blog (bassman12350's blog). I used the Turnigy EH-200/4100kV brushless motor and the Turnigy Plush 25 amp ESC for the conversion. The blog post is a bit lengthy and hopefully, is correct. If anyone has any questions, please feel free to PM me or comment here or in the blog. I hope all this info helps!

Steve
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Last edited by bassman12350; May 05, 2014 at 02:13 AM. Reason: spelling. . .
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Old May 05, 2014, 12:29 PM
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Joined Dec 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbranch2480 View Post
here are some pics. Nothing special just washer spring mod/4800kv/super blades/dh9104 landing skids, blade grips, and canopy. oh and 2200 turnigy 20-30c...but there is something else....
Very good idea, I use it too. Cab from DH9104 is wider and higher. Lets put more additional components.. Attaching the blades of the DH9104 is much better than the factory from F45. In contrast, the size and shape of the blade DH9104 is the same as from MJX F45.
If you are using a brushless motor, I recommend this set of blades:
http://www.xtreme-production.com/xtr...oducts_id=1270
They have a more aggressive angle of attack and a much better job of seeding flights.
PS I forgot to add that the best fit with this part: http://www.xtreme-production.com/xtr...oducts_id=8415
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Old May 05, 2014, 02:32 PM
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United States, TX, Arlington
Joined Mar 2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom74 View Post
Very good idea, I use it too. Cab from DH9104 is wider and higher. Lets put more additional components.. Attaching the blades of the DH9104 is much better than the factory from F45. In contrast, the size and shape of the blade DH9104 is the same as from MJX F45.
If you are using a brushless motor, I recommend this set of blades:
http://www.xtreme-production.com/xtr...oducts_id=1270
They have a more aggressive angle of attack and a much better job of seeding flights.
PS I forgot to add that the best fit with this part: http://www.xtreme-production.com/xtr...oducts_id=8415
That spring washer mod....I had a problem with spring getting spiraled up under
The washer, do you use one or two washers? Is this a combo you came up with yourself? Or buy it off someone like I did?
Rodney
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Old May 05, 2014, 02:34 PM
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United States, TX, Arlington
Joined Mar 2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bassman12350 View Post
I have posted the process and photos of the brushless conversion for the F45 main motor to my blog (bassman12350's blog). I used the Turnigy EH-200/4100kV brushless motor and the Turnigy Plush 25 amp ESC for the conversion. The blog post is a bit lengthy and hopefully, is correct. If anyone has any questions, please feel free to PM me or comment here or in the blog. I hope all this info helps!

Steve
Hey Steve checked out your blog, gotta say it was great!
Very detailed and well written!
I'll use that to do mine with!
Thanks!
Rodney
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Old May 05, 2014, 04:39 PM
Groovin', not fishin'
United States, CA, Twain Harte
Joined Feb 2014
383 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by train06 View Post
Hey Steve checked out your blog, gotta say it was great!
Very detailed and well written!
I'll use that to do mine with!
Thanks!
Rodney
Rodney, you are so welcome! BTW, I finally located two screws with which to secure the motor to the motor tray in the upper frame. The screws appear to be 2M X 50 or 2.5M X 50 metrics, but each was a bit too long, so I used a cutoff wheel with my Dremel and shortened them to 1/4 ". I also needed to do just a bit more removal of material from the tray - - this time elongating the screw holes slightly toward the center hole, as the screw holes on the front of the motor frame are just a little closer together than those in the tray. I used a little blue Loctite on the screws. This holds them more tightly in place, but they can be loosened without application of heat and lots of torque; kinda nice when you're working with a motor!

Hopefully I'll have everything back together tonight!
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Old May 05, 2014, 04:52 PM
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Joined Mar 2009
131 Posts
Bassman, Hope your install comes out nice. When I did this same job on mine, I had to do pretty much the same thing. Now that I'm about to go to an 11 tooth pinion, I need some tiny washers so the motor will seat better and gear mesh can be set properly. Last time mine screamed until I adjusted the mesh looser. Plus with the new upgraded bearings, the new main gear and shaft should spin up nice and free of rusty bearings. Just take your time and then post some more pics for us all to see. I hope it flys great. Also, I have a 2200mah battery now and nose weight for balance so the higher head speed should help it I hope. Also, I want to do another spring mod attempt, the rubber band looks like crap. Enjoy, Scottheli
P.S. I'm using the Turnigy 18amp ESC. Do you think I should switch to a 25AMP ESC?????????????????????
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Last edited by scottheli; May 05, 2014 at 04:55 PM. Reason: forgot
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Old May 05, 2014, 05:13 PM
Groovin', not fishin'
United States, CA, Twain Harte
Joined Feb 2014
383 Posts
Scottheli, thanks! I think you'll be fine with the 18 amp ESC; it was just suggested that the 25 A one would give a little more "headroom" if the motor were to draw a bit more current.

Also, the 11 tooth pinion should work great. You'll have slightly less torque available at the rotor mast, due to the shorter ratio (12.73 : 1 instead of 14 : 1), but the motor should be able to handle the load without any problem, since it's got more torque to start with than the stock motor.

Is the 2000 / 2200 maH battery larger than the stock 1500 maH battery? Also, what spring mod are you speaking of? I've heard of it before, but I have no idea what it is supposed to do for the bird.

Thanks!

Steve
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Old May 05, 2014, 05:57 PM
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United States, TX, Arlington
Joined Mar 2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bassman12350 View Post
Scottheli, thanks! I think you'll be fine with the 18 amp ESC; it was just suggested that the 25 A one would give a little more "headroom" if the motor were to draw a bit more current.

Also, the 11 tooth pinion should work great. You'll have slightly less torque available at the rotor mast, due to the shorter ratio (12.73 : 1 instead of 14 : 1), but the motor should be able to handle the load without any problem, since it's got more torque to start with than the stock motor.

Is the 2000 / 2200 maH battery larger than the stock 1500 maH battery? Also, what spring mod are you speaking of? I've heard of it before, but I have no idea what it is supposed to do for the bird.

Thanks!

Steve
Hey Steve thanks for the screw info, not to step in on scotthelis
Answer about battery, but for mine I clipped the battery stops flush
Then rerouted the JST connector to right side, clipped forward
battery stop, then attached a strip of Velcro down where
Battery lays, then attached a piece to the batteries themselves.
But only on the forward end of the batteries.
To install or remove the battery I just bend down the tab with Velcro
On it and slide battery out. I also wrap a battery strap around the front
For extra security.
How did you do yours scottheli?
Rodney
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Old May 05, 2014, 08:25 PM
Registered User
United States, TX, Arlington
Joined Mar 2014
336 Posts
Well had it in my mind not to blow any more money on this F45,
And what do I do? Spend almost $30.00 bucks thanks to Scottheli, Steve, Tom74...
All this modding, and such hit my tinker spot in my brain, and here I go again!
Haha!
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Old May 05, 2014, 10:42 PM
Groovin', not fishin'
United States, CA, Twain Harte
Joined Feb 2014
383 Posts
I finished the BL main motor conversion this afternoon and then installed the upgraded main rotor mast assembly. Then I test-flew the F45 and was duly impressed. The power difference the EH-200/4100kV motor gives is amazing - - I had to dial back the throttle percentage setting from 90% to 50% or the heli would just "leap" into the air with any throttle at all. Head speed is a bit higher, but the tail rotor has enough authority to keep the bird pointed straight ahead at all power levels. I used the lighter flybar weights and this seems to make the heli much more responsive, with less danger of the weights contacting the tail boom in a hard landing. The aluminum rotor head seems to be a bit tighter in terms of fore/aft rotor tilt (elevator), so I increased that setting to 85% for a bit more control. All in all, I am very pleased with the outcome - - an already good fixed pitch heli is now even better!

Steve
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