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Old Apr 23, 2012, 11:35 AM
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tripleup05's Avatar
United States, GA, Grayson
Joined Mar 2008
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UM pushrods and horns

Hey fellas.

I have exhausted my supply of horns and carbon pushrods from my recycled ultra micros, so my question is, what do yall use for linkages on your homemade planes? I have some music wire that is small enough to fit through the AR6400/S2000L servo holes, but I don't have a Z bender that will make small enough bends. It is too sloppy (not to mention I am terrible at putting my bends at the right place).

I see that you can buy the pushrod sets from the UM's (http://www.horizonhobby.com/products...51-bnf-PKZ3680) but $8 seems pretty high! I can't find the link, but I also found parkzone control horns, but they are $4 per two!

What are you building magicians out there using?
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Old Apr 23, 2012, 11:45 AM
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USA, ID, Coeur D'Alene
Joined Dec 2003
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I bend the end of the wire into an L and then hold the short part sideways in the pliers, bend that part down and then twist it flat. Hard to describe but its on YouTube if you look around. Go to a fishing store for some Kevlar thread and wrap and CA to carbon rod.
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Old Apr 23, 2012, 11:55 AM
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Using brass instead of paino wire helps! It's springy and soft at the same time- Piano wire can be too stiff for it's own good.

I reuse my smaller CF segments for pushrods- Even if I have to latch two together with heatshrink and sticky glue (so it's cleanable and reusable).
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Old Apr 23, 2012, 12:16 PM
Gary
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USA, CT, Sandy Hook
Joined Dec 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by derk View Post
I bend the end of the wire into an L and then hold the short part sideways in the pliers, bend that part down and then twist it flat. Hard to describe but its on YouTube if you look around. Go to a fishing store for some Kevlar thread and wrap and CA to carbon rod.
I use the same technique.
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Old Apr 23, 2012, 12:16 PM
miataman
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Erie Pa.
Joined Oct 2007
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file down one side of needlenose pliers to the width of the z bend you want start at the end of a piece of 020 music wire, bend the end to a 90 the width of the pliers then grip the wire at the bend and bend the opposite direction 90 degrees. cut off the length you need. The 020 fits the 3rd hole in the servos. I use .8mm carbon rods from RC FOAM for the pushrods. on the servo ends I wrap the z bend part to the fiber rod with a fly tying winder then use ca on the thread to make an unbreakable joint. I dont want control rod pulling out of the shrinkwrap like horizon uses. I use the shrinkwrap on the control surface end of the pushrods for adjustment. 8mm pushrodr are slightly heavier but dont bend near as much as the originals. I use the very thin credit cards to cut control horns from. Just 3/16 wide straight pieces, nothing fancy, cut one end at a 45 angle and it just pushes through the foam where you want it. I have never had a control horn fail. Use a t pin or a pin drill to make holes in the control horn or if you want to go thru the trouble heat the pin and it will make the hole very easily. I make the pushrods approximate length attach at servo end, adjust for length, shrink heatshrink, then hotglue control horn in holding the proper alignment to get neutral throws in the control surfaces.
hope this helps. JCS I use plain old sewing thread no need for kevlar thread.
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Old Apr 23, 2012, 12:27 PM
TheyreComingToTakeMeAway!
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I have had sewing thread fail, but it was on landing gear for a slightly larger plane. The Kevlar is only $1.89 at cabellas so no biggie
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Old Apr 23, 2012, 03:45 PM
Hey y'all... watch this!
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Bellevue, WA
Joined Jan 2004
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I use CF rod with two bits of music wire. One bent in L shape, the other straight peice simply lays against the servo horn or the linkage and acts like a spring to keep the L wire in the hole.

This arrangement is better than a Z bend because you can take it off the control horn without disconnecting the horn, wire, servo, etc.

Pro tip - don't make the music wire too short. Make it long enough to get a fingernail in there so you can attach by hand (no tools).
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Last edited by Rex A Lott; Apr 23, 2012 at 03:48 PM. Reason: Better than Z
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Old Apr 23, 2012, 03:51 PM
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United States, GA, Grayson
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Thanks for all of the tips!

Great idea with the L shape, Derk. When you say " wrap and CA to carbon rod" I assume you mean the short carbon piece with the U bend in the middle and Z bend for the horn, right? I am have used/lost all but a piece or two or that. Is there a source for it other than buying a full pushrod set from Horizon?
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Old Apr 23, 2012, 06:41 PM
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Radio Shack ~ copper wire plastic coated - green coating $2.99 - very strong, will hold its shape to a certain stress level. That stress level happens to be just before the amount of force needed to strip the linear servo!

1) Cut piece of 1" green wire and hold flat against carbon pushrod. any scissors...
2) Twist wire around rod forming 4 friction loops.
3) Use toothpick to form solid connecting "U" for servo hole.
4) Slide wire into hole, tighten slop, 1/2 loop around pushrod.
5) Turn on brick set trim by moving entire wire setup along pushrod. Set with tiny drop of ca on original 4 friction loops
6) trim carbon rod after ca and trimming all else perfectly with the brick on and neutrally trimmed! No need for trim loops you already did that...

Beauty of this setup is now that its attached you can slide wire up and down rod to whatever length you need, after brick is on. Wont strip the brick, wont tear out horns! wire will give before either can happen - been my experience - I've not yet - dont go pulling... SUPER EASY to setup, maintain, disassemble no slop and forgiving... forgot too add its extremely lite setup.

You can cut clear plastic in shape of horn, hot needle a hole and hot glue in good to go. Hope this helps with carbon rods and wire you will never run out.

Use this for bricks not 415/5320 combo different ball game entirely
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Last edited by elvill; Apr 23, 2012 at 11:36 PM.
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Old Apr 23, 2012, 07:27 PM
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United States, GA, Centerville
Joined Mar 2012
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I just ordered these from HobbyZone:

DUB848 Control Horns, Micro

DUB849 EZ Link, Micro

I haven't used the Micro Links before, but I ordered then to see how they work. They are very inexpensive. I like the idea in the first reply too. That seems like a pretty easy quasi-clevis to make.out of a single piece of wire. Fold a wire in half with a small space between the two halves (a long narrow 'U'). Then bend one side, close to the end, 90 degress so that it lays on the opposite side. Attach the 'U' end of the wire to a CF push rod with shrink tubing and a drop of CA.

EDIT: I see Rex has the same thing with a picture. Only difference is the use of one wire bent in a 'U' instead of two separate wires.

The 'Z' bends to which many plans and assembly instructions allude are easy to make. The key to all this wire bending is having the right tools for the job. You would do well to vist a model train store if you have one in your area. There you will find all sorts of pliers used for bending small wire. In your collection of wire bending tools you should have needle nose, round nose, and flat nose pliers of a size appropriate for the wire. You should also have a hardened steel wire cutter. Music wire is hardened spring steel and will destroy normal side cutters (aka wire cutters) which, in this size are designed for soft steel florists wire of copper electronics wire.
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Last edited by RayRangel; Apr 23, 2012 at 10:43 PM. Reason: Update
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Old Apr 23, 2012, 08:42 PM
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There are some good Ideas in this thread! I'm only posting so I can find it again
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Old Apr 23, 2012, 09:08 PM
Mack
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Australia, VIC, Mentone
Joined Jun 2004
478 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete P View Post
Using brass instead of paino wire helps! It's springy and soft at the same time- Piano wire can be too stiff for it's own good.

I reuse my smaller CF segments for pushrods- Even if I have to latch two together with heatshrink and sticky glue (so it's cleanable and reusable).
Very true. You need wire that is stiff but not springy. I have used wire from small paper clips on "larger" micros and finer bendable wire ( a coil from our local Chinese trade store) on UMs. The wire is attached to a CF rod with heat shrink and glued. Good tip about joining off-cuts of CF to make the rods. Thanks.
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Old Apr 23, 2012, 09:14 PM
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United States, CO, Colorado Springs
Joined Jan 2008
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I like the Dubro adjustable link things but think they're too heavy for serious micro stuff. Great for parkfliers though!

Look up the figure-4 attachment method, we've got plenty of examples here on RCG, someone alluded to it above.

Glenn

Doh! Rex beat me to it - see post #7 above
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Last edited by glenn2626; Apr 23, 2012 at 09:16 PM. Reason: Oops, couldn't see from work that Rex had pix - see post #7 above.
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Old Apr 23, 2012, 10:49 PM
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United States, GA, Centerville
Joined Mar 2012
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Yeah, I'm afraid they might be too heavy. But, since they were so cheap I thought I check them out. They might be too clunky for small micros, but larger models might make use of them. I will have to see when I get them.
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Old Apr 23, 2012, 11:01 PM
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United States, CO, Colorado Springs
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Boing! Just jogged my brain - anyone remember the figure-4 leg lock?

Click here if you don't remember the (not so) great old days of pro wrestling:

How to Apply the Figure Four Leg Lock (1 min 2 sec)


Sorry for the diversion - just thought it was funny that it popped into my mind
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