|Wing Area:||297 sq. in.|
|Wing Loading:||8.2 oz/sq. ft.|
|Servos:||2 GWS Pico Nano servos ailerons, 2 Cirrus micro servos ele/rud|
|Battery:||2 & 3-cell Lipo Thunder power|
|Motor:||Motrolfly BM 2210 1080KV Brushless motor|
|ESC:||Motrolfly FM-20A brushless ESC|
|Propeller:||9 x 4.7 included in kit|
|Plane Manufacturer:||Green Models|
|Available From:||Maxford USA|
|Available From:||Motrolfly USA|
|Price:||Motor $35.95, ESC $ 25.95 combo purchase -10%|
When my friend Dick Andersen purchased the transparent version of Green Model USA's Curtis Jenny I gave it a close second look. It came with the rigging already installed and looked like it could be quickly finished. Having started in this hobby with gliders with transparent covering, I love being able to see into and through this little plane. (The plane is also available in a traditional solid yellow color in addition to the transparent orange that Dick and I bought.)
Dick bought a combo kit with an included motor and ESC, but I bought just the kit as I preferred to go with a Motrolfly brushless motor and ESC. I contacted Motrolfly USA and obtained their BM 2210, 1080 KV brushless outrunner motor paired with their FM-20A ESC for brushless motors. I have been impressed by their quality motors and controllers.
Additional Parts Needed:
After removing the wings from the plastic bag protecting them, I glued the aileron control arms to the ailerons with thick CA glue. I extended the wings to their normal flight position by rotating the top wing up around the spars to get the wings into their proper position. I centered my aileron servo control arms in preparation of mounting the servos into the wings. I next plugged the left aileron servo's wire into the 6" aileron extension wire and mounted the servo onto the left aileron hatch door on the bottom left side of the upper wing which was hidden under the large decal on the top of the upper wing surface. I tied the string to the aileron extension wire and pulled the string through the wing and out the center to snake the wire to the center and out of the bottom of the top wing. I repeated the process with the right aileron servo and set the wings aside for later attachment to the fuselage.
The fuselage is already built and covered and includes a hatch with a spring latch over the battery mounting area. I installed two Cirrus micro servos like the rudder and elevator servos as shown in the instruction pictures.
The controls for rudder and elevator are pull/pull systems. They have the strings/threads connected to four leads (two for elevator and two for rudder) that I attached to the outer holes on both sides of the servo arms. There are four strings/threads for the elevator servo (two per side) and two for the rudder servo (one per side). The critical adjustments on these controls are to be made at the actual attachment of the strings/threads to the elevator and rudder control arms after those surfaces are attached. The strings/threads are already installed through the fuselage and attached to leads that clip directly onto the servos’ arms.
Done with the servos for the moment, I attached my Motrolfly motor to one of two motor mounts supplied with the kit. I needed longer metric bolts than supplied with the motor to mount the motor directly to the motor mount firewall, and I got these bolts at my local Orchard Supply Hardware. With the motor securely fastened to the mount, I fit the mount into slots in the firewall and secured it with the supplied screws per the instructions. I added some thick CA to the motor mount/firewall connection. With the motor mounted and the glue dry, I slid the Motrolfly ESC into the fuselage via the front cockpit with the motor wires extending out a hole in the top of the firewall. I attached the Motrolfly controller's three wires to the motor's three wires. After checking the motor run direction, I stuffed the extra wire back into the fuselage.
Motrolfly USA DM2210
|Non Load Current:||1.6m Amps|
|Prop Range:||6x6 to 9x4.7|
|Maximum Burst Current:||20A|
Attaching the tail was very easy. I fit the two wooden tongues at the bottom of the vertical stabilizer through the slots in the horizontal stabilizer and then inserted the combination into slots in the top rear of the fuselage. I punctured holes in the fuselage covering where two small bolts go through one side of the fuselage, through two holes in wood near the center of the fuselage, then the wood tongues extending down from the vertical stabilizer, through a second piece of wood in the fuselage and then out the other side of the fuselage. The bolts with two supplied nuts and washers secured both stabilizers in their proper position. This felt nice and secure, and I added a drop of Loctite to make sure the nuts wouldn't work loose. I had considered gluing the bottom of the horizontal stabilizer to the fuselage but decided that would not be necessary.
I finished the connection of the pull/pull system to the control surfaces with the supplied leads and springs to the already installed stings (see below pictures).
I decided to use a Berg 4L receiver and shortened the antenna by installing an Azarr antenna. I cut the original antenna 4 inches out from the receiver and stripped about 1/4" of covering off the end of the wire. I soldered on the short Azarr antenna and then sealed it with the supplied shrink tubing. This allows my beautiful Jenny to have full range without an unsightly antenna showing outside of the fuselage. I am a big fan of both of these products, and they get my highest recommendation. Azarr antennas are great with Park Flyers and have been tested by Castle Creations to have no loss of range with their Berg receivers in this application.
I installed the receiver into the fuselage. There is a Velcro strap to secure it horizontally, but it fit perfectly in a vertical position so I did it "My Way." I had a 3" Y connector attached to the aileron channel. I ran the Y connector up through the front cockpit for later connection to the aileron servos.
I connected the pull/pull control strings to the proper control surfaces arms, and I did so as shown in the picture. The control strings, when properly positioned, were secured with CA - one string each side to the top of the elevator, one to the bottom and one each side of the rudder. I test operated these controls and no adjustment was necessary.
I slid the two wings onto the fuselage from the front and mounted them to the fuselage with the supplied plastic bolts for the bottom of the fuselage connection and the small bolts for connecting the wing to the Cabane struts mounted on the fuselage. The two aileron servo wires went into the fuselage via the front cockpit and plugged into the Y connector previously inserted in the receiver. I deviated from the recommended installation at this point in connecting the control rods between the servos and the ailerons. I added a micro E-Z connector to the aileron control arms to allow for easy adjustment to center the ailerons as necessary. A Z-bend was used on the control rod for attachment to the servo arm.
I attached the landing gear carriage to the fuselage with the supplied hardware and added the wheels as well. I also added the supplied 9 x 4.7 propeller to the motor after coloring it with a brown Sharpie. I installed a fully charged 3-cell Common Sense Lipoly 1100 mAh battery into the fuselage.
Throws (Measured at trailing edge)
Center of Gravity: 1 3/8 from the leading edge of the top wing
First flight was not until the day after I got back from Arizona. I opted to leave the plane at home and avoid any travel rash. It flew beautifully from the start with no trim adjustment needed. The plane looked good even on a cloudy day. I couldn't wait for a nice day and the chance to shoot some pictures of her in the air.
With a 2-cell Lipoly pack (with weight for ballast to maintain proper CG) the flight characteristics and speed were very scale like. Climb was limited and loops required a slight entry dive. The plane fell off slightly during an aileron roll that was best performed during the start of a slight climb. There was good control and authentic scale flying characteristics. The all up weight with ballast in the nose was 17 ounces using a 2 cell 800mAh pack.
I switched to a 3-cell Lipoly and opened the throttle up, and I had a rather powerful flyer that penetrated wind and did loops and rolls from level flight. Its tail slides were very nice, and slightly rolling turns in a dive looked terrific. All up weight with 3 cell 1100mAh pack was 19.2 ounces with no added weight.
Landings can be done nice and slow with power slightly on or off and just a slight flare at touch down. Roll outs were very short.
Takeoffs on a 2-cell required some roll and often a little rudder to keep the plane tracking straight. They were easy to perform, and by holding the plane down longer than was necessary, they could be made to look like scale takeoffs. Using the 3-cell Lipoly, I could get the plane to jump into the air after a few feet or holding down the throttle could make a scale take off. All my takeoffs were from pavement or hard dirt. With the small wheels I would expect a nose over on tall grass landing and possibly taking off.
Powered with a 3-cell Lipoly, it can fly most standard aerobatic maneuvers but not 3D. I did accidentally hover on one occasion, but most of my flying has been doing maneuvers from World War I. To my eye this Jenny looks best when only flown a little on the wild side. I have other planes that look better flipping over the sky.
While its flight characteristics are appropriate for a beginner plane on 2-cells it would be a better second plane and beyond and also a good aileron trainer.
The Motrolfly combination has proven to be an excellent one, and I strongly recommend the Motrolfly power system I used with this plane or any plane of similar size.
I think this little plane looks fantastic, and with all the visible rigging and the pull/pull controls for the rudder and elevator it looks like it was far more complex to assemble then it actually was. I have started receiving compliments on this plane's appearance. At the flying field and park "BIG" normally grabs most of the attention but this little charmer has people picking her up to look at her more closely.
I can't wait for Dick to get his finished so we can fly them in tandem. This plane pleases both pilot and spectators. It also draws a lot of attention on static display.
|Mar 05, 2008, 08:41 PM|
Nice job, Mike — the plane looks great, and it looks like the Motorfly system pairs well.
Between your plane and your friend's, it looks like you two are nicely set up for some good ol' fashioned dogfights.
|Mar 05, 2008, 09:24 PM|
Thanks for a great review!! I just picked one of these up at the WRAM and am in the process or sorting out the electronics. I'm going to put the Spektrum AR6300 system in mine and was thinking about the Torque 22/930. After this I'll give your power system serious consideration. It's a bit lighter and on 3S it looks like it flies great!!
|Mar 06, 2008, 12:52 AM|
I came by this plane, and am so very unimpressed with it, which is a shame because when I first opened the box it's very impressive to behold. The only good thing I can say about it so far is that it's built like a brick chicken house, and has survived all the spins into the deck that it's done on me. It's heavy, needs a lot of ballast even with a big pack up the front, and to date it really only wants to play in dead calm weather. It so far wants to snap on me at any chance it gets... next up for me to try is differential ailerons and permanently coupling the rudder.
Mike didn't mention tightening the covering... if you want to tighten the covering, don't. The covering is the heavy kind that needs a pile of heat to shrink... so hot that it will blow away the pretty flying wires, and also make the pre-installed pull-pull system useless as it will destroy the nylon.
I had a heat gun and wanted to make the bird all that much nicer by having nice taught covering, so I set about fixing it up. Big mistake. If you can't apply enough heat with an iron (so that the blowing air kind of heat can't effect the pull-pull or flying wires), don't even bother. Or... make sure that the covering is nice and tight at the hobby store before you shell out for it. The up-side to having to redo the pull-pull is that I got to replace it with nicer kevlar thread.
I also found that there was far too much side thrust (I used the box mount supplied for firewall mounted motors)... I took most of it out and it improved it by a large degree. Until I did that it was wanting to snap into the extra side thrust.
I hope I just got a bad one. For a novice to sort out the problems I've had would be a challenge to say the least. Or... hopefully the one I got was sitting around for a long time and there have since been large corrections to the airframe. Anyways, "meh" is about as excited as I can get over this beasitie.
|Mar 06, 2008, 03:21 PM|
Hello the KM:
Are we both talking about the 38" version? I note that my lower wing fits in a square box on the bottom of the fuselage and there was an older design with a sloped front in front of the bottom wing (As shown on the picture instruction page.). I have added no ballast and have a slight bit of up elevator for basically level powered flight. I will try a little tail weight to balance my plane. Only torque problem is on a full throttle take off where a push of momentary right rudder or aileron has straightened out the plane.
I have to admit I haven't had to try and shrink the covering as mine as been good and remains good so far. I have flown in wind once with a three cell lipoly and had no problem and my model has shown no bad habits in flight. I have to admit that the Motrolfly power system works great with this plane. The right power system can make a huge difference. Mike
|Mar 06, 2008, 06:39 PM|
|Mar 06, 2008, 07:11 PM|
I found this model in a hobby shop in Dayton last year and when I opened the box I had to have it. It came with everything except rx, tx, servos and battery. It's the newer version. I had to disconnect the wire (fishing line) struts to get the wings on. No biggie. And also needed some glue between the horizotal stab and the fuse. Again, no biggie.
When I finished mine I hand launched with a 3 cell lipo because the grass was tall. The Jenny flew like a dream right from the start. I love this plane also.
Nice reveiw and video.
|Mar 06, 2008, 08:01 PM|
Joined Mar 2007
got one of thees this year at Iowa City Ia swap meat
went with the motor an ESC included have not done any thing
but opened the box its the newer one finish looks tight
but always wonted a by plain thank you for this review
please let us know how the stock set up works
will be looking for more info keep it coming
|Mar 10, 2008, 08:12 AM|
The new 50 inch version In two colors will handle the wind quite well. And the bigger 105 inch will almost let you ride in it;-)
|Jul 27, 2008, 08:59 AM|
Finally maidened my Jenny
While there hasn't been much more activity on this thread, I thought I'd mention that I finally had the chance to finish and maiden my 38 inch Jenny. My setup looks like this:
CC Pheonix 25
Spektrum AR6300 system including digital servos.
TP Prolite 2S 1320
APC 7x6 SF prop
With this setup the plane balanced perfectly without any changes. I used the above recommended control throws for all but the elevator. I used 1 inch up but about a quarter inch down (which was plenty). I added a little expo to the ailerons as well just because I was nervous.
Two additional changes were in the wheels and propeller. I didnt like the stock wheels and opted for a set of narrow plastic spoked wheels from Max Products. There are the same diameter but are a little better looking. I'd love to find some "wire" wheels for it. After installing the gear and mounting the prop I decided to change out the 9x3 that comes with the kit for a 7x6SF. The 9x3 is so big that there isn't much clearance on takeoff if you let the tail come up. The 7x6 makes plenty of thrust for this plane (it really doesn't take much) and looks better too.
My maiden went without a hitch. Conditions were a little breezy and this plane is very sensitive to the wind as you might expect. I ended up removing the 20% of expo I had on the ailerons and liked it much better. The airplane took no trim for level flight and was a bit faster than I thought it would be. It looks absolutely fantastic in the air and is a lot of fun to fly. I had some 3S 910 TP's with me to try, but for me, this airplane with the DM2210 just doesn't need it. The TP 2S 1320 was perfect. Landings take a little attention because of the small wheels but I was able to put it down on VERY short and dry grass.
For some last notes - I have the newer version of this model with the small wing saddle. It's a fun plane and it flies and looks great. Lastly - the AR6300 system was an experiment for me. I was initially concerned about range issues but it has worked out extremely well so far. I have e flown the Jenny out to where it got very small (remember this is a pretty small plane to start with) and had no radio issues whatsoever.
Well good luck to all. Fair weather and happy flights.
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