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Old Oct 11, 2012, 12:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Waffleman View Post

I have a 30 year old K&B 61 that is almost brand new, and It is going to stay on the stand until it starts running the way it is supposed to. That is just the way I do things.
Is this a good thing or a bad thing?

A modern RC engine with an ABC or ABN liner set a tad rich (not "ringed" liner rich) does best in the air.

If I were still wrestling with an engine on the test stand for 30 years I would smash it with a hammer or pick another hobby. Just saying.

Kurt
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Old Oct 11, 2012, 07:51 PM
The Luftwaffle
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United States, FL, DeLand
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Good, I guess. I got the engine from a buddy who ran it once about a year go, and that is all. It really is a brand new engine. It runs great in the air, but quits every time. If it stops quitting I might put it on a plane.
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Old Oct 12, 2012, 02:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Waffleman View Post
Good, I guess. I got the engine from a buddy who ran it once about a year go, and that is all. It really is a brand new engine. It runs great in the air, but quits every time. If it stops quitting I might put it on a plane.
Waffleman,

1) If it's not on a plane, but getting airborne and quitting, you aren't throwing it hard enough.

2) If it "runs great in the air, but quits every time", then it doesn't run great in the air...or

3) You aren't putting enough fuel in the tank.


Kurt
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Old Oct 12, 2012, 07:58 AM
The Luftwaffle
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United States, FL, DeLand
Joined Sep 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kbozarth View Post
Waffleman,

1) If it's not on a plane, but getting airborne and quitting, you aren't throwing it hard enough.

2) If it "runs great in the air, but quits every time", then it doesn't run great in the air...or

3) You aren't putting enough fuel in the tank.


Kurt
hahaha
I had it on a plane, and when it was running, it sounded good and was hauling a$$. Then it would quit. And it still had fuel in the tank.
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Old Oct 12, 2012, 09:36 AM
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It may be getting bubbles/foam in the fuel line. Verify inside the fuel tank that the pressure line does not exhaust under the fuel level, but directed to the top of the tank. Verify the clunk is operating correctly, also they do sell scintered brass clunks that supposedly reduces foam in fuel lines (they look like something you would see in a fish tank).
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Old Oct 19, 2012, 11:18 AM
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United States, CA, Hidden Valley Lake
Joined Aug 2002
48 Posts
Here are pictures of the test stand I just made.
I use a radio to control it so I can reduce to the same idle each time.
I prefer testing and doing initial break-in on the ground to make sure
everything is running correctly prior to putting in the air.
This is designed to mount to my B&D Shop Mate.

Here is the link to the basic stand:
http://www.modelshops.org/model-engi...test-stand.php

Good Luck,
KW_Counter
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Old Oct 20, 2012, 02:44 AM
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Australia, SA, Adelaide
Joined Sep 2007
632 Posts
Howdy KW I have one of those alum. mounts and its the best $20 Ive spent . just a thought one of those cheap H.K. servo testors would work ok instead of dragging out your radio each time and getting slimey stuff onit . I have thought of doing this myself but you know how that goes . Anyway good stuff . Cheers the pope
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Old Oct 20, 2012, 10:57 PM
Grumpa Tom
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United States, CA, Los Angeles
Joined Sep 2003
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I use a PSP Mfg. test stand unit and have it mounted to a frame made from 2x4's.
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Old Oct 21, 2012, 02:20 AM
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I was looking at one of those mounts . They look the ducks guts but shipping $ to Aus. was redonkulas . Cheers the pope
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Old Oct 21, 2012, 09:49 AM
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United States, CA, Hidden Valley Lake
Joined Aug 2002
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Pope,

Even with shipping to the US it was a little less the the PSP,
my second choice. Is shipping to Oz that much more or are you
getting hit with exchange rate issues?

KW_Counter
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Old Oct 21, 2012, 07:33 PM
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Howdy KW the exchange rate is ok but the shipping was like $50 on a $100 item thats not even that big . To much for this little black duck . Im more than happy with the mount like yours and I have a aluminum plate to mount it on and by the time im finished with it it will look pretty smart . I like that ! I plan on mounting the alu. plate to a removeble post that can be slid into a short bit of tubing concreted into the ground . I will then cover that when not in use with a box like the irrigators use to cover solinoids etc , thats the plan anyway . Will get around to it one day . Cheers the pope
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Old Oct 31, 2012, 02:19 PM
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United States, IL, Champaign
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I found a couple of interesting designs on videos.
FG-57T test run part 1 (0 min 47 sec)


and

57ccm Flat Twin Gasoline Engine 1 (3 min 29 sec)
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Old Oct 31, 2012, 02:55 PM
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United States, MD, Elkton
Joined Oct 2011
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I have a lot of test stands for my engines-A Piper Cub,a Fairchild,a Stinger,....

Could be your tuning needs some adjustment...

I've never been able to make a K&B .61 run badly.New fuel,new glow plug,lean out,then 3 clicks rich,and stand back.

If you made it back all the times it quit,you should be 'way confident now....'course if the engine's still running when you try to land,then you'll have to learn how to do that....

Try to be sure your test set-up is matched to the model as much as possible-tank height,distance to carb needle valve from the front of the tank,pressure lines,etc. Don't forget cowlings can affect the engines' running also.
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Old Oct 31, 2012, 08:57 PM
The Luftwaffle
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United States, FL, DeLand
Joined Sep 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by epoxyearl View Post
I have a lot of test stands for my engines-A Piper Cub,a Fairchild,a Stinger,....

Could be your tuning needs some adjustment...

I've never been able to make a K&B .61 run badly.New fuel,new glow plug,lean out,then 3 clicks rich,and stand back.

If you made it back all the times it quit,you should be 'way confident now....'course if the engine's still running when you try to land,then you'll have to learn how to do that....

Try to be sure your test set-up is matched to the model as much as possible-tank height,distance to carb needle valve from the front of the tank,pressure lines,etc. Don't forget cowlings can affect the engines' running also.
Well, tank height might have something to do with it - its hard enought to fit a tank intended for .60 size engines into the front of a 40 size stick in the first place, and thats forgetting alignment to carb.
Being that it is a stick, there is no cowling.
Its also good to remember that my paarticular specimen has been sitting since, oh, sometime around the late '70s and was run for the first itme a couple of years ago, and then put into storage for another year before I got it.
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