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I take it you are an EE of some kind?
edit June 09: oops, this is star -> delta, not delta -> star The former Star-point connections are the Starts, the former battery-connectors are the Ends: E1 connects to S2 E2 connects to S3 E3 connects to S1 You can play a bit with Delta/Wye using the winding diagram calculator, graphical output and you'll see the changes: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...ght=calculator Otherwise trial and error with an oscilloscope until you get 120degrees phase difference. Vriendelijke groeten Ron• diy motor group • RC flight club • • Drive Calculator • diy motor tips • |
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Haha, nope, does a Biologist count?
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Let's not open that can of worms, shall we?
I can hardly handle having a resident geologist in this subforum.Alas, no I described changing from wye to delta, whilst you want to change from delta to wye. But I think you get the gist, even though you're not an EE, just reverse my instructions.Vriendelijke groeten Ron• diy motor group • RC flight club • • Drive Calculator • diy motor tips • |
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ROTFLI swear, EE's first class in college is "Intro to Life Science and why they aren't really scientists". My father in law is a retired US Navy R&D EE, and I get the same jokes from him. He like to joke with me how biologists are biologists because they are only good at memorization. Engineering is a thinkin' man's profession. So I tell him without me, he wouldn't know what genus and species of bird his widget just killed. Haha, good times.Fortunately for me, he helps me quite a bit in the area of circuits. Quote:
I gotta borrow an oscilloscope from the lab downstairs and get on that. It helps I work with a bunch of engineers, but they are mostly structural, chemical and environmental. I'll say one thing about engineers, they have the best toys! |
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USA, ME, Ellsworth
Joined May 2008
13,865 Posts
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You have six bundle ends on the 12 arm stator so it is a DLRK wind.
The six ends are gathered and joined as three pairs. And, of course, there is no Wye bundle. Delta System (what you have now) Point 1: Solder S1 and E3 together Point 2: Solder S2 and E1 together Point 3: Solder S3 and E2 together Note: Point 1, Point 2 and Point 3 are connected to Electronic Speed Control (ESC) To change that to the star or Wye system: Star (Wye) System Solder E1, E2, E3 together Note: S1, S2 and S3 are connected to ESC. Just to make sure we are reading from the same sheet of music, you can look at this kit motor assemblhy instruction manual: http://www.micronradiocontrol.co.uk/.../KH-257D-1.pdf And see exactly how the phases were wound and how they are terminated. The stator arms are arbitrarily numbered 1 through 12 in the instructions and you can see the which arm number each phase starts on and ends on. So if you separate your three pairs into six separate ends and use an Ohm meter you can check to make sure where the starts and ends are. The attached image shows how I think you will find the motor to be wound but, of course, it may be different and this might not work for your. But if it is the same then it is just a case of joining the three "End" ends together to make the Wye bundle and putting the ESC connectors on the three remaining "Start" ends. Jack |
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Original ElektroModell LRK articles, translated into English http://www.aerodesign.de/peter/ -> LRK English -> 4 EM 2000 articels at bottom of page Vriendelijke groeten Ron• diy motor group • RC flight club • • Drive Calculator • diy motor tips • |
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Following picture is for my reference. Testing the motor out tonight. Looks like this is going to be a simple as it gets.
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USA, ME, Ellsworth
Joined May 2008
13,865 Posts
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Good for you, looking forward to hearing how that goes.
If you look at the different winding schemes for a 12 arm motor here: http://forumrc.alexba.eu/nutpol_e.htm The colors on that chart rank the different winds by how well they work, the key is: "..black- does not work, blue - good combination, white - it works, red - it works, but not very well..." So you'll have the red "it works, but not very well" wind. If you want to mess with the motor more to make it even better, you'll still have the option of going to 16 or 14 magnets and getting to the better winds. If you like the lower Kv motor better, you can even get more power out of it by going to 16 magnets later. That will be more work though... Jack |
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In fact, winding diagram does not matter, only the Start and End of a phase wire. What 'happens' between Start and End is not relevant for star versus wye.
Jack, that table is also available on Ralp Okon's diy motor building site translate...www.powercroco.de -> Construction -> Combination chart. Prettig weekend Ron• diy motor group • RC flight club • • Drive Calculator • diy motor tips • -> |
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Alright, conversion went relatively smooth. I decided to just chance my esc and guess at the correct combination. I was relatively simple as there really are only 2 ways to separate the wires. Problem though, maybe you guys can help me decipher the following information.
Unfortunately I do not have a solid state adjustable power supply. I will get one eventually, but my batteries will have to do for now. I also replaced the bearings with semi ceramics. I took two measurements of the new KV. V= 11.43 Io= 1.68V RPM= 5400 V= 15.16 Io= 1.8 RPM=7150 I am seeing about 472kv and relatively the same Io, which seems wrong to me. That means the difference in KV factor is 1.92, and I was expecting about 520kv. I would expect the bearing change to help rpms and lower Io. Did I screw something up? Is it possible this is an esc issue? Maybe wrong timing? Thoughts? |
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