It was surprisingly a tad tail heavy even with the 3S 2200 all the way at the nose.

That inrunner weighs nearly 100g, almost twice as much as the typical 150watt outrunner class motor they ship with the plane. I expect the carbon fiber rod and tape on the tail contribute to the balance issue also.

Just my observation....

Originally Posted by garymcc

That inrunner weighs nearly 100g, almost twice as much as the typical 150watt outrunner class motor they ship with the plane. I expect the carbon fiber rod and tape on the tail contribute to the balance issue also.

Just my observation....

Hmm, I used the same setup with that 91 (not 100 gram) inrunner and the 3S 30C 2200 lipo and the lipo is NOT stuck up in the nose and the CG is fine.

Originally Posted by Bob A

Wow AJ---4098 posts on here and you finally missed one! You're right that i'm likely to do things bassackward, but my logic in this case was to line up brown wires with brown wires in the connectors! Should I still go through the procedure you suggested when I get a chance to mess with it this afternoon?

Bob

The last procedure with the pictures, yes.
AJ

Originally Posted by ajbaker

Ok. We are just about done. Here is the problem -> Remember how I pointed out that ALL your servos were plugged in backwards? Well, both of your aileron servos are plugged in backwards now. Disconnect the servos at the servo end and turn the plugs around. [See note below first] If not, get that "Y" cable from 2500GENE. That is the only other possibility. Still, though, it almost has to be the servos plugged in backwards because I have never ever seen a bad "Y" cable in the last 30 years (other than the ones that I broke for whatever reason). So, it is hard for me to believe that you are the first person that I have ever heard of that got a bad "Y" cable on a brand new plane. But, it IS possible, for sure. Let me know. If you want a quickee workaround, just reverse the single aileron plug at the receiver end after disconnecting the battery. Then, turn on the transmitter (if it isn't on already) - hook up the battery to the ESC and give it a try. I am keeping my fingers crossed on this one.
AJ
Oops. One other thing just to make sure there is not a short in one of the servos. Please disconnect BOTH aileron servos from the "Y" plug. Now, reverse the plug on just ONE of them and plug IT into the "Y" cable. The other side of the "Y" cable should have nothing plugged into it at this time.

AJ-- I did as you suggest with the "y" cable plugged into the receiver--first with the connector from one aileron plugged in then with the other aileron connector plugged in to the same leg of the "y". I then did the same thing using the other leg of the "y". (a total of 4 times if that makes any sense).

The aileron servos moved as they should all 4 times so I connected both aileron servos to the "Y" and connected the "y" cable to the receiver and ALL 4 SERVOS AND THE MOTOR OPERATE!!! i don't think I hooked up anything different than I had before--only thing I can think of is that maybe when I hooked up connectors they were not making contact-(I know that at first the connections were really tight and hard to connect and disconnect.)

At any rate I am really sorry I wasted so much of your time as well as the others who were kind enough to help me. Without all of you I would still be as discouraged as I was early on.

(Inadequate Thank yous to all of you)

Bob

Originally Posted by Prof100

GoPopp,

I don't know of a "save" button but you can subscribe to any thread by either posting in it or you subscribe by clicking on thread tools and "subscribing".

Bill

Thanks Bill that got me understanding a bit better

Gregor

Originally Posted by Bob A

The aileron servos moved as they should all 4 times so I connected both aileron servos to the "Y" and connected the "y" cable to the receiver and ALL 4 SERVOS AND THE MOTOR OPERATE!!!

Congratulations. I knew you could do it! The secret is not giving up. Well done.
AJ

Originally Posted by kman24

Hey Bob, to check your Y cable, just take a multimeter and buzz out all the wires end to end. If you get a buzz on each wire, then your Y cable isn't the issue. If you don't, then you definitely have a continuity issue on one of the wires.

I live 2-1/2 hours from Des Moines too, but probably not the same direction as you. But, if you are close to the Omaha area, give me a shout and maybe I can help you out in person.

KMan

In the throes of my confusion, I don't think I have thanked you for your generous offer to help. It was (and is) much appreciated.

You are right, I live in SE Iowa, twice as far from you as Des Moines.

Bob

Originally Posted by 2500GENE

I'll give you $13.27 for it
.
Check this place out for stuff. Good prices, 2 buck shipping and you will have it in 3-4 days.
http://www.headsuprc.com/servlet/the...ess/Categories

Thes servos cost a bit more but are less susceptible to stray RF noise. (less chance of chatter)
http://www.headsuprc.com/servlet/the...sh---8g/Detail

Some don't care for this servo. I have a few and they work fine for me.
http://www.headsuprc.com/servlet/the...sh---9g/Detail

Considering your servos are internal and you need to split the fuse to access them you may want to consider metal gear servos. This way the chance of stripping a gear is almost impossible especially if you like to land hard and fast like aj. I have 2 of these in one of my EZs though noise suppression isn't that great, comparable to the SG90.
http://www.headsuprc.com/servlet/the...-14g-TP/Detail

Stay away from the SG90E for 3.95. They are probably worse quality then you have now.

Your fuse is probaly held together with double sided tape. I don't have the new RTF version but it's common with China planes. You can slice the seam with a sharp exacto knife to gain access.

ps, I have a few y cables laying around and if you want leave me a pm and I'll shoot one out to you if you'd like to try that first.

Q

Your $13.27 was timed a couple of days too late or we may have had a deal!

Special thanks to you for your offer to send me a "y" cable-(turns out I don't need a new one-just needed to learn how to put a rectangular peg in a rectangular hole I think)

Bob

I've blown 3 servos on my first SS the one's that come as standard did not last very many flights maybe 20 at most. 2 failed electronically ailerons and mechanicly elevator.
I did have some major stacks. Nose first into the ground and also slammed into the side of my ute at full speed, would have shaken things up a little.
I will be trying HK939MG metal geared on my new build. Will report on how they go. Anyone tried these?

Originally Posted by garymcc

That inrunner weighs nearly 100g, almost twice as much as the typical 150watt outrunner class motor they ship with the plane. I expect the carbon fiber rod and tape on the tail contribute to the balance issue also.

Just my observation....

After 4 flights today at a "Fun Fly" I found that I like it a little tail heavy. My Hotliner is setup tail heavy to my liking as well.

Guys were laughing at me swapping flights between the Sky Surfer and my 125mph Flash Hotliner. Lots of folks were asking about the sky surfer. They could see it flew very well. The 5 ft. off the ground inverted passes didn't hurt the advertising either.

With the BEVRC v2 it appears the control rod tubes are installed internally in the fuselage. Is it possible to glue the full length of these tubes to the fuselage and use them to stiffen the fuse like Multiplex does with the "snakes" on the Easy Glider Pro? This would result in essentially a free fuselage reinforcement.

Originally Posted by garymcc

With the BEVRC v2 it appears the control rod tubes are installed internally in the fuselage. Is it possible to glue the full length of these tubes to the fuselage and use them to stiffen the fuse like Multiplex does with the "snakes" on the Easy Glider Pro? This would result in essentially a free fuselage reinforcement.

I was thinking the same thing. I added the carbon fiber rod to the outside 5-6" before it connects to the rudder, but was thinking you could remove the clear tube all together and use the carbon fiber rod throughout. It is connected to the fuse a few times internally, and the connections are glued. I tested mine before I glued the 2 halves together and there is no flex internally, but it's not all together either. I may re-glue the clear tubes inside to insure they don't move.

Originally Posted by DCourt

Postman showed up with my beat up sky surfer box this morning! I ordered last Sunday night, Monday morning in China, and got it the following Saturday. That little light weight box took a pounding, you know how they stack that stuff up. Everything made it just fine. Last pic shows the inside of V2 SS. Looks stronger to me just having the thicker inside instead of hollow.

After all the problems I had with my 1st sky surfer, I look forward to having some fun with this one. I took a picture of my old fuse. What I was trying to capture was the tail does not follow the center of the plane. It is "bent" is how I would describe it. (Pic 2) I hope to be able to salvage this as I don't feel it is dead yet. I did strip the parts to put in the BEVRC, but not sure what to do with the motor.

After burning up my brushed ESC and not being able to find a local replacement, simultaneously waiting from BH for the replacement, I had the 2 BL ESC's BH sent me. (Pic 3) My local hobby guy said to use one and just buy a motor. So now I have this E-flite motor and not sure if I should modify and mount it on the new SS or just use the supplied BL motor. I have a pic of the mount I made for the E-flite motor. (Pic 1) I would have to make another from scratch for the new fuse, Gorilla glue holds! This motor is only 1200kv which I didn't even know what it meant, but now see most of you guys use +/- 2000kv and I also had to buy a bigger battery since the brushed SS comes with a 7.4. With the new 11.1 2100mah 20c battery and motor combo, the plane flew great, but was already so damaged it was going in circles.



So to recap


BEVRC 6 days China to California

stock motor? or the E-flite

My other question will have to refer to the pics. I have 2 ESC's from BH. I was using the one that plugged right into my motor (yellow), but the new motor had different plugs and not sure if I should just cut them off and solder everything together since I will need to add length to the ESC and / or motor wires to reach? The ESC without plugs on it has considerably shorter wires. Is there a standard length based on current or something? Voltage loss? Now I have just enough knowledge to get me in trouble.

I still need some input on how to set up my V2 SS. I have 2 BL ESC's I can use. the yellow one has plenty long wires, but a different plug than the stock motor I received with V2. I can cut the plugs and solder them together and make it work. Or the blue one has short wires with no plugs, and I can extend them and solder everything without plugs.
My other option is going exactly like I did on V1 with the yellow ESC plugging right into my E-flite motor. I hate to modify this SS like the first to make the motor work. I apparently bought the wrong style motor, but was sick of waiting for BH to send a replacement brushed ESC and couldn't find one at the local store. They then sold me this motor. If the stock motor works good, I just want to finally get some flying time on this one.
My concerns are that if I use the blue one, the yellow one and my motor are ready to go into something new I can buy. ( I know I'm gonna love this once I have a few good flights) But, with the blue one having short wires, I don't know if there is a "standard" length? I remember reading somewhere not to cut motor wires, to de-solder them because the length was critical.


Any input is appreciated

Originally Posted by DCourt

I was thinking the same thing. I added the carbon fiber rod to the outside 5-6" before it connects to the rudder, but was thinking you could remove the clear tube all together and use the carbon fiber rod throughout. It is connected to the fuse a few times internally, and the connections are glued. I tested mine before I glued the 2 halves together and there is no flex internally, but it's not all together either. I may re-glue the clear tubes inside to insure they don't move.

Great idea to replace the nylon with CF. Thanks.

I don't know if there is a "standard" length? I remember reading somewhere not to cut motor wires, to de-solder them because the length was critical.

I spliced the three motor wires on two different ESCs that are in two different planes, the Clouds Fly (similar to the SkyS) and a flying wing. I have not noticed any problem with either spliced ESC and I have more than 50 flights on each machine.
On one splice I simply extended the three ESC wires by soldering on a length of wire to each ESC motor wire, no added connectors in the middle of the wire.

The second ESC (flying wing) I extended the 3 wires by building three wires with connectors on each end (male on one end, female on the other) and using these three wires with connectors to go between the 3 ESC motor wires and the brushless motor wires.

Both methods have worked so far. Hope this helps.