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Old Feb 04, 2013, 10:02 AM
Lost in the sky
Tulsa, OK
Joined Sep 2007
85 Posts
Rob

I got word back from Ray, I missed that the model in your pictures was the Oly II SX. There are no built up tail plans for the Oly III.


Luckyducky

Do you have any photos or plans of your built up tail? How did the weight compare to the original solid tail pieces?

Thanks for your input guys.

Mike
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Old Feb 06, 2013, 10:26 PM
Registered User
United States, ID, Burley
Joined Mar 2012
3,282 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by OK FLyer View Post
Now that I had my new parts it was time for a dry test fit.

The motor arrived as I was writing up this log and I did a quick test fit.

It looks pretty good to me, but I do need to consider how I am going to get the motor in an out around F2. I may need to cut a U shape in the top of F2 to aid in getting the motor in and out. I'll to see how the nose hatch is designed and modify it to provide access. I also need to provide a little relief in the left fuselage side to clear the back of the motor but that is easily done with a drum sander.

That's all for now, it's time for lunch.

Thanks for reading.

Mike
wow ! A friend is building the oly 2 and he installed the motor outside,right on the front of the glider,think he messed up (as far as COG) ? i checked it out and really dont see room for it inside fuse as the plans show that front area for esc and battery ?
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Old Feb 09, 2013, 01:39 AM
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United States, CA, Huntington Beach
Joined Dec 2007
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Originally Posted by OK FLyer View Post
Luckyducky

Do you have any photos or plans of your built up tail? How did the weight compare to the original solid tail pieces?
Mike
No photos yet, I'll shoot some in the next few days.
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Old Feb 09, 2013, 03:29 PM
Lost in the sky
Tulsa, OK
Joined Sep 2007
85 Posts
During the week I recieved some new batteries for my Chrysalis that needed Deans connectors and since I had the soldering iron out I went ahead and soldered the connectors on to the CC Thunderbird 54 ESC.

I then marked the centerline of the formers and drilled 1/2 inch dia. venting holes in all of the formers that didn't already have them. I also drilled out the tail block to allow cooling air to exit from the tail.

Next I copied the locations of the tail formers (F6 & F7) from the plans onto the fuselage sides.

I set up and glued the 3 center formers (F3, F4 & F5) to the left side of the fuselage using Titebond III. I clamped them down and verifyed that they were all square. After the glue set for about 1 hour I went ahead and glued the right side of the fuselage and clamped it down. The Easy-Touch sanding bars make pretty good clamping bars.
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Old Feb 10, 2013, 05:35 AM
Registered User
Valdosta, GA
Joined May 2006
175 Posts
If it's not too late, consider putting the servos in the bay under the wing tube. This frees up the original servo bay for your battery. I used 3S 2200 lipos in my E-Oly III and the CG came out right without any additional weight.
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Old Feb 10, 2013, 11:51 AM
Lost in the sky
Tulsa, OK
Joined Sep 2007
85 Posts
I have planned to place the servos in the bay below and behind the wing tube, RX and Eagle Tree sensors in the next bay forward and the battery where the servos were supposed to go.

Mike
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Old Feb 10, 2013, 12:13 PM
Lost in the sky
Tulsa, OK
Joined Sep 2007
85 Posts
I did some additional work on the fuselage last night and this morning.

Last night I sanded the tail block to match the profile of the horizontal stabilizer saddle and then glued the tail block, stab saddle and the tail formers on the marks I made on the fuselage sides using Titebond III. I clamped everything down and left it to dry overnight. Before I glued anything I test fit the tail section top sheet to verify that everything lined up and fit correctly.

This morning I was test fitting the front former and firewall and realized I had forgotten to make the relief in the left had fuselage side for the back of the motor. I marked the back of the motor and centerline of the motor and used a drum sander in my dremel to make the initial relief. I finished up using a roll of adhesive backed sandpaper for the bar sanders that happened to by slightly larger in diameter than the motor. The relief is about 1/2 way through the lite ply part of the fuselage side and provides about 1/16 inch clearance around the motor. Once I fit up the spinner I'll look at how that side flows and might add a balsa cheek piece to fair it in better. I plan on putting fiberglass around the front of the fuselage so I am not worried about the strength.

After getting the relief taken care of I glued in the front and firewall formers in with Titebond III. I lined up the centerline marks on the formers along a line I had drawn on a piece of paper that I covered with wax paper and clamped everything down.
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Old Feb 12, 2013, 06:42 PM
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United States, CA, Huntington Beach
Joined Dec 2007
92 Posts
Attached photos show the built-up tail section and electronics layout. Not shown are the CF rod replacing the steel one and the removable tail (simply to adjust decalage as needed for final trimming). The fuselage top deck will be 1/8th and the fuselage is fitted with triangular stock to facilitate rounded edges. Although many might not agree with the departure, adding ailerons will make the model easier to turn.
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Old Feb 16, 2013, 08:24 AM
Lost in the sky
Tulsa, OK
Joined Sep 2007
85 Posts
Luckyducky

Thank you for the photos of your tail section, that is very similar to what I was considering.
Did you happen to check the weight as compared to the orginal sheet tail?
I do like how you traced the outline of the laser cut parts. I usually scan them but the larger pieces are a challange.

Mike
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Old Feb 16, 2013, 03:23 PM
Lost in the sky
Tulsa, OK
Joined Sep 2007
85 Posts
I've done some work on the fuselage during the week so I am catching up on the log.

Since I widened the nose to accept the motor, the bottom lite ply sheet that was included in the kit no longer fit. I purchased some 1/8" lite ply and made a new one. I wasn't able the find a piece long enough to do the bottom as one piece so I cut the rear end of the kit piece off and spliced it to the new front section using CA. I placed the splice point so that it would be located over one of the formers. I left the new bottom sheet long and will cut if off flush with the nose once I glue it in place.

I am relocating the servos to under the wing so I needed a new servo tray. I cut a piece of lite ply to fit the bay under the wing and used the kite servo tray as a template for the servo cut out.

I had hoped to be able to find a longer piece of .047 music wire so that I wouldn't have to splice the control linkages since I was only about 4 inches short but I wasn't able to find any pieces longer than 36 inches locally. I did find a on-line place that I could order a 1/4 lb roll (70+ ft.) for less than $3.00 from but it had a 4 to 6 week lead time and shipping was $9.00. I wasn't willing to wait that long so I went ahead and installed the control linkages and soldered in the couplers. I moved the splice location back into the tail so I wouldn't have to worry about the couplers running into the formers. I cleaned the control linkage ends with sand paper and then pre-tinned them using silver solder and flux before soldering them into the couplers.

After I had the control linkages installed I temporarily installed the servos into the tray, fit the tray into the fuselage and connect the linkages to the servos to determine the servo tray location. The servo tray needed to be 1 inch up from the bottom of the fuselage, I cut one of the kit servo tray supports down to 1" high and then cut it in half and using Titebond glued a piece into each side of the fuselage to support the servo tray. I then glued the servo tray in place . After the glue dried overnight I installed the servos but left the linkages long to be trimmed up once they are connected to the tail.

I cut some 1/64" plywood pieces and glued them in to fill in along the top inside of the fuselage to fill the space between the front and rear inside plywood doublers so that there wouldn't be a gap between the fuselage sides and the fuselage top. I then glued the top fuselage sheet in place using Titebond.
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Old Feb 17, 2013, 01:19 AM
AMA 179
United States, CA, Huntington Beach
Joined Dec 2007
92 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by OK FLyer View Post
Luckyducky

Thank you for the photos of your tail section, that is very similar to what I was considering. Did you happen to check the weight as compared to the original sheet tail? I do like how you traced the outline of the laser cut parts. I usually scan them but the larger pieces are a challenge. Mike
No, didn't weigh the built-up tail sections, I think they'll be slightly lighter, but not much since the kit wood was very light. Honestly, my main reason for the open framework was so I could see sunlight shining through the flying surfaces when it's in the air ... simply esthetics.

BTW, while looking at your servo placement, I think you might get less servo flex by mounting them lengthwise to the fuselage, rather than crossways.
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Old Feb 17, 2013, 09:50 AM
Lost in the sky
Tulsa, OK
Joined Sep 2007
85 Posts
Luckyducky

I'm with you on the aesthetics of the light shining through the structure, it's one of the reasons I love woodies.

I originally was going to mount the servos side by side lengthwise but the control arms were hitting the fuselage sides. In other aircraft I have staggered the servos front and rear but I was concerned about access through the over-wing hatch to the rear servo. I didn't want to shorten the control arms so I thought I'd try the transverse mount. I'll re-evaluate after I get the control surfaces connected up and see how much flex I get in the servos. I can add a shim between the servos to make them more rigid, I spaced them 1/8" apart just in case I need to do that.

Mike
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Old Feb 17, 2013, 06:24 PM
Lost in the sky
Tulsa, OK
Joined Sep 2007
85 Posts
I've been getting ready to glue the bottom sheeting on. I decided to add 1/8" square balsa strips to the bottom of the fuselage sides in the tail section in case I get a little aggressive with rounding the corners. I also added 1/2" x 1/8" lite ply doubler strips along the bottom edge of the fuselage sides on the forward part of the fuselage.

I also glued the upper fuselage stiffener pieces in place and then went ahead and glued the cut off pieces in front of the former to just aft of the back of the motor.

In the nose I added 1/2" balsa triangle stock around the motor on both the top and bottom.

The top left piece had to be sanded a bit to clear the motor. I did a rough sanding with my roll of self adhesive sand paper and glued it in place. After the glue dried for about and hour I mounted the motor loosely and stuck a piece of the of the sand paper to the motor. I rotated the motor back and forth to sand clearance around the motor periodically tightening the screws until the motor was tight. After I removed the sand paper I had about 1/16" clearance around the motor.

I used my dremel drum sander the sand a radius in the triangle stock for the lower right side in order to provide clearance for the motor wires. I also put a piece of heat shrink around the motor wires to protect them. I test fitted the piece several times until I was satisfied with the fit and glued it in place.

After I had all the triangle stock glued in place I went to remove the motor and discovered I had made a minor oversight. I only ran the triangle stock pieces on the top of the fuselage to the back of the motor intending to be able to remove the motor in the space behind, however the spruce cut off pieces that I had glued in behind them were too wide and the motor will not fit between them. So the motor is stuck in there now. I decided to just leave it in place, if I ever need to remove it I'll have to sand the spruce pieces down to get clearance but I'll deal with than if I ever have to remove the motor.

Before putting the bottom sheeting on I wiped the control linkages down with Remington gun oil.

I glued the forward and aft bottom sheet together with CA. I then glued the bottom sheet to the fuselage with Titebond and clamped it down. I'll let it dry overnight.

Mike
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Last edited by OK FLyer; Feb 17, 2013 at 07:01 PM.
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Old Feb 17, 2013, 09:24 PM
AMA 179
United States, CA, Huntington Beach
Joined Dec 2007
92 Posts
Hi Mike - not sure if you've framed the wing center removable top hatch, so am sending a pic of the approach I've settled on. Also, I've started rounding the nose to fit a 50mm spinner and even with the same 1/2-inch triangle stock that you chose I can see some beefing-up with glass cloth and epoxy might be necessary.
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 08:02 AM
Lost in the sky
Tulsa, OK
Joined Sep 2007
85 Posts
Luckyducky

My plan is to re-enforce the nose with fiberglass.

I like your hatch design. Looks like the frame rails are made of 1/8" x 3/8" balsa with a plywood doubler with 1/4" x 3/8" cross ties, is that correct?

Do you plan on using magnets to secure it?

Mike

Mike
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