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Old Oct 10, 2014, 03:01 PM
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United States, AR, Little Rock
Joined Aug 2014
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pinning question

Hey guys, I am reading a lot of build threads and as much as I can about building kit planes my first kit is on the way and should be here next week but one question keeps coming back. What is the strategy for pinning parts? Some people pin parts straight through the parts, others on the sides of the wood? Is there a reason for it? just personal preference? Or is there actually a reason for it? Thanks for your help.
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Old Oct 10, 2014, 03:05 PM
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rcav8r2's Avatar
United States, PA, Beaver
Joined Sep 2001
3,521 Posts
For me, if I think the part is going to split when I pin it, I will cross pin. That is a pin at an angle and another on the other side at the opposite angle this clamping it down to the work surface.
Experience will quickly tell you when to cross pin.
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Old Oct 10, 2014, 03:14 PM
The Hun in the Sun
vonJaerschky's Avatar
Canada, BC, Comox
Joined Nov 2003
7,440 Posts
I used to cross pins to make an "X" over the stick or part, but since having discovered these pins I have found that it is no longer necessary, even when pinning 1/8" square balsa. These pins are extremely sharp, thin, and have a long taper so they don't split the wood like the more common, thicker T-Pins. Give them a try, they're great!
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Old Oct 10, 2014, 03:23 PM
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portablevcb's Avatar
Albuquerque, NM USA
Joined Sep 2003
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I use the really thin sewing pins. Only use Tpins on something big and heavy.

charlie
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Old Oct 10, 2014, 06:00 PM
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glewis's Avatar
USA, FL, Tampa
Joined Jul 2002
4,828 Posts
I never stick pins through the wood unless absolutely necessary because it weakens it and can cause it to split.
If using a pin is unavoidable, once it is removed a tiny drop of water in the pin hole will swell the wood fibers and the hole pretty much closes up.

I like the look of the modelers pins, but pink? Couldn't they have used any other color?
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Old Oct 10, 2014, 08:27 PM
The Hun in the Sun
vonJaerschky's Avatar
Canada, BC, Comox
Joined Nov 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glewis View Post
I never stick pins through the wood unless absolutely necessary because it weakens it and can cause it to split.
If using a pin is unavoidable, once it is removed a tiny drop of water in the pin hole will swell the wood fibers and the hole pretty much closes up.

I like the look of the modelers pins, but pink? Couldn't they have used any other color?
They're so thin, I think it really is a non issue. I've certainly never had any problems with structural integrity. As far as the colour goes, I've never actually gotten pink ones; only blue and yellow. So there's really no excuse not to try them!
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Old Oct 10, 2014, 08:56 PM
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United States, AR, Little Rock
Joined Aug 2014
31 Posts
I ordered those modelers pins to try those. Thanks!
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Old Oct 10, 2014, 09:12 PM
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United States, NJ, Browns Mills
Joined May 2005
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If it's a sheet part (i.e, a doubler, side, etc., I'll just stick a "t" pin right through the part. If it's a longeron, spar, or other thin and narrow bit, I'll stick the pin alongside it and use a pin clamp to hold the wood down. I will NOT stick a pin through an important structural member if the pin's diameter is a significant fraction of the width of the member.

Rocket City used to make pin clamps, but with them shut down, I make mine by using a hole punch to punch discs from a plastic lid.

CD
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Old Oct 10, 2014, 09:18 PM
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United States, VA, Fredericksburg
Joined Mar 2013
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Large parts I will put a t-pin through, smaller parts I will cross over or pin beside the part and let the "T" apply pressure to hold the part in place. I have some very tiny, thin t-pins. I'm going to order some of the modelers pins. I need more and those look like they will do the job nicely!

Joe
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Old Oct 10, 2014, 09:23 PM
The Hun in the Sun
vonJaerschky's Avatar
Canada, BC, Comox
Joined Nov 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Captain Dunsel View Post
Rocket City used to make pin clamps, but with them shut down, I make mine by using a hole punch to punch discs from a plastic lid.
CD
The pins I mentioned in the link above have a shoulder, so you can use them like a pin clamp, as long as your building board is thick enough to take the length of the pin.
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Old Oct 10, 2014, 09:38 PM
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GeorgeG97322's Avatar
United States, OR, Albany
Joined Jun 2007
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I also use the old Rocket City pin clamps. Too bad they are hard to find. They do get weak over time as tey are slid up and down on a pin.

George
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Old Oct 11, 2014, 07:24 AM
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United States, NJ, Browns Mills
Joined May 2005
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I still have a batch of those Rocket City clamps. I made up new ones I made from red Sunmaid raisin lids, because the red is much more visible than the black Rocket City ones. Since the lid clamps get loose over time, I put 2 or even 3 on a single pin. The cost to make them is negligible; a hole punch and lids that would've gone into the trash.

CA won't stick to the plastic discs, but they will slide up over time (as in the picture).

CD
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Old Oct 11, 2014, 08:38 AM
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JIMA's Avatar
New Boston, Texas, United States
Joined Jan 2003
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I have switched to a magnetic building board thus doing away with pins altogether. Have not build a model on it yet but am looking forward to it.

Jim
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Old Oct 11, 2014, 10:25 AM
Retired and Lovin' it!
United States, KY, Sturgis
Joined Jul 2007
2,525 Posts
I have started using a steel board and magnets also, but there are times and places where nothing beats a good modelers pin.

Tony
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Old Oct 11, 2014, 10:30 AM
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Ken Myers's Avatar
Commerce Township, MI
Joined Aug 2001
4,465 Posts
I build on sheet glass over the plans. No pins necessary.
http://www.theampeer.org/midwest/art...ingOnGlass.pdf
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