|Oct 14, 2011, 10:44 AM|
Regarding 2 blade props, I recently was given a used 182 for my son to try out. Naturally dad has to have the first few flights
Landings have been an issue and I've repaired the front strut numerous times and subsequently had to replace the prop the other day.
With a few 3 blade props ordered I couldn't wait till next week for them to arrive and had to try out something else. So I bought a few APC props and settled on an 11x6 sport prop. Not going off water yet but there was a marked improvement in performance over the stock EDO 10x7 3 blade. Also this was using a hobbyzone 3s 1300mAh batt from a supercub. Short flying time but I thought performance was ok on the 3 blade though I tended to go over 75% throttle a lot and the batteries got hot. But with the 11x6 I'm always 50-75% throttle and when testing before flying we ran down a similar PZ battery at 75% throttle without heating up the batt, ESC or BEC. Well actually, battery was warm but not hot. Other parts were cool.
After reading a few people having issues with 4S packs and the stock 50A ESC I figured if a little HZ 3S lipo can make this thing perform I'd stick with better rated 3S batts. So I had two 2200 3s 20C zippy batteries from HK arrive today and got close to 10mins out of them and landed before there was any hint of power drop rather than waiting for the BEC to kick in. I had doubts over this heavy sport prop but components were cool, no sign of bits being overworked.
No idea about programming the ESC. The previous owner was using 4S batts but I've just plugged everything in and off it went and I'm that impressed with these bigger 3S batts and the 11x6 prop combo that I don't think I'll bother with the 3 bladers when they arrive.
Wish I could relate a water take off story with this combo but the front mount's stuffed after trying a tail dragger conversion
|Oct 14, 2011, 09:38 PM|
It came with the cheapest junk motor/esc/servos, and i do mean junk
I changed all my electrics from the start, the motor was/still is, a G&C GC3648-KV600 (a readily available FMS motor replacement for the FMS P51 Mustang etc), and has never missed a beat after countless flights, 11x7 2 blade prop, everything comes down cool, and on 2450mah 4S I could easily achieve 10 min scale flights
on my blog, I tested some props I had lying around at the time:
This is the standard E-Do Model prop
1070 x 3 EP plastic 3 blade
Approx cruise throttle:
This is the prop I use on this Cessna
11 x 7E EMP nylon 2 blade
Approx cruise throttle:
12 x 7 Turnigy woodie 2 blade
Approx cruise throttle:
15 x 8 nylon 2 blade
Approx cruise throttle:
Keep on mind a 3 blade prop is far less efficient than a 2 blader, ESPECIALLY this stock 3 blader because it is so flexible & inefficient.
yup, the main wheel mount is weak.... I too have folded it back, so what i did was epoxied it back into position, then made a "bracing strut"- see photo below
I had bought a float kit with the intention of flying off salt water [but decided against it for fear of major corrosion] but the float kit came with all the additional aluminium float struts, so I hacked into it
I cut down the rear float main mount, then cut a length of ally to go diagonally from just above the main wheels back up to the cut down rear main mount.
With this simple mod I can fly from fields none of my other planes ever could, and I still use this e-Do plane to help others to learn to fly from time to time, so the undercarriage gets a fair punishment with no issues.
skip to 3:50 on this vid and you'll see me over-run a cricket pitch into the surrounding unmown grass causing it to flip the plane, and after the main gear mod this sort of thing is absolutely no problem
oh, please save me the embarrassment and skip the last bit of the vid...
I've been so impressed with this mod, I later bought a Tian Sheng 1900mm 182 and converted the main gear from trike to tail dragger see pics
Hope this helps
|Oct 15, 2011, 09:37 AM|
hehe, yeah that was unfortunate, glad you got it back though. Actually I saw that video a while back when searching for any info about this 182. We've had it for about 2 months and I looked at some of your mods with interest. I've done similar suspension for the rear struts but obviously not braced the same as it's back to trike setup. I cobbled up suspension on the front strut too but that didn't work out well with a control rod that was too flexible and lasted one landing after turning the wheel on it's own without rudder input. Against all instinct and better judgement I just had to put it in the air one more time didn't I, and following a shaky hand launch it didn't last another landing and is why the engine mount then broke after a nose over. I really don't know how old this plane is or if it's 1st version or later but it does have a wooden engine mount which I thought I read earlier in the thread came with later 182 and 185s.
Anyhow, only bit of electrics I've had to replace so far is the rudder servo with a 16.6g hitec one I had on hand. The original went kaput on the workbench after I stripped a gear whilst reattaching a front wheel control rod. I'll replace the rest shortly cause IMO it broke to easily and now I don't trust them. But I cant fault the rest of the gear.
I've only been at this for nearly a couple of years and wasn't expecting to jump into this plane, preferring to get into smaller balsa kits but even if having to spend some time and money on improving some components and mods, it flies so well and it's spurring my son's and my interest in the hobby that I'm going to get another for the price they are. Hopefully, later in the coming week after I've finished some repairs I'll put some pics and video up.
|Oct 15, 2011, 07:12 PM|
Mine was V1 with the most brittle plastic engine mount, didnt take long for that one to snap, replaced with the V2 ply motor mount
I reckon for a learner plane with undercarriage the faomie cessna works well... if it gets broken just glue back together... an altercation with a balsa plane means a decent rebuild... and this cessna for all it's electrical shortcomings, does fly nice
The nose wheel of trike landing gear is always the archillies heel, in foamies they will always be a weak link, fine with profficient landings &/or good ground surface, but tail draggers with these cessnas are great, seldom nose-overs with the main wheels so far fwd of the cg
to each their own I guess
eventually I'll be fpv'ing my TS Cessna, the main wheels are a reasonable size so she really does handle rough ground very well, opens up a lot more flying areas with the option to fly from the cockpit
|Oct 21, 2011, 06:28 PM|
Nose wheel repair on the 182
I had the plane up earlier in the week, testing my then latest repair attempt to the nose landing gear. Familiar story, I got one flight before the the second flight ended with a collapsed nose wheel and prop strike on take off. So back to the drawing board.
I fly off sports fields and have found the clumps and bumps in grass causes the nose wheel mounting area to cop a hammering. Each mishap has led to more foam being removed, some reglued in place, but an increasing amount of deformity to the area. I needed to step up from previous attempts and make a decent mount and finally I've had success. I've made these "T" shaped ply stiffening mounts to extend up the firewall behind the motor and across the lower part of the firewall. They're epoxied together and epoxied and screwed to the firewall. The original front and rear mounting plates were reused along with longer dubro cap screws.
This would be my 5th repair attempt perhaps and early on I put aside the top shaft of the nose wheel and replaced it by experimenting with differing lengths of shaft formed from 4mm tent pegs. The metal is softer but still strong. For rough landings it's proven to be fine but for a crash it may bend. I thought perhaps that this stuff would provide some give in a crash situation which may save the firewall.
So to the test flights. Hmm, it worked. It was windy so I hand launched (with son at controls) then I took over for a landing. It nosed over a bit at the end but no damage whatsoever. A rolling take off and no damage after landing again. Awsome. I hand launched again for my son, he climbs, does a circuit then does a barrel roll and loop, a hard turn to come back and the battery falls out. Of all the things to happen. The plane's left wing struck the ground first then it came down awkwardly on to the LG. This drop was from about 30ft I guess. Plane was intact, all LG intact. Wow. Only damage was LIPO was warped as it landed harder.
A new battery, ROG, about 5 mins in, the same thing happens Battery falls out from higher this time, would guess 40", but the plane's in a dive, spiralling 180deg before hitting the ground nose first. The cowl and engine came free, windshield and both front windows popped out but best of all, the firewall was undamaged The nose wheel's top shaft bent, easily replaced. In a wierd sense I was thrilled by the result of the crash.
What's more worrying is the cause. Not that I didn't secure the battery in properly the first time, but I managed to repeat the same mistake I strapped them in as I've done before but oh man! I swear it will never happen again. I just look forward to the day I can return from the park with all batteries depleted and no repairs to be done. Almost there
|Oct 27, 2011, 06:34 AM|
regarding batteries... i always in the least have a velcro strap to fasten the battery in
when the battery is loaded from under the plane, like these cessna's, then i also have velcro strip on the battery itself... AND i tape the hatch for added insurance
perhaps paranoid, but i've seen the result of batteries either moving during the flight and altering the CG at the worse time... or, as you have found- dropping out
congrats on your flights
|Oct 27, 2011, 10:40 AM|
Thanks Hoppy. We got asked to join a few others for an early morning flight last Saturday so I spent a good deal of Friday night making sure the 182 and nose gear was flight ready. I'm stoked to report we went through 3 batteries without issues. (velcro attached to batts this time) Flying off an astro turfed cricket pitch it tracked straight and landed on grass, no dramas. We recharged and went for another fly at a park closer to home later in the day and I'll leave you with a short 1min vid below from that time. Nothing too fancy but I'm impressed with how my 13yo son handles this thing and can land it safely. Nearly better than me
So I've got a second one arriving from HK tomorrow hopefully. He'll get that one and I'll apply some of the mods I've done, particularly the nose gear reinforcement, and I'll continue to experiment with and fly the old battered one. I thought about a 185 but figured if he has trouble with the trike gear I'll convert his 182 to taildragger including reinforcements to rear strut attachments similar to yours and buy the 185 tailwheel assembly.
|Oct 28, 2011, 08:39 PM|
My son's 182 arrived yesterday and there's a few changes from mine, in particular a much thicker engine mount which is great plus magnets for the cowl. Stronger magnets for the battery hatch too. There's also a sprung front strut and whilst I like this change it's a bit poorly done. The spring seems like it's rated just right but the strut doesn't slide easily enough and some frontal force will cause a bind preventing the strut from compressing. And this is after using some lithium grease to lube up the strut.
All shafts have to be given a flat spot for the grub screws to lock into and IMO there was too much twisting freeplay movement within the strut that needs a bushing on the lower shaft's cap screw to cancel that out. I used an old blind nut for this purpose and the binding I spoke of before occurs with or without this nut in place. As for the rest, it's got the built in BEC and ESC, green wrapped. Elevator servo was dodgy and replaced with another I had on hand and then it flew no probs. I didn't do the firewall/front strut strenghthening mod, wanting to see how this new stock strut handled the ground and whilst it worked, the mount has loosened with the foam behind the mount not coping with that front-on force from takeoffs and landings. This is on grass btw. I would guess this setup would do far better on hard smooth surfaces but personally I'd still want to stiffen the mount and firewall.
As for mine, it was flying well, I just had issues landing. A cloudy windless morning and my innability to slope this thing in for flaps assisted landings meant a long approach and high landing speed. First attempt was a go around, second attempt was a touch and go after it was noted that the plane was going to hit a light post. Third attempt was a disaster. Came in hot, nailed the landing I thought but carpark barriers coming up quick and when I full throttled I cleared the barriers but on the 180deg turn managed to collect a gum tree. And that's the end of me and my Edo Cessna. Too much to epoxy together, it's heading for the parts bin for my son to salvage from.
If I can leave with a review of sorts, from one relative noob to anyone else searching for info about this plane before comitting to buy - IMO, it's not for the beginner, but it's not hard to fly and when in the air it's fun and flys great. Very durable despite damage I inflicted. That last crash would've totalled anything, it was pretty violent, but I've been amazed how well it's held up during other crashes and still fly straight afterwards or after repairs. It's body and wings are tough and well made. It's weak point is the front landing gear, no question. The mount in particular followed by the need to make flat spots on the shafts to stop the strut from independently twisting. Piloting skills aside, the strut and mount will stuff up eventually as is. At $136AUD that the latest one cost me delivered it invokes a "too good to be true" feeling about it. It will cost you more in the short/medium term as you switch to better servos and fix the front gear but I can't fault any part of the body, fuse or wings. QC can be iffy re preassembled bits but you check everything before taking to the air, like any plane. I just wish I was a better pilot So it's more stick time on our trainer for me.
|Nov 06, 2011, 02:08 PM|
my 182 without floats
Hi Mike, hi all,
nice clip, it's a very nice place to fly, did you add more mods on your floats?.
I got a 1 version Cessna, a real disaster, I have changed all the linkages and the wings connections, lot's of work...., I tried it with floats, not bad but CG had to to be reworked.
Tricycle landing gear: recently I decided to try it on wheels, the front strut wood plate collapsed after a smoth landing on asphalt ,
this plane is really full of issues in the mains stuctural points.
I have rebuilt the entire strut fixation with ply wood, like BELLYUP. I have changed the stock strut with a DSR46 front gear with suspension, it works wonderfully.
The original wire fits exactly in, no need to add work on it.
I lowered the high of the rear alloy struts, for more scale look and better CG position on taking off.
I have changed the wheels axles and all the foam wheels, they where bad centered.
Now it lands an looks more like a scale Cessna, but I have to work more on the finishing, painting, decals and lights.....I have ordered a new set of fiberglass wheel pants from:
The pic shows the stock ones.
Plane flyes well, stable and smoth, it's a pity for the poor RTF version they are selling. Just buy it as a kit!!!
|Nov 08, 2011, 09:48 AM|
Joined Sep 2002
[QUOTE=panamarenko;19802968]Hi Mike, hi all,
nice clip, it's a very nice place to fly, did you add more mods on your floats?.
The float mods include a 4" step extension and putting the water rudder servo on the bottom of the fuselage and running pull-pull cables to the back of the float (keeps the servo dry). The floats still want to stick to the water. I might try putting some small turbulator strips on the bottom of the forward floats to see if that helps.
|Nov 10, 2011, 12:21 AM|
Mike, really enjoyed the vid. I haven't seen too many but of the couple I've seen usually shows unmodded 182s and 185s taking nosedives and wingovers in the water. But watching yours I'm convinced I need to try out floats now on the 182. I was going to get a 185 but the only ones available in Aus are being sold at over $300 so I'll stick with another 182 and will have to read this thread from scratch again, noting all the mods to make this thing perform well off water. I've got a good sized lake nearby to have a go at and it's getting warm enough here now that if the plane ends up stranded in the middle I can swim to retrieve. Or chuck my son in.
panamarenko, yours looks great. I like the antennae, the spinner and are they tinted windows I like its stance on the ground there. The sprung front strut on our newer one makes the nose way too high and its not that great quality. I've read good reviews on the DSR line of retracts and struts and will look into that. For the meantime, on our land based 182, we'll just stick with a solid unsprung strut with plenty of reinforcement on the firewall. plus I've got a 3" rubber wheel now to help cushion the landings. Not exactly scale like and pants will be removed and will stay off. We only fly off grass so it's not worth having the pants on, though the fibreglass ones will look good IMO and be better suited. Anyhow, great job on your plane.
|Nov 10, 2011, 12:57 PM|
Hi Mike, hi Belly,
thank you for your posts, this EDO-Cessna was one of the first big EPO model on the market but full of issues, in the near future, we will see more scale and detailled foam models.
My cockpit is black inside, not the windows, I could'nt live with the stock one.
DSR struts are really good working, the quality of the steel employed is good, the spring is soft enough, the plastic wheels are well centered.
I hope to see a big EPO Beaver with floats once, not only Cessnas and CUB.
|Nov 16, 2011, 03:34 PM|
Joined Sep 2011
Well, I got one of these dirt cheap, not knowing much about it... After reading up on this thread, i atleast know what to start working on... I haven't gotten it yet, so I guess I'll find out what generation it is...
I can however add a few tidbits of info I have managed to dig up...
According to E-Do models themselves, the motor is 950Kv (however markings on it is 1000Kv ?) the recommended parts to go with it are a 3-4S battery, and a 40A+ ESC... And either the 3 blade 1060 prop, or APC 1047,1170,1260... So I guess the recommendations in this thread are similar...
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