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Old Jan 26, 2015, 09:32 PM
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Question
Anyone had Trouble with the Robart Electric Gear?

I received my electric Robart gear for my Giant scale P-47 kit build and to say the least I am disappointed.

It was a real sacrifice to spend nearly $500 just for the mains.

Here is what I have observed:

1. They won't function (kind of a major bummer)
2. Paint chips everywhere
3. Gear legs assembled bassackwards.

Now, one could argue 2 and 3 are now big deal cause war birds get worn but for $500 frickin dollar gear? They should come in a stained oak presentation box (just being sarcastic). Hey, I am a working guy and not one of those that shows up at fly in's with a big trailer and a 50K RV so it is a big deal to drop this kind of money.

Also, the control box has issues:

1. the connectors on the gear are polarized but the connectors to receive them in the control box are not and the opening in the control box allows them to be plugged in either way but you really have no idea if they are making contact.

2. The instructions say to look at the box to see if they are "A" or "B" type but nothing on the box, manual or drawing indicate which type they are.

3. The control box is cheesy, flimsy and looks like what you would expect from China in a $20 receiver.

EVERY SINGLE electric retract I have bought from E-Flite or Hobby King has worked right out of the box and continued to be reliable. However, for this bigger model they don't make gear or gear legs that would really work. So for the Top Flite P-47 I really could only choose between air or electric Robarts.

Anyone else had issues with the electric retracts from Robart????

Dave
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Last edited by payne9999; Jan 26, 2015 at 09:49 PM.
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Old Jan 29, 2015, 07:35 AM
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# Scale is a way of life
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Mine worked fine right out of the box,,

Right from the instructions.
Quote:
The Robart Electric Series uses different motor amp-out
settings depending on the size, weight, and geometry of the
retract. Type A has a lower amp-out threshold. Typically,
smaller retracts and tail wheels require Type A settings.
These actuators will have a Type A sticker on the leads. All
other actuators are Type B unless otherwise noted with a
sticker on the leads
. When using less than 6.0V, it is
recommended to use Type A settings for all retracts.
I have the original control box, marked type 1/2 not a/b,, and used the jumper not the dip switch, but they work in either position, just faster at the higher amp setting #2

The "#2" sticker is actually on the Actuator cylinder on my tail wheel retract, not on the wire. There is no stickers on the Mains actuators. As the instructions say, no sticker, assume use it on the "B" setting, unless you're running a low voltage system

Polarity? Mine are marked, (-) is to the right, empty signal to the left

Hope this helps,,,, if not contact Robart, you may have gotten a DOA control box

good luck
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Old Jan 29, 2015, 10:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scale_only View Post
Mine worked fine right out of the box,,

Right from the instructions.


I have the original control box, marked type 1/2 not a/b,, and used the jumper not the dip switch, but they work in either position, just faster at the higher amp setting #2

The "#2" sticker is actually on the Actuator cylinder on my tail wheel retract, not on the wire. There is no stickers on the Mains actuators. As the instructions say, no sticker, assume use it on the "B" setting, unless you're running a low voltage system

Polarity? Mine are marked, (-) is to the right, empty signal to the left

Hope this helps,,,, if not contact Robart, you may have gotten a DOA control box

good luck
Apparently the box is DOA, sent it back a couple of days ago. It is just very disappointing to after all these years being able to buy what is supposed to be the best and having it defective.

Dave
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Old Jan 29, 2015, 02:49 PM
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Post your findings with the new gear, I look forward to hearing your outcome.
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Old Jan 29, 2015, 03:07 PM
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Will do. Just hoping the new box will come soon so I can make sure they work and carry on with my project.

Dave
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Old Jan 30, 2015, 04:47 AM
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I've posted this before, about a friend that had a giant TF FW-190 with Robart electric gear. He had to send that gear back 3 or 4 times for repair. It was a variety of problems, mechanical bent metal shafts (not struts), electrical (doa when first received), intermittantly functionality. The straw that sent him over the edge was getting it back, good bench testing, good preflight test at the field, then failed in the air and had to belly in. Sent them in one last time, and sold the plane after he got it back. I'm kinda soured on electrics for now.

Having said that, I took robart air retracts and modified them with firgelli linear actuators. They work fine on the bench, so next step is to do some mods to the wing for fitting. These are commercial linear actuators I stumbled onto about 5 years ago and finally got some to experiment with. Since then, they've started advertising here on rcg. You can get them with a standard receiver interface that will operate them proportionally. You can select different gear ratios and different lengths. I should have mine installed and functional about mid summer in my TF P-47. I might have to make a few end fittings to connect to the rotating shaft on the Robarts but so far my prototype works fine. I just have to cut open a hatch in the wing and cut a hole in an adjacent wing rib for the actuator to fit into. It's longer than the current robart, Eflite, or other rc specific actuators currently on the market.
Edwin
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Old Jan 30, 2015, 06:59 AM
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Hey edwin. Could you post a few pics and some details of which Firgelli actuators you installed?

I have been thinking of trying some out. They look like the top choice for being able to make the best scale operating time for retracts.
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Old Jan 30, 2015, 08:17 AM
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Heres what Ive done so far. I have to finish some other planes first before I get back on the P-47. Its that time of the year again, cycling batteries, and general airframe maintenance. You can see one modified and one stock. Since they are a bit long, I need to make a hole in an adjacent rib. I took a little grinding on the plastic, just a very minor amount. The aluminum side frames are stock 1/16" aluminum plate, very easy to fabricate. You have to program the actuator throws at the transmitter. So I start with throws both directions at about 20% and adjust from there until they lock. These are the L16-R series, L16-50-63-6-R is the part number. I dont remember which gear ratio I ordered. Might be 50:1 based on what I see in the part number, not sure.
Edwin
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Old Jan 30, 2015, 08:18 AM
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I am also looking into this source for future projects:

http://www.shindinmachine.com/

Dave
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Old Jan 30, 2015, 08:44 AM
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No bounce, No play.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edwin1 View Post
Heres what Ive done so far....
Sweet info. Thanks.
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Old Jan 30, 2015, 09:12 AM
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# Scale is a way of life
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edwin1 View Post
Heres what Ive done so far. I have to finish some other planes first before I get back on the P-47. Its that time of the year again, cycling batteries, and general airframe maintenance. You can see one modified and one stock. Since they are a bit long, I need to make a hole in an adjacent rib. I took a little grinding on the plastic, just a very minor amount. The aluminum side frames are stock 1/16" aluminum plate, very easy to fabricate. You have to program the actuator throws at the transmitter. So I start with throws both directions at about 20% and adjust from there until they lock. These are the L16-R series, L16-50-63-6-R is the part number. I dont remember which gear ratio I ordered. Might be 50:1 based on what I see in the part number, not sure.
Edwin
So are you using a separate channel for each actuator??

Did you make a custom piece for the pin attachment or grind/drill the actuator shaft
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Old Jan 30, 2015, 06:50 PM
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Made a custom piece. The end fitting that came with it was plastic. I didn't think that would be strong enough. I made the side rails out of 1/16" aluminum plate. It took a little grinding on the plastic cam housing for some clearance, very minimal.

Haven't gotten far enough to decide on two channels or Y cable. I use a DX18 so channel count is not an issue for me. With two channels I can control the speed of each retract independently and slow them down or run one slower than the other.
Edwin
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Old Jan 31, 2015, 07:04 AM
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# Scale is a way of life
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Good info,,, hadn't looked at those in a while,,, looks like the price has come down and they have many more sizes, might be an option now
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Old Feb 01, 2015, 12:47 PM
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This may be irrelevant to your problem but in another thread
on Robart electrics it seems part of the malfunctioning problem
was due to inadequate battery voltage.
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Old Feb 02, 2015, 10:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edwin1 View Post
I've posted this before, about a friend that had a giant TF FW-190 with Robart electric gear. He had to send that gear back 3 or 4 times for repair. It was a variety of problems, mechanical bent metal shafts (not struts), electrical (doa when first received), intermittantly functionality. The straw that sent him over the edge was getting it back, good bench testing, good preflight test at the field, then failed in the air and had to belly in. Sent them in one last time, and sold the plane after he got it back. I'm kinda soured on electrics for now.
That's pretty much the same experience I had with Robart electrics.
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