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Old Dec 11, 2014, 04:39 PM
What place .... is this ???
Australia, SA, Adelaide
Joined Oct 2011
1,390 Posts
[QUOTE=mark hitchman;30171232]Yeah it is for FPV, this is my previous 2 meter glider which did 40 minutes easily with the same setup. I shredded it through some power lines so I thought this would be a good replacement.QUOTE]

Oh dear I haven't done that trick as yet, a chain link fence is my best and I'm happy to say the Skywalker survived that. I'll be interested to see how your Phoenix will go as an FPV ship. I bought mine as a trainer for me to FPV a Cularis, I needed a "glider" trainer to sort out the wing stuff.
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Old Dec 11, 2014, 05:51 PM
CURIOSITY Has Landed!
Fugitive_Bill's Avatar
Sydney, Australia
Joined Jul 2005
1,178 Posts
LOL - I actually almost achieved both - Hitting POWER lines and CYCLONE fence in one flight.
Though it wasn't a P2000, it was a scratch built foamie plane of about 1200mm that a friend and I built in an hour - it was a bet to see if we could do the build in the hour and get it in the air
Took it down to a small local park to get flying 'fix' for the day.

Long story short: I went dead stick at a bad time - as is always the case.
I had to decide between stretching the glide over power lines or diving under them, I elected to try and float over them, success, but then I had to dive some height off or I would have ended up on the other side of an 8ft cyclone/chainlink fence.
Ended up getting on the ground about 10ft before the fence, but of course she slid into the fence at quite a few knots. Luckily not too much damage.

That was years ago. I had a #16 KeyCam on board. If I can find the video I'll post it.
It's quite funny to watch the video as you can see I'm having trouble deciding if I should go over or under the power lines - You had to be there I guess.
-B!
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Old Dec 11, 2014, 06:35 PM
Chasin' that Neon Rainbow
Grantham Kid's Avatar
Australia, QLD, Grantham
Joined Oct 2012
2,964 Posts
One place I fly, all my landings have to approach under some power lines. No touches so far.
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Old Dec 12, 2014, 03:37 AM
Chch, NZ
Democratic Republic of the Congo, Katanga, Haut-Katanga
Joined Mar 2012
176 Posts
I know I am getting off topic but feel it worthwhile as I have both the Phoenix and Raptor (or Firstar...whatever!).
Watch out for tip stalls on the Firstar. I found a heap of aileron differential helped to alleviate it but am still waiting for feedback from others experiences to back up my own testing.
I started with a mix on a pot and a value of 40, as I wound it down to around 10 (getting close to symmetrical aileron action) the plane really wanted to tip stall.
If you can't do it on a mix then rotate the servo arms forward towards the LE to get a mechanical mix. I had to do this as my AP wouldn't know to use differential. I ended up with my servo arms two splines forward for 36 and seems to work ok.
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Old Dec 12, 2014, 04:12 AM
What place .... is this ???
Australia, SA, Adelaide
Joined Oct 2011
1,390 Posts
I have found a little bit of reflex on the ailerons, about 1 or 2 degrees will help as well.
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Old Dec 13, 2014, 04:44 PM
"Rocket Scientist"
crosstrim's Avatar
United States, AZ, Mesa
Joined Feb 2008
272 Posts
Wing Tube

Hi guys,

As I (slowly) get my P2K back in shape I try to make any improvements that I can while I'm in there. I straightened the bent wing tube thinking that I will just re-insert it with the kink towards the wing tip rather than the root, where it will be subject to smaller forces, at least if I can stay away from the plane eating trees It occurred to me that if I reversed both tubes it would give me slightly over 36" between the stops and I could use a longer joiner tube and gain some strength where the wing bent last time. The joiner tube is 9mm, but most places only carry 8 & 10, but I did find some 9mm here: http://www.goodluckbuy.com/9mm7mm-ca...long-3pcs.html I'm out of my element here, so let me know if I'm on the right track, or totally in the weeds. I think that the oem joiner is pultruded, (?) The stuff at goodluckbuy is twill. so I'm asking if anyone knows if there is any reason not to use the twill cf as a joiner tube. Also, any feedback on this seller? Thanks

ct
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Old Dec 13, 2014, 05:06 PM
Zephyr 66" Blunt
mark hitchman's Avatar
New Zealand
Joined Sep 2009
1,942 Posts
The original cf tube it really thick, between 2 and 3 mm wall thickness so if you can't get it that thick get solid if you can. The usual 1mm wall thickness tube wont be good I think.
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Old Dec 20, 2014, 02:01 PM
"Rocket Scientist"
crosstrim's Avatar
United States, AZ, Mesa
Joined Feb 2008
272 Posts
Oh Well ...

Quote:
Originally Posted by mark hitchman View Post
The original cf tube it really thick, between 2 and 3 mm wall thickness so if you can't get it that thick get solid if you can. The usual 1mm wall thickness tube wont be good I think.
I Couldn't find anything that will fit this application, so I guess I'll stay with the stock tube. Kinda tough getting anything done over the holidays, Merry Christmas all.

ct
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Old Yesterday, 04:15 PM
Registered User
doggit's Avatar
northenden, manchester, england
Joined May 2009
1,449 Posts
Hi, i have just order the p2k, and hoping this motor will work http://www.giantshark.co.uk/product/...runner#Reviews
Carl
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Old Yesterday, 06:56 PM
What place .... is this ???
Australia, SA, Adelaide
Joined Oct 2011
1,390 Posts
Might be a little bit of a squeeze, but should go fine.
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Old Yesterday, 08:34 PM
Registered User
justy g's Avatar
Hong Kong
Joined Jan 2007
777 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by doggit View Post
Hi, i have just order the p2k, and hoping this motor will work http://www.giantshark.co.uk/product/...runner#Reviews
Carl
I would only use a 28mm motor on the P2K..mine gives excellent performance with this motor on 3s.
http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking...ner_Motor.html
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Old Yesterday, 11:58 PM
Voyager
NSASarge's Avatar
United States, NC, Reidsville
Joined Sep 2014
34 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by justy g View Post
I would only use a 28mm motor on the P2K..mine gives excellent performance with this motor on 3s.
http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking...ner_Motor.html
Here is what I'm going to use ...
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=25077

NTM Prop Drive 28-36 1200KV / 530W. I've mounted it in my P2K and have been running it some for testing and setup. Motor gets quite warm after WOT 20 - 30 second runs. Almost too hot to touch. I have the HK 44mm alloy folding prop spinner swinging a 9.5 X 5 carbon fiber prop. The ESC I have chosen is the HK 40A BlueSeries Brushless Speed Controller with a SBEC: 5.5V/ 4A Output.

**TIP** Note that this is a 40 Amp ESC with a 60 Amp burst rating AND an SBEC with 4-Amp output. I have looked at a lot of 40 - 60 amp ESC's and found darn few with a 4A SBEC rating.
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