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Old Sep 22, 2013, 03:03 PM
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Byron F16 Restoration/Conversion

Well I believe the summer is over her in the pacific northwest, meaning rain and a lot of time in the shop. Recently I acquired two Byron models, the F16 and a Mig 15. This will be my first experience with large EDF's. The F16 will be my first project. The F16 came as a complete original airframe only. It had not been flown in many years and had been in storage. Initially it appeared to primarily be in need of a cosmetic upgrade, but as I stripped all the original paint it became apparent that I was in for a project. The removal of paint unveiled numerous cracks in the glass. The wings and stabs had been glassed but seemed quite heavy. I discovered that not only was the glass quite thick but a large amount of resin and filler had been used. I purchased the plane with the intention of completely rebuilding this classic and doing my best to add as much scale detail as possible. This will be my winter project so posts may be slow at times. This will be a learning experience for me and I will be looking for all the help I can get. Here is my plan at this point, open to change at any time.

Dynamax with Scorpion 4035-630
Air Sally intake lip
Yep 120 ESC
12s 2x6s 5000-6000?
A123 flight battery
Arming plug?
Servos TBD
Elect. servo less retracts, struts as scale as possible. I've looked at the Eflite 120 and the Landers ?
New foam wing and stab cores, vacuum bagged with 1/32 balsa and
glassed with .75 cloth/epoxy
Functional air brakes?
Cockpit detail with pilot
Nav. lights and afterburner lights?

I have some ideas about the cheater hole. I have also considered blow in hatches on top of fuse?

Right now I am in the process of collecting components and materials, stripping and repairing cracks in fuse.

I will post some pictures soon.
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Old Sep 23, 2013, 05:51 AM
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Looks good Lt, Your list of ingredients all looks good too. I'll have to try that Evercoat resin. Most auto resins are of the laminatuing type and they lack the wax additive to fully harden, but if you noticed the Evercoat you have says finishing. Thats exactly what you need for a hard cure. The light weight filler looks interesting too. Let us know how it sands.

I can help you out with an arming switch. Try this one.

http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/TW-MS05.html

I am using it on my Regal Eagle Byron conversion and it easily eats over 100 A without getting hot. I also use this smaller one for up to 70A and it works great.

http://www.robotmarketplace.com/prod...NI-SWITCH.html

The big one is a little pricey but its the only good option I have found for high current in that price range.

I also want to eliminate the cheater hole, Although that build is third in line so its not going to happen soon. Keep us posted.

Dean
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Old Sep 23, 2013, 04:41 PM
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Thanks Dean, I checked out the switches, just not sure how I want to go yet? I pulled the corner mold off the outside of the fuse this morning and it turned out good, nice clean corner line I wasnt sure since I was glassing pretty much by feel. I have quite abit more body work to do but I have been planning the rest of the build. One thing I havent figured out yet is the best way to install the horizontal stabs aluminium pivot rods into my new foam cores, prior to balsa skin and glass? The originals where molded into the foam and the foam was much denser. My concern of course is strength to weight issues, I am looking for ideas.

Greg
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Old Sep 23, 2013, 08:19 PM
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Greg it should be fine to just epoxy the aluminum tubes into your new cores. You probably will skin the root area of the cores with balsa or lite ply and that will stiffen everything up well. You look like you are well on your way to being a fine scale builder so trust your intuition and you will be fine. Many years ago an old scale modeler in my club would guide me along, He always told me "build your scale models to fly not to crash" Since then its worked for me. No airframe failures yet. (knockin on wood now!)

Cheers,
Dean
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Old Sep 28, 2013, 02:06 PM
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After searching for landing gear I decided to order the Turnigy all metal F16 style servoless retracts. They are not scale but I just couldn't laydown 400+ dollars for other scale units. Measurement wise they should fit fine and from a cost point it wasn't a big gamble. I have heard from members here on RCG that the springs in the oleo needs to be stiffer. If anyone has any experience with these please share your thoughts.
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Old Sep 30, 2013, 09:29 PM
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Hey nice work on the fiber glass repairs ...smart way to do it .
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Old Oct 22, 2013, 02:35 PM
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I received my HK order and am now in the process trying to figure out the EDF and retract mounting. I immediately ran into an issue that I hadn't considered. I had initially thought I would build the fan mounts to attach to the stock main former and have my Air Sally intake ring flush with the front of the main former. The problem I ran into is the Lander retract units motor protrudes rearward past the front of the main former. Now I am considering mounting the EDF behind the main former with the intake ring resting in the main former from the rear. This will allow the retract motor to clear but I am not sure how this will effect the fans performance? Any input would be great. The pics might explain the situation better.
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Old Oct 22, 2013, 07:25 PM
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Hi Greg, Your idea looks like it will work fine. Anyway you can get that curved radius in front of the hard edge on the fan is what you need. Air Sally does a nice job on those rings, it looks sweet. How are you going to access the fan with it behind the former? will you make a hatch?

Dean
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Old Oct 22, 2013, 07:49 PM
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Greg I just noticed I had these bookmarked. I am always looking for a better electric retract. I have the Landers like you have but they havn't flown yet. I did have to have Tim from RCL send me new pc boards for them though as I had an early version and they didn't work right. These retracts seem beefier and they come with or without a mounting pin. I see some guy's have used 3/8ths robostruts with them. The gear motor mounts conventional so it wouldn't interfere with the inlet ring.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s..._10mm_Pin.html

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s..._10_12kg_.html

Dean
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Old Oct 22, 2013, 09:03 PM
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Dean, thanks for the info I may end up purchasing the retracts, it would solve my clearance problem, plus I may need different struts, after mocking these up I am going to have a hard time getting them to fit up into the fuse without cutting the gear opening larger, up the side of the fuse. The "A" shape of the strut makes the swing wider and they sit wider in the fuse and that is with the smaller wheels and tires! That would also make gear doors more of a problem. I can always use these for another project. As far as the Lander retracts go I have cycled them a number of times and they seem to work well. Greg
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Old Oct 22, 2013, 09:34 PM
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Yea I know what you mean about the gear not retracting far enough to clear the fuse. I seen the same problem on mine. I think what we will need are gears that rotate 90* as they retract but with the axle at the right angle. Not an easy find. Sometimes I wish I was a machinist instead of a carpenter.

Dean
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Old Oct 23, 2013, 08:56 AM
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Yeah would be nice to have the equipment (and skills) to machine custom parts. I think I will be able to cut down the intake rings thickness( from the back side of course) and get it to sit flush against the front of the former instead of pushing it through the back. It will give me the same clearance I have now for dealing with the retract units but a much cleaner fit. I went back and looked at other f16 builds, most did not use an intake ring, but the intake lip adds significant performance to the fan so I will use it one way or another
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Old Oct 24, 2013, 12:05 AM
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The ring is definitely the way to go. I am confident that with enough power the Dynamax will fly this bird well with the gear doors closed. The FSA isn't that far off. I am going to stick with Byron power for mine, mostly because it is a test but I think the Dynamax size will be better in the long run.

Dean
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