Depends on what batteries you have really. Me, I'd go 8S, just becasue that is what I have for my 74 Edge.

Shouldn't be too hard for your wiring. Just need a jumper to go from + to - between your batteries. Then go to each left over side of the batteries to your esc like normal.

Originally Posted by SteveT.

As you know, I really like the Hacker A60-6XS on 6S. I run a 20X10 APC....which is fine for me, but Joe was a bit disappointed with that prop and went to a 20X11 or 21X10 (sorry not sure which), which he says says he has used all summer. If you want to 8S, the the A60-5S is what I am now running in my 74" Edge, but it is four ounces heavier...

I would not go with an ICE light in this size of plane....

SteveT

Originally Posted by UCDme3D

I asked this same question not to long ago before I grabbed my FB Slick!

Ended up choosing 6s because the added power from an 8s is a bit more than necessary, and after talking to Wamsy and a few other guys that I've seen ring out the slick, I decided the added cost of the 8s batteries wasn't worth the added power I would get! I also like that on 6s, with my a50-12l I get to run a 20x10 with no problems, I liked the way it felt over the smaller diameter prop. I use an ICE esc and an external bec..

Good comment on the Ice Lite. I didn't even think of that. This is my first plane of this size.

I guess I was looking at 8s because I have quite a few 4s 4000's already laying around. I have some 6s batts but they are 3000's for my EF 60" Edge and I don't think they'd be enough for this plane as I'm assuming I'd want somethign in the 4000 to 5000 mah range right?

I'm also a little leary of putting a Hacker in this plane. I had one in my original 51" Slick and didn't love it... and it ultimately died on me mid flight and caused some damage. But it sounds like you guys are happy with the large hackers?

If you have 4s4000's then go 8s. Use a standalone BEC, pull the red wire from the Ice if you use an ice 100. (not lite). Or from any ESC with built in BEC, pull the red wire if using a standalone one also.

If going 8s you are looking for a motor with a kv in the 280-310 range. 280 if you want to run a 20" prop, 310 if you want to run an 18" prop.

Originally Posted by turnerm

One more thing though... I've never done any wiring for running batteries in a series. Is there an easy way to accomplish this with APP's? I'm thinking I'll still need to solder some wires together right?

With APP there is no need for additional harness when using two packs in series. Just plug the pos lead from the first pack into the neg lead of the second pack, then use the remaining leads from each pack to connect to your esc (pack one will be neg and pack two would be pos).

I do this with 2 5S packs for a Heli. Since I don't use those packs for anythnig else and have a 10S charger I just leave them connected in this 10S config all the time.

I'd also use a full ICE 100 and skip the lite for this application as others have said.

Originally Posted by turnerm

Good comment on the Ice Lite. I didn't even think of that. This is my first plane of this size.

I guess I was looking at 8s because I have quite a few 4s 4000's already laying around. I have some 6s batts but they are 3000's for my EF 60" Edge and I don't think they'd be enough for this plane as I'm assuming I'd want somethign in the 4000 to 5000 mah range right?

I'm also a little leary of putting a Hacker in this plane. I had one in my original 51" Slick and didn't love it... and it ultimately died on me mid flight and caused some damage. But it sounds like you guys are happy with the large hackers?

Motrolfly 4325-280 With a 20x8 prop rocks this plane. I'm running both 4s 4000's and 4s 4500's in series and get easily 8 minutes or more and the motor never comes down more than warm to the touch.

Originally Posted by weaser42

With APP there is no need for additional harness when using two packs in series. Just plug the pos lead from the first pack into the neg lead of the second pack, then use the remaining leads from each pack to connect to your esc (pack one will be neg and pack two would be pos).

I do this with 2 5S packs for a Heli. Since I don't use those packs for anythnig else and have a 10S charger I just leave them connected in this 10S config all the time.

I'd also use a full ICE 100 and skip the lite for this application as others have said.

Sorry but I'm pretty dense when it comes to this stuff. Can you take a picture of exactly how you're doing this so I can make sure I fully understand?

It's great that I won't have to worry about using a special wiring harness though!

Originally Posted by jetinteriorguy

Motrolfly 4325-280 With a 20x8 prop rocks this plane. I'm running both 4s 4000's and 4s 4500's in series and get easily 8 minutes or more and the motor never comes down more than warm to the touch.

Awesome! That's the route I had originally envisioned! Since I already have several 4s 4000's for my 57" Extra I'll just go this route as it will save me some money on batteries. Plus it sound like a great setup too!

I would send Ken an email and ask about that new 4330 motor. I believe it has an extra set of bearings in it. Looks like it will be available in 6s and 8s kv options.

Originally Posted by tominator06

I would send Ken an email and ask about that new 4330 motor. I believe it has an extra set of bearings in it. Looks like it will be available in 6s and 8s kv options.

Good idea. I'll ask him what he recommends for an 8s setup on this plane.

Originally Posted by weaser42

With APP there is no need for additional harness when using two packs in series. Just plug the pos lead from the first pack into the neg lead of the second pack, then use the remaining leads from each pack to connect to your esc (pack one will be neg and pack two would be pos).

I do this with 2 5S packs for a Heli. Since I don't use those packs for anythnig else and have a 10S charger I just leave them connected in this 10S config all the time.

I'd also use a full ICE 100 and skip the lite for this application as others have said.

Are you talking about something like this??

Originally Posted by tominator06

I would send Ken an email and ask about that new 4330 motor. I believe it has an extra set of bearings in it. Looks like it will be available in 6s and 8s kv options.

I've got one coming to go onto my 71" Slick. Has a 4325 on there currently, keeping roughly the same kv (about 10kv higher on the 4330). Will be interesting to see the motor differences, and motor temp differences too.
FYI the new 4330 is $189, the 4325's are $169.

Originally Posted by jetinteriorguy

Motrolfly 4325-280 With a 20x8 prop rocks this plane. I'm running both 4s 4000's and 4s 4500's in series and get easily 8 minutes or more and the motor never comes down more than warm to the touch.

Heat management has become very important as far as equipment selection. That is a main issue on set/ups IMO. I like the higher cell counts but don't like the weight that comes with it.

I'm pretty happy with my new A60 which just replaced my deceased A50. The A50 always came down really hot after what I would call just moderate 3D flying. I put my first four flights on the A60 today, with the outside temperature at about 50 deg. F. The first 2 flights were with GensAce 60C 6S5300s used only this summer. I was amazed at the pullout acceleration/speed (multiple times) from hover that I got compared to what I use to get from the A50. I really liked how cool the motor was after the flight. The only negative is that I think I might get about a minute less time per flight. When I switched to my 2 year old/100 plus flights GensAce 30C 6S 5300s, I got about the same vertical pullout, but I got less of those pullouts, as the batteries seemed to run out much faster and they came down almost hot. I don't know about my airfield's altitude; but, I'm about 40 miles west of Chicago and not in any mountains. Like Steve T. said, I think the A60-6X /Xoar 20x10 is going to fit my style of flying just fine; but, I'm definitely going to try a 21x10 to see what happens. That's 'cause Joe's my Idol.

Originally Posted by alfabeast

Heat management has become very important as far as equipment selection. That is a main issue on set/ups IMO. I like the higher cell counts but don't like the weight that comes with it.

Higher cell count dosn't necessarily mean more weight. As voltage goes up you can get the same if not more flight time from a smaller capacity batt. Just pick the particular batt weight you like and find one with the higher cell count that weighs the same and you'll actually get a little more flight time due to increased efficiency. It's due to energy density. Now there are variables here that may make small differences but as a general rule this holds true. When I bought my 70" Slick it came with a 6s setup and the two 3s 5000 mah batts it was flying on weighed the same as my two 4s 4000 mah batts but the 8s gets better performance and better flight times.

Originally Posted by ryan_m

I've got one coming to go onto my 71" Slick. Has a 4325 on there currently, keeping roughly the same kv (about 10kv higher on the 4330). Will be interesting to see the motor differences, and motor temp differences too.
FYI the new 4330 is $189, the 4325's are $169.

Can you take a picture of it when you get it? Thanks.