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Old Dec 03, 2013, 09:27 AM
AMA 983978
United States, FL, Jacksonville
Joined Sep 2011
133 Posts
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Originally Posted by rhodesengr View Post
Cool. So does your mod to open up the cowl address Watdazit's comment about not being able to use the standard the motor mount?
I'm not sure (other then the concerns he voiced around the condition of his supplied motor mount) why he wasn't able to use it, but I used it without any issue (other then the need to open the cowl slightly as mentioned)
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Old Dec 03, 2013, 01:14 PM
A geriatric flier
Australia, NSW, Braidwood
Joined Nov 2008
681 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by MikePS View Post
I'm not sure (other then the concerns he voiced around the condition of his supplied motor mount) why he wasn't able to use it, but I used it without any issue (other then the need to open the cowl slightly as mentioned)
The Power 52 motor is longer and fouled the cowl with the standard motor box. By moving the motor back I maintained the cowl overlap of the fire wall and cockpit and did not have to make any adjustments to the cowl.
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Old Dec 03, 2013, 01:40 PM
AMA 983978
United States, FL, Jacksonville
Joined Sep 2011
133 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Watdazit View Post
The Power 52 motor is longer and fouled the cowl with the standard motor box. By moving the motor back I maintained the cowl overlap of the fire wall and cockpit and did not have to make any adjustments to the cowl.
+1 on that. The 52 is 80mm in length, the 60 is 62mm. Kinda like me, short and big around
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Old Dec 04, 2013, 02:10 AM
A geriatric flier
Australia, NSW, Braidwood
Joined Nov 2008
681 Posts
This thread really should be split into "Meridian" and "Evo 10". Anyway I was going to use the Evo 10 in the Meridian and I bought one but decided to go electric. The Evo 10 is now in Stick 40 which I have just maidened. I have only had one problem with the Evo 10 when it went dead stick when the tube between the tank and muffler had a hole in it caused by it rubbing up against the motor. This caused the loss of pressure to the tank. That don't happen with electrics!!!!
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Old Feb 18, 2014, 03:33 AM
A geriatric flier
Australia, NSW, Braidwood
Joined Nov 2008
681 Posts
I have now gone back to using an Evo 10 in the Meridian. Can I ask please what prop are you pilots using with this motor. When I had the Evo 10 in a Stick 40 I used a 12 x 8 which seemed to work OK.
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Old Mar 30, 2014, 06:14 PM
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370gtsp's Avatar
Japan, Kyoto Prefecture, Kyotanabe
Joined May 2011
35 Posts
Slow flight

Hangar9 Meridian 10cc ARF SAITO FG-14 (3 min 0 sec)


Slow flight flap
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Old Mar 30, 2014, 08:23 PM
A geriatric flier
Australia, NSW, Braidwood
Joined Nov 2008
681 Posts
Tight landing area and the power lines overhead!!!!!

PS Can you post a photo of the engine installation please? How much of the canopy did you have to cut away?
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Old Yesterday, 04:21 PM
A geriatric flier
Australia, NSW, Braidwood
Joined Nov 2008
681 Posts
It seems all the excitement has gone out of this plane. Not much movement in posts.

My covering has started to delaminate. The clear glossy skin has come off in a number of areas. Anyone else had this problem and is there anything to be done or I am eventually looking at a recovering job? At this point I cannot see there is anything to be achieved by taking it up with Hanger 9. They will go to ground if it is a common problem and as usual we the consumer will pay for their problem. I have heard of it happening with other planes covered with Oracover.
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Old Yesterday, 04:28 PM
Registered User
Canada, QC, Pointe-Claire
Joined Jun 2011
331 Posts
Well, in my case the excitement is soon to begin. I have a brand new Meridian in queue for the workbench. All components as per build manual. Expect this to go together without too much fuss.
But any tips / warnings / advises are more than welcome and appreciated
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Old Yesterday, 04:39 PM
Registered User
United Kingdom, England, Shrewsbury
Joined Oct 2012
34 Posts
I've seen no specific problem with the covering on mine, after a little over a year.

I still love my Meridian, as I find it a really nice flyer. Technically, though, I'm on my second. An issue with the tank (which has been ongoing) led to a dead-stick landing into a ploughed field recently and rather than patch her up, I bought a new kit and transferred everything across.
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Old Yesterday, 04:45 PM
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United Kingdom, England, Shrewsbury
Joined Oct 2012
34 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by teckbot View Post
But any tips / warnings / advises are more than welcome and appreciated
My number one tip - replace the collet screw in the steering arm with a 3mm socket cap screw and don't forget the thread lock. I forgot the thread lock when I built my second and was harshly reminded when I lost the ability to steer on the ground. Fortunately, no harm done and she's fixed, now, but it's a PITA stripping the front end down because of the simple oversight. The cap screw means you can tighten it up much more effectively.
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Old Yesterday, 04:48 PM
A geriatric flier
Australia, NSW, Braidwood
Joined Nov 2008
681 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by smorgo View Post
I..........Technically, though, I'm on my second. An issue with the tank (which has been ongoing) led to a dead-stick landing into a ploughed field recently and rather than patch her up, I bought a new kit and transferred everything across.
I have constantly had problems with dead sticks with my Evo 10 in the Meridian. One week the engine is great and the next week it's a dog. What was your trouble with the tank. I have virtually given up with this motor, as has another pilot at my club and I am going back to electric.
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Old Yesterday, 05:09 PM
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United Kingdom, England, Shrewsbury
Joined Oct 2012
34 Posts
With the first tank, I stripped the thread in the backing plate for the stopper. Brunofporto helped me with a fix, but I felt the need for something more permanent, so I bought a new tank with a new stopper.

I discovered that there was fuel seeping around the pipes when the engine was running and the pickup tube had developed a small hole, so I'm surprised the engine ran at all!

I wanted to try the Sullivan aluminium stopper and paid a small fortune for one, but it just didn't fit. I ended up with a Frankenstein-arrangement combining the front plate from the original, a Kavan bung and the alumimium Sullivan back plate. What I didn't realise (until it came out on take-off) was that, due to the long neck on the Meridian tank, tightening up the stopper was actually forcing it out, not in!

So, now I'm back to an original stopper. I've soldered Du-bro barbs onto the replacement brass tubes and I've been careful not to over-tighten. So far, it looks good.

I have to say, I've had no trouble at all with the engine. All of my running problems have either been due to the tank or (in the early days) a loose spark plug cap. I have to take responsibility for both.

I think it's definitely worth going over the fuel supply with a fine-toothed comb. My guess is that it's responsible for 90% of problems with that engine.
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Old Yesterday, 05:29 PM
EIEIEIO Classic is dway ta go!
flyinwalenda's Avatar
Northeast Pa. .Heyna or No?
Joined Aug 2009
1,757 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by teckbot View Post
Well, in my case the excitement is soon to begin. I have a brand new Meridian in queue for the workbench. All components as per build manual. Expect this to go together without too much fuss.
But any tips / warnings / advises are more than welcome and appreciated
Read through my blog thread. There are a few tips in there for you(and others).
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1798085
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Old Yesterday, 05:38 PM
Registered User
Canada, QC, Pointe-Claire
Joined Jun 2011
331 Posts
Hey guys, the thread is alive again!
Thanks for the tips so far. flyinwalenda - Great build log! Just skimmed through it, but i will read in detail as i get closer to the task.
Thanks
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