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Old Sep 15, 2013, 10:01 AM
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Bradford West Yorkshire, UK
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Nice one Al, missed that one although 72, obviously Muddle Boats. Mk 2 version looks orrible.

Regards Ian.
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Old Oct 17, 2013, 08:53 PM
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United States, NY, Buffalo
Joined Oct 2003
640 Posts
Made plans for the Gyspy today

I ad plans made for a 25 inch and a 35 inch Gyspy. Looks to be an interesting model to build for both on the mantle and in the water.

Thanks for and interesting piece of History.
Rich
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Old Oct 21, 2013, 07:31 PM
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Canada, MB, Brandon
Joined Jan 2003
499 Posts
Chris Craft Barrel Back

I'm in need of a set of plans for the Chris Craft Barrel Back. Anyone know where I might buy these plans?

Thanks,
Bill
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Old Oct 27, 2013, 06:53 AM
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South Africa, WC, Gans Bay
Joined Feb 2013
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V Twin Steam Engine

Hi - Anyone out there got a plan for a simple (small) V twin Oscillator Steam Engine - (8mm bore or smaller) - to be run off a simple pot boiler . Jane's single type pattern would be an example with the folded brass frame.

Finally have the plans for JE Janes Turbine from Practical Mechanics - will be scanned & posted soon.

redpmg
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Old Nov 06, 2013, 02:35 AM
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South Africa, WC, Gans Bay
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Hi , anyone out there got the article that went with the Riva Aquarama plan from the April 97 issue of Marine Modelling. Bought one on Ebay and it turned out to be the Feb 97 issue with the Riva plan tucked into it which was not much help as I now have the plan without the article , Thanks in anticipation -
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Old Feb 02, 2014, 11:30 AM
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The windy west coast of Sweden
Joined Sep 2008
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Carioca documented

A great thanks (!) to Ian (Circlip) for fiddling my Carioca scans together..!
Thus, we've now got a set of workable plans for this little racer, designed for small I/C engines or electric power.

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Old Feb 03, 2014, 06:43 AM
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Bradford West Yorkshire, UK
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Pleasure mate (I think )

Good to keep older designs in view.

Regards Ian.
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Old Feb 21, 2014, 05:15 AM
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Another "Oldie". On another forum, a request for identification of a "Little Red Boat" was solved by recognition of a "Hobbies" design from 1955 and thanks to "Vintage" and at sometimes exasperating efforts to get the correct scans, with a bit of a reshuffle from the original layout, the following evolved. Sadly he didn't have March 9th 1955 edition of "Hobbies Weekly" so part two of the build is missing, if anyone can oblige, please PM.

Hobbies also did a Cabin Cruiser design which possibly used the same hull.

Regards Ian.

Edit. For those who know not of the "Closed Loop" steering systems I keep banging on about, here is a classic example.
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Old Feb 21, 2014, 05:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Circlip View Post
Edit. For those who know not of the "Closed Loop" steering systems I keep banging on about, here is a classic example.
Love the boat - this is modelling as it really started.... incidentally, there is another closed loop example at the bottom of this page - a really good way to R/C the very small boats where there is little space for a push-rod...


http://eezebilt.co.vu/radio.html
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Last edited by dodgy; Apr 26, 2014 at 02:38 AM. Reason: changed URL
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Old Feb 23, 2014, 06:47 AM
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Blackpool, Lancs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dodgy View Post
Love the boat - this is modelling as it really started.... incidentally, there is another closed loop example at the bottom of this page - a really good way to R/C the very small boats where there is little space for a push-rod...


http://eezebilt.hobby-site.com/radio.html
Looking at the closed loop in the link, would it be easier to fix the line centre to the tiller arm, then thread the ends through the servo arm holes a bit like on a bowsie in yacht rigging? It should then just be a case of pulling the lines tight and applying a dab of superglue.
Just thinking aloud as someone who has never mastered the art of putting a working knot where I want it.
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Old Feb 24, 2014, 07:13 AM
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Advantage of closed loop is that you don't really need a tiller (for below deck operation) as by fitting a pulley to the rudder shaft, pinning the line to the centre and adding a clockwise and anti clockwise loop to the two sides of the cable around this pulley ensures a non slip connection to this. The two loose ends of the loop can be joined together anywhere in the loop, not necessarily at the servo, all that's required is a connection (Clamp?) from the line to the servo arm/disc.

Regards Ian.
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Old Feb 24, 2014, 09:07 AM
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Blackpool, Lancs
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Agreed, but it depends on the layout - there might not be room aft of the rudder post for a pulley. It just struck me that the loose ends could terminate at the servo arm and provide a very simple method of fixing and trimming/adjustment by threading through the holes provided. A pulley on the servo would probably be even better. The system used to work quite well on tuning dials in the days of steam radio.
I've had a small " Ocean Research" kit sat looking at my consience for a while now - you guys have probably given me the clue I needed. Thanks.
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Old Feb 25, 2014, 06:43 AM
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Also, don't forget that screw eyes can change the direction of run angularly and that you don't have to use pulleys to guide the cable, Bits of bent tube are useful.

Loops don't have to run down both sides of the boat/aircraft, they can be routed with suitable guides down one side or the other.

Regards Ian
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Old Mar 10, 2014, 04:07 PM
pat1342
Joined Mar 2014
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E Z Craft Models

I have the packaging and plans in fairly good condition of PT 77. See attached. It appears to be early 1950's
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Old Mar 12, 2014, 11:39 AM
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Johnstown, PA
Joined Feb 2004
86 Posts
Another closed loop tip...

Thanks for the nice info and materials on the closed loop control systems gents! I use a closed loop system for sail control on all my R/C yachts (my 12" footys up to and including my 59" EC12)... neat, reliable, and simple to set up and adjust.

Something I learned from soaring buddies: for things like rudder control -- things without huge amounts of pull required -- if the working end of the loop is made fast to the tiller or pulley, the control end can easily be adjusted if, like mfr02 says, you just run the control end of the lines through the servo arm holes but then, rather than glue them, put a wrap under the arm retaining screw. (Be sure you wrap it clockwise, not the other way.)

They stay fast and they're still extremely easy to adjust.
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