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Old Nov 29, 2012, 02:01 PM
Team WarpSquad
Daryoon's Avatar
San Diego, CA
Joined Dec 2010
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If the wagging heli has a lower sounding head speed. Perhaps it's the motor starting to go and causing the wag?

As far as the play on the blade grip. Yeah, they like it a little on the sloppy side. Surprising huh?
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Old Nov 29, 2012, 02:06 PM
Safety : practice & promote!
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I wondered about the motor as well. It definitely has a lower sounding head speed. There's a neat little Android app that you can get which attempts to determine the head speed of the blades by listening to the pitch. I should check that out.
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Old Nov 29, 2012, 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Daryoon View Post
As far as the play on the blade grip. Yeah, they like it a little on the sloppy side. Surprising huh?
No not really... it allows flapping, which we need...

http://www.dynamicflight.com/aerodynamics/flapping/

And when it's not flapping, the centrifugal force is enough to keep the blade straight.
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Old Nov 29, 2012, 02:36 PM
2 seconds from crashing
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United States, WA, Seattle
Joined Sep 2007
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Originally Posted by Santley View Post
indoorheli Thank you very much for the push. I got my Nano back from Horizon Hobby today! It was the main board that would let it squirt off in any direction. It flew well for a couple week then slowly I was unable to control it more and more. I’m just happy to know it wasn’t me.
glad you got it back working as it should They do for the most part have way above and beyond service, only rarely do I read of someone not 100% satisfied with the repair service
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No not really... it allows flapping, which we need....
If i look at all my other heli rotors none need horizontal slop to get flapping.

My theory on the nano and the sloppy head that it likes is the bearings get compressed too easily and is why they require a minimum distance between grips and head. I find the ideal distance for me by tightening the head until the bearings get notchy then back off until i cant feel any notchiness.

Dampers i believe are more what helps with flapping on model helis
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Old Nov 29, 2012, 04:44 PM
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United States, MA, Northampton
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Originally Posted by RoboHeli View Post
I just got off the phone with HH. They recommended that the blade grips should have about 1mm of play on them when you tighten the feathering shaft. He also said that the swashplate comes with o-rings on the balls that connect it to the servos but that it's worth a try putting some o-rings on all of the other balls. I've got a few MSRX o-rings as well as a ton of MCX canopy o-rings that I can try out.
Same here - I've been saving all the little black o-rings from my worn out mSR X blade grips before I'd toss them out, and I'd put them in my bag o' spares.

There's a guy with a s/n radiocontronics on that popular auction web site that sells red silicone o-ring dampers, for our Blade micro sized helis - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Blade-nCPX-G...item257639941d - The three on the swash may not be necessary b/c the swash already has o-ring dampers, but if you want to dress it up, then the three big red ones that come in the set are meant for that. Each set is only 3 bucks w/ free shipping, so I just might pick up half a dozen sets for my two nCP Xs and mSR Xs.
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Old Nov 29, 2012, 05:04 PM
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Or you can get these:
http://www.topcopter.com/ncpx-grommet-mod-p/hdkt1.htm
Work great!
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Old Nov 29, 2012, 05:12 PM
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United States, AZ, Mesa
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If i look at all my other heli rotors none need horizontal slop to get flapping.

Dampers i believe are more what helps with flapping on model helis
Yeah but i didn't want to explain all that. The dampers work when you have heavier blades, but i think these blades are so light, we have to introduce play elsewhere.
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Old Nov 29, 2012, 07:32 PM
Safety : practice & promote!
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Originally Posted by RoboHeli View Post
I just got off the phone with HH. They recommended that the blade grips should have about 1mm of play on them when you tighten the feathering shaft.

Good news!!! That fixed it! (At least for one battery...)

I just took my wagging-tail Nano and loosened the feathering shaft until I was able to get about 1mm of play between the blade grips if I pulled gently on them. Then I took it for a flight and there was NO, I repeat, NO tail wagging at all! Woo hoo!

I've still got 2 more batteries charged from last night so I'll run them through this heli to make sure that this was in fact the solution.
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Old Nov 29, 2012, 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by RoboHeli View Post
Good news!!! That fixed it! (At least for one battery...)

I just took my wagging-tail Nano and loosened the feathering shaft until I was able to get about 1mm of play between the blade grips if I pulled gently on them. Then I took it for a flight and there was NO, I repeat, NO tail wagging at all! Woo hoo!

I've still got 2 more batteries charged from last night so I'll run them through this heli to make sure that this was in fact the solution.
That's great to hear - I needed to replace my spindle, and I also felt that ratcheting feeling on both grips, so I backed the nut off until it disappeared. I need to pick up some more Elmer's glue though; I used some Shoe Goo instead on the end threads where it sticks out of the nut.

I'm pretty sure that the white glue would be easier to work with inside the blade grip, b/c the Shoe Goo is a lot thicker. I used the end of a paper clip, like I'd want to with the PVA, and although it was tricky, and more messy, it did the job. I say this b/c it took longer to clean out the excess goo and make sure that it wouldn't gum up the movement of the blade root.

Do anyone have a different trick to add the PVA or rubber cemement to the ends of the spindle thread? Or - an easier way using Shoe Goo?
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Old Nov 29, 2012, 08:46 PM
2 seconds from crashing
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Originally Posted by jasmine2501 View Post
Yeah but i didn't want to explain all that. The dampers work when you have heavier blades, but i think these blades are so light, we have to introduce play elsewhere.
I think while the weight does come into play the hardness of the dampers matters too. I have been flying with no horizontal play in the grips (no binding) and havent had any wag or vibes on all the nano's I have had. They have always been super solid until i bend something

I think HH suggest 1mm gap mainly that it assures the end user doesnt have over tightened grips.....could be wrong though
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Old Nov 29, 2012, 09:21 PM
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Yeah 1 whole millimeter of play is kinda loose. Mine are tighter than that.
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Old Nov 29, 2012, 09:26 PM
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Originally Posted by jasmine2501 View Post
Yeah 1 whole millimeter of play is kinda loose. Mine are tighter than that.
+3 to that; I just backed the nut off until the ratcheting stopped. Mine's tight too - I personally hate any slop and play.
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Old Nov 29, 2012, 09:59 PM
Time To Fly The Best!
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Hills of Eastern Ohio
Joined Nov 2008
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Finally recovered my YouTube account and got rid of the interfering old account! Took me another two hours tonight, just finished with it a half hour ago...


So here is a just hovering, playing around, testing the tailboom fix, different radio settings, in the cold garage last night, Flight.


Nano CPX Garage Session (3 min 46 sec)
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Old Nov 29, 2012, 10:07 PM
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United States, CO, Longmont
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Originally Posted by heritageflyer View Post
Finally recovered my YouTube account and got rid of the interfering old account! Took me another two hours tonight, just finished with it a half hour ago...


So here is a just hovering, playing around, testing the tailboom fix, different radio settings, in the cold garage last night, Flight.


http://youtu.be/DdlcJdFjFzU
I need to fix my tailboom before I can fly anymore
what was your fix?
thanks
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Old Nov 29, 2012, 10:31 PM
Time To Fly The Best!
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Hills of Eastern Ohio
Joined Nov 2008
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Originally Posted by brushless55 View Post
I need to fix my tailboom before I can fly anymore
what was your fix?
thanks
Well this time it was broke free 3/8" behind the frame, re injured.

When I broke it originally, motor cut off and it went in tail first. It bent up bad, bowed bad. Took it out of the Frame socket and let it sit for a day. It kind of straightened itself out, relaxed the fibers. Then I helped it the rest of the way (carefully) and lightly thin soaked it with CA. Waited a minute and hit it lightly with Kicker. Probably stronger than original, but CA is still brittle, so re snapped it in one spot and thin CA'd again over the outside area of where it broke free and was trying to splinter again.

You can also take thread and wrap around it and thin soak them. I just wicked it on the outside of the boom all over (lightly). I have a spare motor and boom, but will fly this until absolutely impossible to fix straight.

I got a lot of practice on tailboom repair on the MCPX.
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