ok, secondary thought was maybe thrust doesent really need to be vectored as much as rotation of the air mass be straightened but i guess that might bring up more issues then it would solve by reducing the thrust of the exiting airflow with the parasitic drag caused by the mechanism. intresting conumdrum, could small vg's be put in such a way as to adhere more of the airflow to the surface maybe reducing the suspected aerodynamic rotational forces on the trailing edge?

Personally, i think it has nothing to do with the rotational air from the edf units (if the air column even does rotate). I think the turbines exhaust velocity and expanding air column act like a vertical stabilizer which stabilizes the wing. Since the edf versions dont have as high an efflux veloctiy or the expanding air column, the rely on the thrust extensions to provide the stability. Lol

The new power systems are assembled and tested. I still need to install the mounting tabs to the fan shroud, but its all together and working. Its a tight fit getting the CC ice2 120HV's in the tamjet tailcones!

now your talkin...

Now if robart would get off their keesters and get the new nose gear stuff shipped, i would have nearly everything to finisu this thing!

I was going to call Robart today for an update.

So i got an email from a buddy.....

Anyone interested in a 120mm size Saab Draken kit!?

Im thinking fiberglass fuse, composite vertical fin and possible sheeted foam core wings, maybe composite, not sure.

Thoughts?


As far as the horton goes, but edf units are complete with their mounting tabs hysol'd in place. The inlet ring has been replaced as well. All i am waiting on, is the flite-metal to arrive so i can finish that, then i can finish painting this beast!

I also soldered up tte series connector with the anti-spark connector as well.

When it comes to the small anti-spark connector with the resistor, do you unplug that once your plug in the main connector before flying, or do you leave them both connected for the flight?

Leave them both it, disconnect, makes no difference. The main connectors short out the resistor anyway, so no electricity flows through it.
If you disconnect it, you have a connector pair floating around in the fuse.

What ESCs are you using?

Ah ok

I have CC ice2 120hv's. in addition to the esc battery connector, there's another 4" of wire to each battery connector. I dont think i need to run another bank of capacitor.

#2 is slowly catching up to #1. It has 99% of the building completed on it, the only thing left is to do the body work for the inlet rings(they have been installed now) and to epoxy in place the fan unit mount tabs. Otherwise, it is completely "built" and only requires paint and equipment install!




#1 is still waiting on flite-metal to arrive so I can finish it up. Its new (matching) inlet ring was installed on the right side and the body work done. The fan units also had their mounting tabs epoxied to the shrouds as well.

Today I went about installing the clear canopy.

The canopy was trimmed to shape slightly over-size of what you would see. continue reading..

Then i had to cut out the clear canopy area's. The canopy frame has two molded lines, the outer edge of the frame, and then the inner side of the frame where the clear glass starts. The windscreen has three, but you still trim it out to the inner-inner most line.


Then the canopy was placed into position so it overlapped the inner-most edge of the canopy frame by about 3/16" and then the outline of the clear glass was traced onto the canopy frame and windscreen frame.
Using a rotary file, a trench is sanded into the canopy/windscreen frames for the clear canopy molding to sit into so it is flush with the surface:


Then the canopy and windscreen was glued into position with some foam-safe CA (keeps the clear canopy from fogging):



Once all that dries, i'll applly some clear silicon to the center section/canopy frame molding to clear canopy corner joint. Then the canopy and windscreen will be taped off. Then the tape will be trimmed to follow the outline of the inner edge of the frame, any body work necessary will be done (to ensure the clear canopy is completely flush with the surface) and then a flite-metal frame will be applied.

Originally Posted by heiner

Thrust vectoring is possible to control these EDF instability. Uwe set in some rudders inside the thrust tubes of his HO-229V3 and programmed them as a rudder. But as far as I know he was not completely satisfied with this solution. It was much better than nothing, and no tube extension were needed.

Heiner

..... ups, too late .......

Interestingly the ONLY other IX I've seen fly like Uwes' is Keith Shaws'. V2
built in '92 :-). Whilst lumbered with a LOT of Nicads.
But he has yet to share his accomplishments .
No one.. (other than Uwe) has even come close to those performance levels By my observations at least.
But there's always hope .
Perhaps a pair of 5 KW motors ?.. for the speed part at least.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...807493&page=21

Originally Posted by Bare

Interestingly the ONLY other IX I've seen fly like Uwes' is Keith Shaws'. V2
built in '92 :-). Whilst lumbered with a LOT of Nicads.
But he has yet to share his accomplishments .
No one.. (other than Uwe) has even come close to those performance levels By my observations at least.
But there's always hope .
Perhaps a pair of 5 KW motors ?.. for the speed part at least.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...807493&page=21

The first prototype will have around 8kw of available power now. Speed shouldnt be a problem since there is very little form drag with this design.

good work you guy's do i like keep cheap & simple real good flier

FliteMetal done!




And now for you guys in the know (john, heiner, etc)..

7.5* AoA


OR

10.5* AoA?

That nose strut looks just about right. Very Happy with that.