Originally Posted by ko2610

My v2 fw 0.58 has one bug: with auto record on, loop recording on (5min clips) and auto-shutoff enabled it records one 5min clip and one clip depending on the auto-shutoff time setting. Then it turns off.
As a workaround I set auto-shutoff off and it records as supposed, just needs to be turned off manually.

can confirm this - same here with my v2-cam on 0.58, turned off auto-shutoff now.

Just a quick question. Has the Grey Shift Bug been fixed on the #16 yet?

Comparing a friend's 'A' lens #16 with my #18, the #16 is superior (sharper focus and also less 'sharpening' in software) but the one thing that stops me getting one is that Grey Shift bug. Which he gets a lot and which I have never been able to reproduce on my #18 ever.

Originally Posted by Brandigan

Just a quick question. Has the Grey Shift Bug been fixed on the #16 yet?

Comparing a friend's 'A' lens #16 with my #18, the #16 is superior (sharper focus and also less 'sharpening' in software) but the one thing that stops me getting one is that Grey Shift bug. Which he gets a lot and which I have never been able to reproduce on my #18 ever.

It's still there when white balance is set for auto, but with the new fixed white balance settings you can lock it in so it doesn't shift. Many people use the "Fluorescent" setting and add there preferences to warm or cool the hue, add contrast or saturation, etc.

Originally Posted by Isoprop

Very interesting finding

The LED doesn't automatically turn red, you have to release the power button after about 4-5 seconds while the LED is still yellow. Like you say, the detection is very sensitive and almost immediate. I guess this is one of the developer's hidden features, but may be useful to someone.

So why keep this feature hidden and not make it available from the settings and have 3 choices something like: Sensitive, Normal (actual sensitive) and Low?
Maybe not so stable? Because I already saw here most people are using ant talking only about the most sensitive setup and want more than that.

Originally Posted by Tom Frank

It's still there when white balance is set for auto, but with the new fixed white balance settings you can lock it in so it doesn't shift. Many people use the "Fluorescent" setting and add there preferences to warm or cool the hue, add contrast or saturation, etc.

Ah OK, thanks. I assume my #18 uses 'auto' - haven't updated the firmware for 6 months - and both cameras use the same CMOS sensor (or did I misremember that?) so a little surprised you even have to 'work around it' though, TBH.

I bought my #16 over a year ago and have had problems with corrupt videos. I see there is new firmware. I downloaded the GUI but honestly my computer skills stop at Turing it on. I saw step by step instructions in post #4. Do I have to do this to update the firmware or can I use the GUI?

Originally Posted by Brandigan

Ah OK, thanks. I assume my #18 uses 'auto' - haven't updated the firmware for 6 months - and both cameras use the same CMOS sensor (or did I misremember that?) so a little surprised you even have to 'work around it' though, TBH.

I'm pretty sure the #11 uses the same CMOS imager. I don't know about the #18, but it could be using a fixed white balance setting as well. I just find the saturation on the #18 to be a bit "above normal" to my eye, but many people like that because it looks so vivid and colorful. But to my eye it's nat as natural looking.

Originally Posted by Mtz

So why keep this feature hidden and not make it available from the settings and have 3 choices something like: Sensitive, Normal (actual sensitive) and Low?
Maybe not so stable? Because I already saw here most people are using ant talking only about the most sensitive setup and want more than that.

This has nothing to do with the sensitivity or ability to select it the config settings. It's simply the fact that the motion detection works with BOTH video and photo modes! Once the camera boots in motion detect mode, when it is not actively shooting video, it can be toggled to photo mode with the power button as you normally would, hence the red LED. It's just a little tricky when to press the power button to toggle to photo mode when it's looking for motion.

Originally Posted by fierce

I bought my #16 over a year ago and have had problems with corrupt videos. I see there is new firmware. I downloaded the GUI but honestly my computer skills stop at Turing it on. I saw step by step instructions in post #4. Do I have to do this to update the firmware or can I use the GUI?

You can use the GUI to update the firmware. It guides you through the process.

Thanks Tom, I was 90% sure it would but I didn't want to brick it.

Wow, I love the new firmware and the V3.0 loader. I love being able to now specify 4x3 live video feed and still be able to record the 720p -- no more black stripes. Thank you!

Originally Posted by Tom Frank

The camera can ONLY put it's native 16:9 image into the locked 4:3 video out frame (producing black bars top and bottom), or stretch that 16:9 image vertically to make it 4:3 and fill the entire 4:3 frame in the video out stream. Whatever happens after that to resize it must be done by the display device.

The official term for this is normally "anamorphic widescreen". It's widely used in SD broadcasts especially in Europe, and also anamorphic widescreen DVDs since 1990s. And normally it DOES increase video information (in relation to 4:3 letterbox).

But after judging the video output quality from 808, I am wondering if they did this by letterboxing video first, then removing the letterbox and stretching the remaining information to fill the frame, which makes typically no sense whatsoever... (But perhaps it's the only way to implement this in firmware updates, I have no idea.) Of course the better way would be just outputting the original 16:9 video full frame in anamorphic widescreen ("stretched into 4:3" if you will, that's the observed effect).

Originally Posted by Patchitagain

@kenci

Yes, you can power it with an external battery.. I opened up the case and soldered leads to the battery and extended the cable out the back of the unit using a JST connector.. Works great, with run times approaching 8 hours with the right battery/memory combo.. Now I can charge both the camera and external battery with my regular lipo charger.

Paul

Can you or someone else recommend me LIPO battery which can power the camera for about 5 hours or more? But still as small as it can be. Best from ebay with free shipping. I have tested Li-ion 1800 mAh (from mobile phone) and it can power it only for 90 to 110 min. It was written earlier that Li-ion is not good because it is working with smaller voltage range or something like that, so the camera shuts off earlier than the battery is fully discharged.

That battery with your specifications(5 hours and still small, and best from ebay and free shipping)is not invented .....yet.

Does anyone know what the battery connector is? I'd like to make an extension/splitter that will plug in.