|Nov 28, 2013, 11:43 AM|
Joined Apr 2013
Speed up Ferrari Hydroplane
I just got an ferrari hydroplane from tantrasway.com (https://tantrasway.com/ferrari-racin...led-model.html)
here is its specs:
Dimensions: 31.5in (long) x 11.8in (wide) x 5.1in (high) or 80cm (long) x 30cm (wide) x 18cm (high)
Motor: 4065 brushless motor with 1800Kv water-cooled
ESC: 120A water-cooled
Battery: LIPO 4s 4000mAh, 30C
Propeller: Aluminum CNC 2-blade propeller 4214
It is scratch built and complete planked on frame, so it's heavier than composite hull.
Currently I can speed it up to 70 km per hour, I want to make it 100 km/h (or even more if possible).
Do you have any suggestion?
Regarding the stability, the boat hops like a frog when it turns, how to shoot this problem?
Thank you very much
PS: here is clip how it runs
|Dec 02, 2013, 04:38 PM|
Joined May 2004
Hi A, (too long name...),
If I'm correct, the boat has two turnfins, this is wrong, hydroplanes are set-up to turn in one direction only, usually right hand turns.
As it is now, the outside turnfin will lift the boat, while the inside turnfin tries to get a grip, causing the hopping attitude.
It's a semi scale (display) model, not primeraly built for running at high speed, so I'm not sure if going any faster is such a good idea, as it is rather heavy and narrow, compared to a rigger that will easily run over 100 km/h.
On 4S, the 1800KV motor will only rev at about 24000 rpm under load, hydroplanes usually are in the range between 32000 and 40000 rpm.
If the ESC can handle it, try running on 6S to see if the hull will handle it.
Before trying a higher Voltage, make sure the outlet on the cooling jacket is on the highest point, so there is no air trapped in the cooling jacket, the pictures show the worst case of 'half motor cooling' I've seen in a long time.
The prop looks very dull in the picture, see if sharpening (and balancing) it get's you better performance.
Also the angle of the strut doesn't seem to be adjustable, so a prop with more lifting properties may be in order.
The video's on the website show a rather crappy set-up boat that drags it's tail and is piloted without much feel or skill for running a fast electric.
The few running pics on the site confirm the taildragging:
Sadly the running sound is drowned out by music making it hard to judge the running attitude.
|Dec 07, 2013, 12:50 PM|
Joined Apr 2010
I have a 1/10 scale Miss Bardahl, and like the previous poster said, it should be set up with 1 turn fin to turn hard in 1 direction (turn fin goes on the side the boat should turn. The prop should turn in the opposite direction from the boat turn, but if you use a flexshaft you must be sure the flexshaft "compresses" under load and does not "unwind" under load. If you want the boat to turn Left (like the real scale boats), then you would need a reverse wind flexshaft or use a straight shaft., and a Right hand turn prop. I have mine set up to turn Right so I can use a standard flexshaft and standard Left hand turn prop.
I use a 1500KV motor on 4S with low RPMs (22,000) but with a large x447 prop. I run my boat around 45mph (72kph)-- the problem with shovelnose hulls is that they generate a ton of lift, so they are very easy to blow over at really high speeds-- that is why the picklefork hydros evolved-- to cut down the lift in the tunnel. If your boat is blowing over, you can install an air dam which helps a lot (tape a drinking straw under the hull towards the front of the tunnel.
|Dec 07, 2013, 03:51 PM|
Joined Apr 2010
Also, for shovels you need the weight as far forward as possible. I have both batteries up in the nose and still needed to add some lead weight to keep the nose settled.
|Yesterday, 04:13 PM|
Thanks for the inspiration to make me drag mine out of the dust & cobwebs to finish converting it. It was originally a 38" static display model. I was originaly going to run it on 6s. But I'll leave it as 4s now.
I've just updated my build thread with a video from one of Saturdays test runs.
Here's a link to the thread if you are interested.
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