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Old Sep 25, 2012, 08:46 AM
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Nashville TN
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Best Glue for Giant Scale ???

Hi, going to start a Lainer Stinger 120 soon and it has the balsa over foam core wings.....what would be my best choice of glue on the foam/balsa?
Also, on the airframe would "TiteBond 2 " be ok ? Or should I use CA ? The CA is harder to sand for me. Or if there is better choice please let me know. I have read alot of " glue " debates here but most of that was on 40 size planes, and I'm new to the giant scale ....just want to build it strong and safe.
Thanks,
Eng30
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Old Sep 25, 2012, 10:20 AM
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I built the Lanier CAP 232 1.60 and I used Tite Bond II for the foam cores. Takes alot of glue! I had a small roller for paint with a foam roller and just rolled it out onto the foam and set the skins on it. Make sure you use a good flat surface and alot of weight on the foam skins. Also it is best to do them one at a time and not stack them ontop of each other. As for the rest of the frame medium or thick CA. As for firefall, wing bolt plates and triangle stocks I used either 5 minute or 30 minute epoxy.

Heres a time saver too. I used foam safe CA on all the leading and trailing edge stock. You could also used 5 min epoxy or the Tite Bond II just takes a little longer to set up.

One more tip! When you cut out the control surfaces..... I used my table saw! Made it very easy and kept them straight! I finished the cuts with a miter box hand saw.
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Old Sep 25, 2012, 10:26 AM
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We stir this 'pot' occasionally here....A glue joint is a glue joint whether a giant or not.
If you have a favorite glue,that's the one to use. I'm an old guy,and I still use all types of glue. Cya,epoxy,aliphatic resins,etc.,are all good for building.

I believe the consensus of opinions suggest Cya for balsa to balsa or white/yellow wood glue,if you don't use Cya.
Epoxy is almost required for landing gear mounts,and firewalls.
Sandable wood glue(there are some that don't sand so easily) can be used for joining sheets together at the edges. Sand them smooth on the work table,before gluing into place.

I used to apply Souther's "Sorghum" for balsa to foam laminating as in wing sheeting,but I don't know what's hot currently.

Laminating two pieces together as in formers or doublers,epoxy doesn't cause the wood to 'curl' like white glue does.,but weighting them down until dry solves
that little problem, if you do use white glue.
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Old Sep 25, 2012, 02:40 PM
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Light weight is always a model builder’s quest. So after using pretty much every type of suitable adhesive available I have been having great results with everyday water based white wood glue.

Its adhesive qualities are more than adequate for the job.
It remains slightly flexible when fully cured.
As it is water based a lot of the weight of the applied adhesive simply evaporates while curing.

Before I join the skins to together I weigh the planks and match them to get equal weight wood on both wing panels.

Then I join the planks together usually with Titebond. If the wing is tapered use complete sheets with the grain parallel to the leading edge and the trailing edge respectively. Then fill in between these two sheets with planks trimmed in such a manner as to have the grain running from root to tip as straight as possible. Make the skins slightly oversize and trim to actual size when the gluing is cured.
This is now a good time to give the slightly oversize skins an initial sanding on a flat surface using a large sanding block. The final sanding is done when the wing panel is completely ready.

Make sure that your work surface where you will do the gluing is flat and warp free or you will end up with warped wings.

DO NOT apply the skin adhesive to the foam. The foam has lots and lots of pores etc for the glue to fill with a huge (useless) weight penalty. Best method is to apply the glue to the balsa skins with a spatula. You must scrape most of the glue away as very little glue is need for the task.

The skins will now start to curl slightly due to the moisture in the adhesive. Now working quickly (but not in panic mode) carefully lay and align the skins on the wing cores and place these assemblies in the foam outer jackets. At this time I usually place a slab of 25mm plywood on the curing cores and then the weights for an equal distribution of the load over the complete surface of the wing.
Let it cure for about 24 hours and you will have very strong and light wings that will give you years of service.

As for the rest of the construction, every need has its solution.
Epoxy glue for wing center joining, firewall mounting, landing gear plates and other high stress areas. Thick and thin CA’s for just about everything else, Titebond works great too if you are not in a hurry.
When gluing to styrene foam, maks sure that the adhesive is compatible with the foam as it dissolves readily.

Enjoy the build. Unfortunately with today’s buy and fly ARF’s a lot of fellows are missing out on this very rewarding part of our hobby.

mike
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Old Sep 25, 2012, 03:35 PM
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Squeaky joints

Mike-in reference to your "slow down and enjoy it remark", that's right on the money.
Building is a lot of fun and relaxation......But you need a 'switch' to get to slow mode.
Take it easy-don't force any thing,and sand the heck out of it.
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Old Sep 25, 2012, 04:07 PM
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Best Glue for any Scale

The only thing to ask is, "What does it have to stand up to ?".
Fuel will be a problem with white or wood glue and contact cement.
Some glues do not like styro-foam.
I use all types of glue. The best one for you will depend on how you build.
CA in thick or thin + polyurethane are my glues of choice, but I also use epoxy and wood glues when needed. Polyurethane is nice because with a small squirt of windex it will foam up, filling large gaps and radii. CA will bond quick with kicker, and thin CA will run and flow under thin gaps. Note some glues are not good with vibration or cold temps.
When in dought Read the instructions and do a test piece to see if it holds up.
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Old Sep 26, 2012, 07:21 PM
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I'm no expert, but I really like tightbond 3.

30 min epoxy for ply parts, CA for some small parts where I want fast set time.
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Old Sep 26, 2012, 07:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeffinTD View Post
I'm no expert, but I really like tightbond 3.

30 min epoxy for ply parts, CA for some small parts where I want fast set time.
Yeah-but you SOUND like an expert....those are good choices !

Nobody uses Hot Glue??........Me neither.
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Old Sep 27, 2012, 10:09 AM
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Here's a related question. Anyone perforate balsa when gluing to the side of the grain?

I've seen things break where the glue joint held, but it peeled an onion skin like layer off the balsa...
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Old Sep 27, 2012, 05:19 PM
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I tried on 1/16 balsa sheeting once,but the pin holes weakened the edge also.

Better to use slightly harder balsa,or glue,sand smooth, then wick thin ca on the edge and resand before applying the sheeting.

If the glue holds and the balsa peels,that's a perfect glue joint.
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Old Sep 28, 2012, 05:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by epoxyearl View Post

Nobody uses Hot Glue??.
ARFs ?
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Old Sep 28, 2012, 05:46 AM
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Originally Posted by TomCrump View Post
ARFs ?
And they deserve it!!
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Old Oct 01, 2012, 10:24 AM
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Aliphatic Resin if your into glue sniffing while building!
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Old Oct 01, 2012, 12:14 PM
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I built one and she builds heavy. I used 3M spray contact cement for wing skins & epoxy,ca and ambroid for the rest. Good flyer and fun plane. Mine has a Supertigre 3000. Good luck.

John
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Old Oct 10, 2012, 10:11 AM
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The last foam wing I did, I used Elmers ProBond, an expanding polyurethane glue like gorilla glue. You had to watch it and wipe the excess foaming off before it hardened or it would be hard to sand. I haven't been able to find that glue in the last several years. I dont know what ATI used on their balsa sheeted foam wings but it is crap. I have a B-17 that will be taken down for maintenance because the seams of the balsa sheet are pealing up. You can feel it under the covering (coverite). Will have to strip it, cut out the seams and patch it. It will get glassed when done.

30 min epoxy for high strength area's and plastic hinges.
Titebond for general.
CA for small pieces and CA hinges (too expensive for general building).
Goop to glue parts to polyester resin parts and air tanks in place.
RC-56 for canopies that dont need to be removed.
AND gorilla glue for the stubborn area's and round robart hinges. Recently used a tiny bead to hold the door side of a busa 1/4 navy cub wind shield that wouldnt stay down with RC-56. You cant see the glue unless you stick your face right down on it.
Edwin
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