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Old Oct 11, 2012, 11:08 AM
V120D02S, GCP
LarsDennert's Avatar
United States, CA, Pasadena
Joined Feb 2012
142 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by BThirsk View Post
I have a devo 7 I only use with the SIM. I could not get 20 minutes and it would lose connection. I now have it plugged in all the time. The battery life on it is a quarter of my devo 8 and if you are changing program with the backlite active, the battery degrades twice as fast.
I noticed the Nimh charger makes a big difference. I was only getting two bars on the meter fully charged and very little use before the batteries were dead. They were new 2500mah batteries with an everready charger. I bought a Panasonic BQ-390 and it really charges the batteries! They last FOREVER now and show three bars.
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Old Oct 11, 2012, 11:27 AM
V120D02S, GCP
LarsDennert's Avatar
United States, CA, Pasadena
Joined Feb 2012
142 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spyro37 View Post
You can reduce the throttle curve to your liking to reduce head speed.
Some radios has normal + 2 more Stunt Modes.
Yea I'll have to play with that. I had the normal at -5, 75, 100. I think because my GCP had such a bad motor, ESC/rx and worn out parts that I was used to it. In the end it didn't have enough power to remain airborne at all inverted and barely when upright.

This is my first BL heli so I guess I need to find a big open area! It is also quite a bit bigger than the GCP. I was going to buy the Master CP but the wife said I should stick to something smaller so I can fly it in more places. I think she was right. The V120 is still small enough that people will dismiss it for a 2 or 3ch mall toy and not complain if I fly at the park. It is too big for my yard though. Too many trees to do anything but hover around a bit at slow speed.

I think the Master CP really needs an RC field or out in the country.

I wasn't even flying in stunt modes which I programmed as 100, 75, 100 and 100, 100, 100. It was more than 10 seconds before I hit anything... but it was basically some heavy pitch pumps to get a feel and a few turns before the speed got away from me.
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Old Oct 11, 2012, 01:05 PM
Registered User
United Kingdom
Joined Sep 2011
366 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by IntegrityHndywrk View Post
..What about, which blades? The ones i'm currently flying? They are just the stock blades with 2 pieces (wide) of reflective tape wrapped around them to make the center yellow...
I meant the KDBB blades but your waiting on delivery from your earlier post, I'm not looking for any 3D or anything just slow circuits so maybe the stock blades are best (other than them being hard to see!)
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Old Oct 11, 2012, 03:07 PM
Brent 黑雁
BThirsk's Avatar
Canada, AB, Ponoka
Joined Jan 2012
1,765 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by LarsDennert View Post
I noticed the Nimh charger makes a big difference. I was only getting two bars on the meter fully charged and very little use before the batteries were dead. They were new 2500mah batteries with an everready charger. I bought a Panasonic BQ-390 and it really charges the batteries! They last FOREVER now and show three bars.
I also have 2200mah batteries in all my TXs. They last longer, but there is a big difference between TXs. The Devo 8 will last an hour or more before requiring a charge. It's just that some TX are not power hogs and others are.
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Old Oct 11, 2012, 03:19 PM
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United Kingdom
Joined Sep 2011
366 Posts
Just a thought but with the Xtreme skids, where are you guys putting the esc? I have mine stuck on the side of the rx where the old skids had the 2 plastic uprights to connect it too, but they aint on the Xtreme skids so its attached to the RX which probably isn't a good idea - where so you attach yours?
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Old Oct 11, 2012, 04:36 PM
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Joined Nov 2011
776 Posts
UGH. I hate the blasted pins that hold the head and main gear on. It's time to make a shear pin.

I was trying a loop variant the other day, going into the loop upright then rolling the heli upright at the top and doing the second half of the loop so I exit the loop inverted. Instead I underestimated ground level and plowed it in right on the head

Now the head pin is bent in the hole and I can't get enough of a grip to pull it out. Also not helping is that the main gear pin is bent and stuck as well I think I need new bearings and a tail shaft as well. THIS close to just getting a "new" D02S and transplanting my RX2622.

It's frustrating because I always try new stuff on the D02S before the 250 or V200 and since the beater can't fly I'm stuck.
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Old Oct 11, 2012, 06:30 PM
WIFE HAND LAUNCHED MY PLANES!
Spyro37's Avatar
Joined Jun 2009
2,201 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by LarsDennert View Post
I wasn't even flying in stunt modes which I programmed as 100, 75, 100 and 100, 100, 100. It was more than 10 seconds before I hit anything... but it was basically some heavy pitch pumps to get a feel and a few turns before the speed got away from me.
Careful with your normal mode setting.
Walkera's manual are not that great or sometimes BAD & make you crash!
I think I use -5% , 0%, 100% Pitch Curve on my Normal Flight Mode . You only need very liittle negative pitch (if any) on Normal Mode.
Too much negative pitch settings will bring down the heli @ full speed, vertical, straight to the ground when the throttle stick is backed down.
I usually land using Stunt mode, I feel like I have better control that way, just as long as the ground is flat & even.
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Old Oct 11, 2012, 07:47 PM
V120D02S, GCP
LarsDennert's Avatar
United States, CA, Pasadena
Joined Feb 2012
142 Posts
I did notice it was really twitchy when throttling back to land. Exactly what you are talking about. Zero pitch at mid stick? Is that to match hovering in stunt modes? 100% max pitch? Are you using travel adjust? Recommended is 60. Does it bog at 100?
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Old Oct 11, 2012, 08:38 PM
IHW Heli Division
IntegrityHndywrk's Avatar
United States, FL, Palm Coast
Joined Mar 2012
7,142 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by RotaryC View Post
I meant the KDBB blades but your waiting on delivery from your earlier post, I'm not looking for any 3D or anything just slow circuits so maybe the stock blades are best (other than them being hard to see!)
Just received them today. They are only about 5mm longer than the stock blades. Not as long as the 140mm CF blades. They are the same width and are lighter. So they should perform better because of the weight shaved. Plus for me, i can shave additional weight because i won't need the yellow tape any longer. So there though be even more noticeable difference for me in performance. They are just a little longer though, so i suspect they will fly a little more stable too. I have not installed them yet though.



However, the tail blades can be used. But they are not as wide as the stock blades are. The difference in width is split down the center CG point of the tail blade. So the stock blade is a little wider in the back as well as in the front, having an over all slightly wider span than the 130X blades. This could take away from tail authority slightly. But i'm sure on the D02S there won't be a noticable difference. But I wonder about my D05, which i actually need wider blades and was hoping these would be it. They are not. But they should work perfectly on the D02.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BThirsk View Post
I also have 2200mah batteries in all my TXs. They last longer, but there is a big difference between TXs. The Devo 8 will last an hour or more before requiring a charge. It's just that some TX are not power hogs and others are.
The 2801-pro can go for 6+ hours with a 2200mAh battery before the voltage reaches 11.1V. I'm not positive about while in use. But i left the thing on for more than 10 hours and when i came back it still had 11.4v on the pack. Sounds like devo are power hogs! Those color touch screens are not only hard to see in the sun, they kill your batteries faster too! I'll bet the Devo 10 can stay powered on and in use for much longer than the devo 8 or 12.


Quote:
Originally Posted by RotaryC View Post
Just a thought but with the Xtreme skids, where are you guys putting the esc? I have mine stuck on the side of the rx where the old skids had the 2 plastic uprights to connect it too, but they aint on the Xtreme skids so its attached to the RX which probably isn't a good idea - where so you attach yours?
I always used to cut off those little risers and attached the ESC directly to the side of the RX shelf. Not the RX it's self. I cut a thin sliver about 4-5mm thick of 3M EXTREME mounting tape. This stuff has a 10 lb. holding weight. It's much better than the regular 3m mounting tape once it bonds properly to the right material it's very hard to remove. But unfortunately the BPA plastic that walkera uses on their RX is not very cohesive with these tapes. So using the 4-5mm strips of tape. I cut 3-4 of them and stack them together after removing the film. Then i attach them to the RX shelf. This makes a protrusion under the RX an the esc should line up with the RX and the tape and sit flush. Use another thin strip of tape on the RX if you like to secure it totally to the side. This method makes a very thick pad to absorb vibrations and nullify movement between the ESC and the RX. Because the tape attached to the RX shelf should stick very well and should also stick to the ESC fairly well too, you shouldn't have a lot of peeling or movement. I can take pictures of mine later.


Quote:
Originally Posted by TucsonFlyer View Post
UGH. I hate the blasted pins that hold the head and main gear on. It's time to make a shear pin.

I was trying a loop variant the other day, going into the loop upright then rolling the heli upright at the top and doing the second half of the loop so I exit the loop inverted. Instead I underestimated ground level and plowed it in right on the head

Now the head pin is bent in the hole and I can't get enough of a grip to pull it out. Also not helping is that the main gear pin is bent and stuck as well I think I need new bearings and a tail shaft as well. THIS close to just getting a "new" D02S and transplanting my RX2622.

It's frustrating because I always try new stuff on the D02S before the 250 or V200 and since the beater can't fly I'm stuck.
I have twisted the rotor head in reverse to bend the pins back into some sort of way that i could maybe remove it. You can try that. Since using a copper main gear "sheer pin" i have not had a rotor pin get stuck on me. Though i have the tiny bits and things to drill them out if needed. This is not the optimal way, i know. But you can also use a 0.9mm allen/hex key and cut the L: part off so it's just a straight bar. Then try using that, while bracing the main shaft and rotor head some how. To tap the pin out with a light hammer. This of course can bend the shaft or damage the rotor head, etc. Just be careful and patent. They always come out, it's just a matter of how, and how long. Last time i had the issue i had to break the pin and rotor head. cut what was left off then pull the very bent pin out. That sucks having to do. I think you wouldn't be so bad off with two v120s. I still am scared to do full inverted circuits with the 200 or 450 yet. So when i crash the V120d02S i'm always glad i have my V120d05CS to fall back on. I'm probably going to sell the 4f200 because i don't feel like converting it to a two blade head. The 3 blade head is really cool, but 3d is not it's strong suit. I plan on going with a CX 250 with DFC head, as i believe you have done, and a CX 600 with a FBL head and an 7200BX on both. Those should be cheap and VERY sold/reliable helicopters. I hope. Good luck with your pin.
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Old Oct 11, 2012, 08:49 PM
RC Reviews & Tx Setup Guides
Tom Z's Avatar
United States
Joined Sep 2007
3,492 Posts
I have some tame settings for the V120D02S and V120D02S V2.
You can choose from Beginner Settings, Intermediate to Advanced Settings, and 3D Settings .


http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...2&postcount=34

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1325037


Tom
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Old Oct 11, 2012, 09:05 PM
Hong Kong
Joined Jan 2010
6,246 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by BThirsk View Post
I also have 2200mah batteries in all my TXs. They last longer, but there is a big difference between TXs. The Devo 8 will last an hour or more before requiring a charge. It's just that some TX are not power hogs and others are.
I wonder if you are using NiMH batteries in your Devo 8? The NiMH batteries have a lower voltage rating than normal pen cells. Therefore they reach the the warning voltage much earlier. A 8.4V lipo is better but some will work and some won't
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Old Oct 11, 2012, 09:31 PM
Registered User
United Kingdom
Joined Sep 2011
366 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by IntegrityHndywrk View Post
Just received them today. They are only about 5mm longer than the stock blades. Not as long as the 140mm CF blades. They are the same width and are lighter. So they should perform better because of the weight shaved. Plus for me, i can shave additional weight because i won't need the yellow tape any longer. So there though be even more noticeable difference for me in performance. They are just a little longer though, so i suspect they will fly a little more stable too. I have not installed them yet though.

However, the tail blades can be used. But they are not as wide as the stock blades are. The difference in width is split down the center CG point of the tail blade. So the stock blade is a little wider in the back as well as in the front, having an over all slightly wider span than the 130X blades. This could take away from tail authority slightly. But i'm sure on the D02S there won't be a noticable difference. But I wonder about my D05, which i actually need wider blades and was hoping these would be it. They are not. But they should work perfectly on the D02.
Cool, sounds like a definite buy then as long as they are stable and wont hit the tail rotors Can you let us all know if the tail blades make a difference with them being thinner, would be nice to see both matching!


Quote:
Originally Posted by IntegrityHndywrk View Post
I always used to cut off those little risers and attached the ESC directly to the side of the RX shelf. Not the RX it's self. I cut a thin sliver about 4-5mm thick of 3M EXTREME mounting tape. This stuff has a 10 lb. holding weight. It's much better than the regular 3m mounting tape once it bonds properly to the right material it's very hard to remove. But unfortunately the BPA plastic that walkera uses on their RX is not very cohesive with these tapes. So using the 4-5mm strips of tape. I cut 3-4 of them and stack them together after removing the film. Then i attach them to the RX shelf. This makes a protrusion under the RX an the esc should line up with the RX and the tape and sit flush. Use another thin strip of tape on the RX if you like to secure it totally to the side. This method makes a very thick pad to absorb vibrations and nullify movement between the ESC and the RX. Because the tape attached to the RX shelf should stick very well and should also stick to the ESC fairly well too, you shouldn't have a lot of peeling or movement. I can take pictures of mine later.
Thanks for the info, yeah I think I know what you mean, I can't find the xtreme tape anywhere though (I've been looking for something on a roll?), but I do have some double sided padded tape, if its not strong enough to stick to the WK plastic I can hot glue it on I suppose.

EDIT: Just done this, seems fine, the double sided padded tape was meant for cars (used to use on my honey bee) and seems strong enough, bit of play in the movement of the esc but nothing to worry about, to be expected I suppose, its a good 2mm(+) away from the RX now anyway so no more vibrations etc. Thanks again!

...The 3M tape doesn't come on a roll does it, it comes in strips doesn't it haha
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Old Oct 11, 2012, 10:25 PM
Registered User
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United States, TX, New Braunfels
Joined May 2011
489 Posts
Am I the only one flying with foamies?

A fresh pair out of the plastic works well but eventually I get many blues and many reds that are not of the same pair. It's hard to match up a pair that will fly with no vibes. Any idea why this is? Since most crashes only break one blade so I have a pile of single blades and it's hard to find a match.

I like the foamies over the stock plastic blades because the responsiveness is quicker. The foamies simply pop the heli around while the plastic blades is like flying Mrs. Daisy.
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Old Oct 12, 2012, 01:16 AM
IHW Heli Division
IntegrityHndywrk's Avatar
United States, FL, Palm Coast
Joined Mar 2012
7,142 Posts
I was cutting grass all day so never mind my dirty hands! lol. I fitted the 130x KDBB blades today immediately after work.

Yes, the 130x KDBB tail blades are very close to the same size as the D02S tail blades. They are a little shorter and narrower. The stock D02S blade shown is actually slightly ground down on the tip from use. So it's a little more rounded and shorter than when new.



BAD NEWS! The 130x tail blades do not fit properly without modification. The blade root is too fat. The inside half of the blade grip will buckle to accept it on the plastic v120d02S grips but they absolutely will not fit the D05's CNC tail grips. Not a big deal because i was looking for wider tail blades anyway for the D05. So you can force fit them on the D02S but the result is a boomerang shaped tail rotor:




I am going to try and fly it tomorrow like this. I assume the tail will drift or act funny. Not sure. I'm not sure the best way to go about grinding it to size and keeping symmetry either. So if anyone has any ideas on best practices with doing so, please speak up.



Otherwise, they look great and the length is not an issue with the tail rotor except in a crash maybe. They shouldn't hit in flight. They end up being the same length as the 140mm CF blades are. I flew with those for a while with no problems with the tail rotor. The trailing edge of the 130X KDBB blade has a little extra length on the root side of the blade as well. Not sure if it matters. Over all the length of the blades is equal to the 140mm blades but they are just as narrow as the stock blades. This is exactly what i was looking for and i have great hopes they will fly well tomorrow. Did i mention they look great?




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Old Oct 12, 2012, 05:05 AM
Registered User
United Kingdom
Joined Sep 2011
366 Posts
@IntegrityHndywrk, heli's are looking good mate, I don't know if it would work but a dremel fine sanding disc or some wet and dry sand paper could remove some of the plastic on the root, or a dremel then wet and dry to smooth it out?. I've heard the tail authority on the D05 isn't all that great without mods, what are people using on the D05 thread?

Can I ask where you got those main blade holders for the 120 size heli's? I like how the blades sit side by side rather than one above the other!
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