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Old Jul 03, 2012, 09:35 PM
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So I take it Pat is definitely not interested in making any more kits. Bummer. Fortunately there is Rauch for those who don't mind wet layup glassing over balsa skin / foam core construction. But no L-1011 In the end that's what scratch building is for though

Please keep us appropriately inundated with photos as you go along in the build! The progress has been enjoyable to follow.
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Old Jul 03, 2012, 09:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Chuchuf View Post
If you are seriously interested, i know how much they are and they aren't cheap.

Terry
I bet they arent. LOL
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Old Jul 04, 2012, 05:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Eddie P View Post
So I take it Pat is definitely not interested in making any more kits. Bummer. Fortunately there is Rauch for those who don't mind wet layup glassing over balsa skin / foam core construction. But no L-1011 In the end that's what scratch building is for though

Please keep us appropriately inundated with photos as you go along in the build! The progress has been enjoyable to follow.
I wish he would consider bringing this kit back to market. With the fans available today this plane is really a very good flyer.The design he choose for the wing is a winner.
But I also suspect that most folks aren't interested any longer in building kits. ARF's have taken over the market and I suspect that building kits is becoming a lost art form.
I'll try and keep up. Yesterday was mostly glassing and some small detail stuff.

Terry
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Old Jul 04, 2012, 07:39 AM
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I spoke to Frank T some time back, Pat is working at BVM now and is very secure so don't expect much past breach of contract.
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Old Jul 04, 2012, 06:27 PM
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I thought he was only at BVM for a short while! Rumors being what they are... I'm sure my info is not valid. Hopefully he's happy where he's at, wherever that is. And having plenty of time to build, fly and maybe bring an L-1011 back to production some day

Anyhow, thanks again Terry for the updates and build diary.
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Old Jul 06, 2012, 08:44 AM
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Moving on with the fiberglassing.
* All of the tail surfaces have been glassed with 1/2 oz cloth
* Flap and ailerons have been glassed with 1/2 oz cloth
* The joint where the inner and outer wing panels have been joined have been glassed with two layers of 2 oz cloth top and bottom for strength. The first 3" wide followed by a 4" strip to minimize any buildup of fiberglass so as to produce a smooth wing when finished.

I'm sure that most of you know that when glassing it's the resin that causes weight build-up. So the name of the game is to minimize that buildup. If when done glassing it is glossy, there is to much resin. Therefore I brush the resin on with a stiff brush never pouring the resin on and moving it around as some do. Takes a bit longer this way but insure a good light finish. When done I will take paper towels and pat down the surface to get any excess resin up, which usually is very little. When I cover the wings I'll try and get some pictures of the brush which will be cut shorter to insure a stiff bristle.

More work on fuse while this is drying. Need to make cutouts for elevator and rudder servos as well as work on smoothing the joint where the fuse joins together.

Terry
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Last edited by Chuchuf; Jul 09, 2012 at 04:19 PM.
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Old Jul 09, 2012, 04:30 PM
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Moving right along.
The stabs, elevators, rudder, ailerons and flaps have been glassed with West System and 1/2 oz cloth.
The servo covers have been made from 3/16" lite ply and servos mounted.
Now comes the cleaning up of the seam where the front and rear fuse joins together. To do this it was a two step process, first the front seam and then the rear of the seam. What I used was West Syetem Epoxy resin mixed very thick with micro baloons and cabisol for thickness. Once the front is done, sand and lay up the rear. Wax paper was put in the seam each time so that it would separate. Then sand the rear part/
First coat of primer and pictures.

Terry
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Old Jul 09, 2012, 06:14 PM
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Really like the work! What are you using to hold the fuse sections together?
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Old Jul 09, 2012, 07:51 PM
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Thanks Eddie P.
Fuse is held together with 4 cam lock fasteners (you can see one in the last picture) that engage the head of a allen head bolt that come with the kit. There are also 4 guide pins for alignment that slide in next to the bolts.
They were already installed to the front fuse bulkhead or I wouldn't have used them. There are better ways to do this that I have seen but I didn't want to redo the mounting. I'll look for something that can cover the 4 holes for he camlocks.
I guess the nice thing about the camlocks is that they allow you to finely adjust the tension on them with the bolts.
Mounting the horizontal stabs and vertical stab next, and then more sanding on the main wing tomorrow and then start to cover the wings with 3/4 oz fiberglass cloth and West resin.

Terry
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Old Jul 10, 2012, 02:44 PM
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Moving on to the tail section, the horizintal stabs and vertical stabs were glues in place and the areas where they glue to on the fuse were roughened up. Hysol was used on the plawood spars and a mixture of 30min epoxy on the fuse. They were tacked in place with CA as I adjusted them while mounting........work fast running around the work bench!!

I also glassed one of the wing bottoms using a method call ply peal (this is new to me so I only did one surface) as described here http://terry_holston.tripod.com/id4.html . I still used a cutoff stuff brush to apply the West slow cure resin to try and minimize the amount going down but yet get full coverage. Applying with a squeege would be faster but I feel you just get to much resin on the surface that way so I'll stick to my brush.
I weighed the panel before I started so tomorrow when I pull the polyester cloth off and sand we'll see what I added in weight.

Terry
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Last edited by Chuchuf; Jul 10, 2012 at 04:33 PM.
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Old Jul 10, 2012, 04:32 PM
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The method of using polyester to cover the glass cloth is the absolute best. I couldn't wait till the morning to pull it off and with the warm weather here the resin had cured pretty well, so I pulled away. Mind you no more resin will be required.
It looks like with the excess 3/4 oz cloth still on, I picked up about 1/2 oz for the bottom of 1 wing. Very light indeed.
I'm waiting for the remainder of my 3/4 oz cloth to get here for the rest of the wings, but when it does, I am definately using this method.

Terry
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Last edited by Chuchuf; Jul 10, 2012 at 04:38 PM.
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Old Jul 12, 2012, 12:45 AM
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Looking great!

Never even heard of the polyester cloth technique. The problem with removing all the resin with paper towels has been one of "robbing Peter to pay Paul" IMHO. You remove the resin but then you have more gaps and space to fill the weave, using material of the same weight nearly. So it may have been a matter of a few grams at the end of the day saved by using a really messy step.

But this polyester cloth - it seems if I'm reading it right, that it might actually use the existing resin to fill the weave tightly and you remove more material for a smoother finish almost like a poor man's vaccum bagging technique. A light sanding to remove the nipples and you are ready for finish priming. Awesome. What are your thoughts on it now that you test drove the technique?

Oh - another question - any chance for a picture of those locking cams and allen head bolts that fasten the fuse together? I need a decent solution for a big airliner I'm scratch building. Way too big for a one piece fuselage.
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Old Jul 12, 2012, 02:39 AM
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Great looking model, I just love airliners and always wanted this one till I have seen it flown twice. Friend of mine got one with the turbine in it, bit of a flying brick, in the air looks more like jet fighter then airliner. Keep it as light as possible, Joe.
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Old Jul 12, 2012, 06:40 AM
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Eddie,
The technique of using the polyester cloth is essentially a take off of using something called "peal ply" which is a proven technique i fiberglass......just a lot less expensive. Personally I'm glad I discovered it and it produces a light even smooth finish ready to sand after one light coat of resin. I would definately use it again.
Paper towels just don't suck up enough resin and as you pointed out are a really messy job.
You still don't want to just pour the resin on as the polyester cloth saturates pretty quickly. But you want an even full covering coat, to which I use a stiff brush to apply it.
The cam locks are difficult to get a picture of on the plane because they are burried in a piece of wood. But they are similar to those used in furniture assembly http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...4&site=ROCKLER . These aren't the exact ones but with some searching I'm sure you can find something that will work for your application.

Terry
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Old Jul 12, 2012, 06:42 AM
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Originally Posted by jofro View Post
Great looking model, I just love airliners and always wanted this one till I have seen it flown twice. Friend of mine got one with the turbine in it, bit of a flying brick, in the air looks more like jet fighter then airliner. Keep it as light as possible, Joe.
At 27 lbs AUW or less these definately don't fly like bricks. They fly beautifully.

Terry
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