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Old Apr 08, 2014, 05:50 PM
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Build Log
Building Chris Craft 1949 Racing Runabout


The attached photos are of the aforementioned boat I started in 2012 after receiving it as a Christmas gift from my son and daughter in December, 2011. It was the first model boat of this caliber that I have attempted. I was procrastinating as to whether I wanted to attempt it and my love for Chris Craft models finally got the best of me and I caved in. I read the instructions many times before I started building in October, 2012 and had several comments from my family wondering if I was ever going to start. I started and had it substantially started by Christmas, 2012 so that my grandsons got to see it for real when they came for Christmas from California. They had seen it as I was building it when we Skyped them, they wanted me to be done with it ASAP. I had it in the water last summer but the finishing touches were not complete when I tried it in the water. Just a few finishing touches for it to be complete for this model boat season. I am building the Dumas Trojan F31 currently and have another thread about that build. Hoping to have that in the water later this summer, it is a challenging build. Hope you find this thread interesting. Thanks.

Norm
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Old Apr 09, 2014, 01:07 AM
Taking care of the pond.
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Looking good.
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Old Apr 09, 2014, 09:20 AM
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Thanks for your reply

I have more photos I will post soon, I ran out of time yesterday as I had to get to my car club meeting last evening. It's time to get the old Chevys out and see if they if they will run and what needs to be done before the long cruises begin. Thanks again.

Norm
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Old Apr 21, 2014, 04:58 PM
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Update

A few more photos of the 1949 Racing Runabout. Getting closer to having it finished, a few more final touches before it gets in the water. Has been warming up, smaller lakes and ponds are wet again, it won't be long. Hope you enjoy the photos.

Norm
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Old Apr 21, 2014, 11:16 PM
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Very nice!!
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Old May 02, 2014, 01:24 PM
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In California

visiting my daughter and her family this week. I will post more photos next week of the progress. Weather in Cali much nicer than Minnesota, better boat building weather in Minnesota though.
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Old May 12, 2014, 05:30 PM
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Servo mounting

There was a question from Mahog as to how to mount the rudder servo as the instructions are not good in the manual. The manual says to use velcro, I was sure velcro would not work as it can't resist torque which is what a servo does to make the rudder work. I did get a "mini" servo to fit under the seat, but even that doesn't fit very well. I tried many things to secure the servo, finally put wood bracing on each side of the servo, glued it securely in place to the servo tray, and finally got the rigidity necessary to resist the servo torque. Still have a problem with the seat, can't get it to fit properly, may have to take some additional balsa off the bottom, but I'm not sure that will work. If anyone has any ideas, suggestions, or how you did it, I'm eager for other ideas. Thanks.

Norm
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Old May 12, 2014, 06:19 PM
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If you shorten the arm on the servo, you'll gain some clearance under the seat. Of course doing this reduces the "throw" of the servo, so to compensate you can shorten the tiller arm at the rudder which increases "throw". That's what I did on my Racing Runabout. I also used a Hitec programmable digital servo, which allowed me to program in a bit more than 90degree rotation in the servo. I went with as much as I could get away with without the linkage binding.

Kevin
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Old May 13, 2014, 09:05 AM
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Thanks for your reply

I think I did shorten the servo arm, but maybe not enough, I will look at that again and see what I can do with it. I also am thinking about redoing the tiller arm to see how much adjustment there is with that. Your ideas are good ones, I will play with the entire assembly including a new servo. Thanks again.

Norm
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Old May 13, 2014, 06:15 PM
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Norm,
I've been thinking about raising the seat a bit by extending the base down an eighth or quarter of an inch to give more room for the servo arm to swing. If necessary you could prune some off the top of the seat back to reduce the visual of the seat being too tall. I will make some aluminum mounts when my "mini" arrives from Hobbylinc.
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Old May 13, 2014, 08:34 PM
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Raise the rear seat

I have placed an extension on the front of the seat bottom to raise it some, about 1/4". My problem is that the seat is supposed to fit into the servo tray area at the front to stabilize the seat so it won't sail out of the boat when running. Because of the location of the wood blocking to hold the servo in place I no longer have a "slot" for the seat front to fit into. I have tried to make a new "slot" but have not been able to do that as there is not enough room to work to make the new slot. I think I will end up removing what I did last year with a new approach, metal clips may be the answer, smaller servo, redo the servo tray, may think about it during the season and do it after the season depending upon how well my brain works as I use the boat. I am building a Dumas Trojan F31, would like to get that in the water this year, motors and running gear arrived from M.A.C.K. Saturday, am anxious to get started on figuring all that out. Still open to new ideas, shortening the servo arm may help the situation. Lots of things to ponder. Thanks for the response.

Norm
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Old May 15, 2014, 05:18 AM
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Servo under the deck.

Hi Norm,

If you want to clear the room under the seat, so it'll fit properly, why not place the servo under the deck, on port or starboard?

This will require some king of servo holder to be made out of angled aluminum, but that should not be an issue, if you can build a boat like that...

Regards, Jan.
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Old May 15, 2014, 09:58 AM
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Mount servo under deck

That's something I haven't looked at but I will study that idea abd see if it's possible. I'm not sure there is enough room between the side and the seat for the servo, possibly a smaller servo would fit. It's an interesting idea, I will investigate the possibility and let you know what I discover. Thanks for your post and interest.

Norm
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Old May 19, 2014, 10:15 AM
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Finally got to the lake

We had a good weather day in Minnesota today, I believe our fourth official 70 since last October, still nothing higher than 74 . Took all 3 boats to an area where many model boaters operate their boats on nice Sunday afternoons. I watched one boater reattach a coupling to the drive line on a friend of his boats, another Chris Craft, and I saw a Futaba rudder servo that was so small I couldn't believe it. It looks like it would be a great servo for our Chris Crafts under seat rudder servo. I didn't see any numbers on it, the boat looked like it was an older build so I'm not sure it is still available, but I'm going to research it and see if I can find something similar. The boater who was doing the reattachment said he had even smaller servos, but I didn't get any other info from him. My Chris Craft started out running well except I can not get the rudder servo to move enough to make the boat turn properly. There was a stiff breeze, and ultimately the boat refused to go forward, but it would go in reverse. Have no idea what's up with that as the prop is spinning as it should, no debris anywhere on the drive line, just won't go forward. Thanks to some young fisher people who snagged the boat and brought it safely to shore. Further examination shows that the prop is loosely turning when power is sent to the motor but is not tight on the drive shaft. I'm not sure if the pin fell out but something like that must have happened. Using the nylon prop that came with the kit, time to change to a metal prop and get it secured to the drive shaft and solve that problem. Also time to change servos and all the connections, start over in a new direction to make the boat turn as it should.
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Old May 19, 2014, 04:58 PM
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I can feel for you. The first 2 times I put my Chris in the water I had issue with it running. I also had a rudder issues, which I think I have solved. I removed the horn and sand it down some and made sure I rounded off the end. Then I drilled a hole in the end and reattched everything. The hole further in and the end sanded off, allows for more movement of the arm and thus a tighter turning radius. I have yet to put the theory to practice, but from the looks of it on dry land, it should do the trick.

Scott
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