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View Poll Results: Whatís the most important thing to you?
Lowest possible cost 3 23.08%
Make it as small and light as possible 6 46.15%
Battery longevity is very important 3 23.08%
Highest power possible 3 23.08%
Highest RPM possible 2 15.38%
Only use through hole construction 2 15.38%
No winding of transformers 4 30.77%
Group buy of components including boards 0 0%
Group buy of boards only 1 7.69%
Iíd rather buy a kit with everything in it 0 0%
I want to buy a pre-built & pre-programmed system 0 0%
I only want to use a 4.8v Ni-MH battery 2 15.38%
I only want to use a 2S battery 1 7.69%
I only want to use a 3S battery 1 7.69%
I want to use a 4.8v battery to 3S battery 5 38.46%
I want to use only off the shelf parts from Digi-Key or Mouser 3 23.08%
I want the Timer board to be separate from the HV board 6 46.15%
I want a combination Timer & HV board 1 7.69%
I want all the options possible using jumpers 3 23.08%
I want a USB connection 2 15.38%
I want a serial connection (DB9) and Iíll use my own USB adapter 3 23.08%
I want a ICSP connection 3 23.08%
I want a premade parts list (BOM) at Digi-Key 2 15.38%
I want a premade project parts list (BOM) at Mouser 1 7.69%
I want 1 design and 1 design only 1 7.69%
I want optional designs to choose from and Ill make the boards myself 8 61.54%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 13. You may not vote on this poll

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Old Dec 05, 2012, 07:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gr8flyer55 View Post
Ray, I was testing the new timer board with my original ignitions with the toroid transformer on it and ran into a snag. ...........

John
PM sent.

Ray
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Old Dec 06, 2012, 06:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gr8flyer55 View Post
There have been inquiries as to the possibility to switch the table via a connection to the receiver thru a servo function lead. To me, I think it would be possible only with an opto kill switch arrangement to prevent the possibility of the dreaded RFI. Anyone have views on this arrangement?

John
I was going to use/make a PIC or PICAXE MCU board that hooks up to 1 channel on the Rx. The R/C Switch (google "RC Switch") I was going to use was for use with a camera. The PIC is for the camera and the PICAXE is for the timing or kill switch but, you can use them any way you want. I guess I'll need to use 2, 1 for the switch and 1 for the camera. I have attached the BIT-Switch zip file which I got from http://www.rc-cam.com/projects.htm it is copyrighted and only for hobbist use. Please read the PDF. Let me know what you think? I'll upload a schematic and board layout after I build a good one, as soon as I get a chance.

Ray
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Old Dec 07, 2012, 12:44 AM
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Joined Dec 2012
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"B" board tested

Ray, I just finished building 2 of the revised "B" boards complete with switches and LEDs. Tested the first one and it works great! I'll test the second one tomorrow on my engine. There's no reason it won't work perfectly. Is Rob's changed code he posted complete? I want to paste my user settings and curves into it to see if the switches function with the changes he made to it after I compile it. I used version #1 12F683 combination for my test. I hope Rob's source he edited was for the 1840 chip.

John
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Old Dec 07, 2012, 07:16 AM
Dave the Rave
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871 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nav_Aids View Post
I was going to use/make a PIC or PICAXE MCU board that hooks up to 1 channel on the Rx. The R/C Switch (google "RC Switch") I was going to use was for use with a camera. The PIC is for the camera and the PICAXE is for the timing or kill switch but, you can use them any way you want. I guess I'll need to use 2, 1 for the switch and 1 for the camera. I have attached the BIT-Switch zip file which I got from http://www.rc-cam.com/projects.htm it is copyrighted and only for hobbist use. Please read the PDF. Let me know what you think? I'll upload a schematic and board layout after I build a good one, as soon as I get a chance.

Ray
For what it's worth, guys, I've used this same type circuit, but with my own personal programming, as a kill switch on my gas engines for a long time. My version also looks for a loss of signal, and kills the ignition if there is no valid signal coming from the Tx/Rx. The option labeled "[S1] Isolated On/Off Control" uses an opto-isolator (AVQ212) that will successfully separate the receiver from whatever it's switching. You may need to update that part number, I think the AVQ212 is discontinued, just search Digikey for a newer part.
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Old Dec 07, 2012, 10:24 AM
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Thanks dmccormick001 for the info, this is what we need to finish up this project.
I'll see if the AVQ212 is still good and if not I'll find a replacement for it.

Ray

Update: I can't find the AVQ212 but, others have used the 4N25 instead with great success. I have used the 4N25 in high voltage circuits and it works great.
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Old Dec 07, 2012, 10:55 AM
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More on R/C Switches

The circuit that dmccormick001 was talking about is located at BIT-Switch www.rc-cam.com/bitsw.htm Switch Example S1.

To switch the timing or to use in-flight 'Kill' or even turn LEDS on/off use an R/C Switch like we have been talking about. There are lots of different designs that you can make or buy. This one from Pololu is small and cheap. www.pololu.com/catalog/product/1210

Here is a good one if you want to make your own. www.rc-cam.com/bitsw.htm
Here is one that does not require programming but, there is no explaination on how the circuit works. http://www.diyrc.com/aiptekmod.htm IMHO it seems that the R/C network R1 and C1 will reset U1a after a given amount of time keeping U1b reset until the servo pulse width of the Rx is small enough to set the 'D' pin and clock U2b. This would cause the flip-flop U1b outputs (Q and Qnot) to change state. You can adjust this circuit by changing R1 to a varible resistor.

You can use one of the circuits shown at www.rc-cam.com/bitsw.htm to ground out the Hall signal or to apply a low or high to any pin. In both cases above you just need 1 open Rx channel for each r/c-switch you want to use.

Ray
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Old Dec 07, 2012, 01:43 PM
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I just found a potential problem with the B boards I built. While in operation if you slightly touch anywhere near the optoisolator chip, body capacitance turns off the opto output to the hv board. The timer board is still functioning, checked that by observing the signal LEDs and they are still blinking normally. I'll have to halt production on these boards now until I find what's causing it. I switched opto's, going from a 4N25 to a 4N35 and no changes noted, still malfunctions. This is not good! If I run the signal direct from the output pin on the pic to input on the hv board, no problem. In the previous condition malfunction, removing power to the circuit and re-powering the timer has no effect on the malfunction. The only way it will restart is to leave it sit for at least 2 minutes, power up and it begins functioning again. Totally repeatable too, not just a rare occurance. Tried it at least 2 dozen times and same thing. Tried my other finished boards just in case it was a bad board, nope, they all do it. Really stuck now, whole project on hold for awhile.

John
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Old Dec 07, 2012, 02:42 PM
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John the resistor (R6) for the LED side of the op-amp is it still 470ohm? and are you running it at 5v. If you are change the resistor R6 to 220 ohm. The increased current should knock down the capacitance effect. If this does not work change R11 to 100 ohms (PIN 5) and put a 100k ohm resistor between PIN 6 and ground. Check the temperature of the opto when running and let me know how it works out.

Another thing you can do is, if you have a scratch owl or something similar, make sure you are making contact with the metal shaft, carefully touch the input to the opto PIN 1 and the output (Signal out PIN 5) and see which one kills the engine/signal and we will know which side to concentrate our efforts on.

Ray
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Old Dec 07, 2012, 04:45 PM
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optoisolator

Ray, the culprit is pin 6, the base connection to the transistor output. Is there a different opto we can use without the internal base connection?

John
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Old Dec 07, 2012, 05:09 PM
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I'm liking the new forum so far! Great job starting this thread Ray!

I really like the BIT-Switch project, looks like we're already getting some great ideas here! The way the switch inputs are debounced I had always been thinking might work with a PWM signal also with a little tweaking. We could also integrate the PIC10F202 on our timer boards if I can't get the switches working well with PWM input.

I see the source isn't available for the BIT-Switch. It sure would be nice to be able to set multiple switch function ranges on the PWM channel. We still have one pin left on the 1840, so I'll see if I can't make that into a PWM pin that can operate the kill and table switches from a single RC channel.

This $10 RC switch controls 7 outputs from one RC channel...
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...f_Switch_.html

So I think it's not unreasonable to control a couple switches from a single pin on our 1840.


-Jake
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Old Dec 07, 2012, 05:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gr8flyer55 View Post
Ray, the culprit is pin 6, the base connection to the transistor output. Is there a different opto we can use without the internal base connection?

John
Yes there is I just have to go through my library to find it. Did you try a 100k or 10k ohm on PIN 6 to ground? how about changing R11 to 100 ohms (PIN 5) to power (+) Vdd. I've had this problem before on other boards and circuits.

Ray
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Old Dec 07, 2012, 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by jakestew View Post
I'm liking the new forum so far! Great job starting this thread Ray!

I really like the BIT-Switch project, looks like we're already getting some great ideas here! The way the switch inputs are debounced I had always been thinking might work with a PWM signal also with a little tweaking. We could also integrate the PIC10F202 on our timer boards if I can't get the switches working well with PWM input.

I see the source isn't available for the BIT-Switch. It sure would be nice to be able to set multiple switch function ranges on the PWM channel. We still have one pin left on the 1840, so I'll see if I can't make that into a PWM pin that can operate the kill and table switches from a single RC channel.

Hi Jake, I'm glad to see you finally made it over here and thank you for the complement. Yah, bit-switch is a neat little project. No source just the hex code. I have a source code for the PICAXE that is almost the same as the bit-switch. I just haven't had time to look at it, never mind try to port it over to 'C'.


Quote:
This $10 RC switch controls 7 outputs from one RC channel...
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...f_Switch_.html

So I think it's not unreasonable to control a couple switches from a single pin on our 1840.


-Jake
I can see a couple of R/C switches but, 7, I'm not sure about that. Must be a combination of stick moves and normal switches.

Ray

P.S. If you are having trouble downloading and opening the zip files from http://www.rc-cam.com it could be because the "Use HTTP 1.1" option in internet tools (IE) is turned on. If you have this problem PM me and I'll send you the instructions to turn it off.
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Old Dec 07, 2012, 07:19 PM
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Opto with no base connection

Ray, Rob pointed me in the right direction once again..a CNY17F opto has no base. It is possible that the 2 I just pulled out of a new package are faulty cause I get no function out of either one on my timer boards. Oh well, guess I'll live with the shutoff for awhile.

John
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Old Dec 08, 2012, 05:42 AM
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Have fun.
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Old Dec 08, 2012, 05:51 AM
"MAYONNAISE"
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Joined Jun 2004
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Hi, Gompy

CNY 17-2 ( NOT "F" ) is a component I use lots ( 100's in the drawer... )

Only CNY17F doesn't have base connected ...

Alain
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