Hey Hew and Al,

Where are you guys staying at the Nationals. I am thinking the Best Western just down the road from the pond. Bar and restaurant on site.

Ted

Haven't made plans yet, but that might be the place.
I will get back with you as soon as we decide.

I dont think pigmented resins are allowed yet throughout the boat, but this is just the external coat instead of paint. The laminated layers of cloth are all with clear epoxy.

I tried to make an epoxy gelcoat by adding some red pigment and a thickening agent, but its almost impossible to get it opaque enough. If you look in the picture, you will see the boat is fairly transparent.

In trying to get enough pigmented resin into the mould to make it opaque, I ended up with a fairly thick layer and a boat 70 grams underweight. The painted boat is 280g underweight by comparison.

The extra 200g of epoxy coating have definitely made the boat a bit thicker and noticeably stiffer, even though they have the same layup (80g, 165g,165g)

Originally Posted by Craig Richards

I dont think pigmented resins are allowed yet throughout the boat, but this is just the external coat instead of paint. )

Pigmented resins are allowed - see Rulee D 2.1(B)

"(b) In glass fibre reinforced plastic:
(1) an external gel coat is optional and may be pigmented,"
Found in the latest IOM rules:-
http://www.iomclass.org/class-rules/
or
http://www.iomclass.org/doc-files/Te...011_020211.pdf

Brian

To clarify, Yes, pigmented resins are allowed in the outer layer, or "gelcoat", but not in the fiberglass layup.

The reason it was brought up is that there is currently a request for rule change to allow pigmented resins throughout the layup. Read it here: http://www.iomclass.org/doc-files/Te...20proposal.pdf

Hi Guys. Any thoughts on good paint for an IOM? I have an older boat that could use some more paint.

Thanks!

I'm partial to automotive, 2 part clear over the top of a base coat of color (basecoat-clearcoat systems). They are more expensive because the smallest they sell is a quart. They typically have a good UV inhibitor in the clear to help prevent fading.

You can even use waterbased AutoAir type colors that DO come in small containers, then shoot the clear over it. The clear can be wetsanded and polished nicely.

I would sand off as much of the old paint as you can. No need for any extra weight there!

Hew,
Any particular brand name for the bigger stuff that you recommend?

It has white gel coat I believe, but it needs some tlc.

Andy

I acquired a Pikanto built in Australia by peter morris. So far have not been able to acquire any rake numbers that work. Craig Smith was kind enough to send me some info with rake, but that was not it for this boat. If anyone out there has any A or B rig rake info for this boat or other tuning tips that would help me get this boat up to speed. The boat has a round 11.1 MM mast. Ryan

Hi Ryan,
I may be able to help I own a Pikanto built by Zvonko Jelecic can you get a closer picture of the mast ram area to see mast position please I'll get some pictures on here later of my mast position marks.

Give him a measurement from the middle mast band to the stern,rig in the boat and backstay on.

Flatlandsailor, The last couple of boats I have done with Transtar 6864 High Gloss clear, with the hardener added. This was over a Transtar color basecoat on one boat, and over Autoair, waterbased color on my "mermaid" boat.

Call around to auto parts shops to see if any carry Transtar paints. This is actually an inexpensive line of auto paints. There are better, more expensive lines too, but for our purposes, should be good.

Could someone tell me what size the sail numbers need to be? I for some reason cannot find that in the rules?

ISAF Rules Appendix E

Try Here:
http://www.3rryc.org.uk/resources/MY...gram_Oct09.pdf

Brian