Originally Posted by boulier1

I did read not only the first 5 posts but the first hundred pages. Nothing related specifically to #3, none of the instructions worked, there is no red led, the camera powers up in photo mode NOT video. By chance I found Chucks web site...neat, concise and to the point. Immediately I was able to ascertain I had
#3's, got info on the YELLOW led and instructions on how to operate as well as how to fix the charging problem, replaced diode and it works. And no I did not ask for nor did I expect a warm welcome. And I did thank the only one to help and understood my frustration.

Well done !
You turn up on a thread that has no relevance whatsoever to your camera.
Complain about all the B.S posts and then expect assistance. I guess you regard them as B.S because they don't cover your problem and why would they? The thread title states it's about the No11 camera. So it's our fault that you don't know what you bought ?

A little research would have thrown up Chuck's site but, hey, why go to the trouble of searching properly. Much easier to jump into something not related to your problem and then whinge about it.

Ok, aside from the drama.......has anyone aside from me ordered the new v2 number 11 with the 120 degree lens?

Originally Posted by hidaven

Ok, aside from the drama.......has anyone aside from me ordered the new v2 number 11 with the 120 degree lens?

It is tempting, looks like modular lens assy could be interchangable, plug in battery. They did a nice job. I use my homemade 120 cam a lot. Please post some video and comments when you get it.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=8296

Have had my #11 for almost 9 months now still working alright [touch on wood] except for the battery that can't record more than 10 minutes now. Been posting lots of cap-brim cam footage of my flying and in-flight footage sticking the slim-down de-cased gut under the belly of my mCPx on my YouTube channel. Last weekend, one thing led to another and I stuck the de-cased gut to my friend's kid's kite to take some aerial footage. If you feel dizzy easy, don't watch...

How many engineers does it take to fly a kite? (6 min 56 sec)

I've just got a no.11 version 2 camera. I have one of those Emergency chargers that takes an AA battery (didn’t come with the camera, I already had it)and I understand if I connect it to the cam I’ll get maybe another 20 minutes if I use something like a 2500mah rechargeable. But although I have 6 different connecting cables none of them are right at the cam end of course! Anyone know where I can get a connector with a 3.5mm jack on one end and a plug for the new small 8 pin #11 v2 socket on the other? Looked on EBay to no avail (though it’s hard to know what’s the best search parameter!).
Many thanks

Originally Posted by joebigtoe

I've just got a no.11 version 2 camera. I have one of those Emergency chargers that takes an AA battery (didn’t come with the camera, I already had it)and I understand if I connect it to the cam I’ll get maybe another 20 minutes if I use something like a 2500mah rechargeable. But although I have 6 different connecting cables none of them are right at the cam end of course! Anyone know where I can get a connector with a 3.5mm jack on one end and a plug for the new small 8 pin #11 v2 socket on the other? Looked on EBay to no avail (though it’s hard to know what’s the best search parameter!).
Many thanks

I don't have a version 2, but the only place you could obtain such a cable is from one of the official #11 sellers - but I doubt they have one with the new 8-pin mini-USB plug. They may, however, be kind enough to make the cable for you. It doesn't hurt to ask . The problem with the (old) #11 is that it always used a "special" cable for continuous recording. I don't know if version 2 still uses this system.

FWIW, I had a few of those emergency charges, but found them totally useless and unreliable.

I've watched a comparison from #11 to #16 and I figured what the heck. I've ordered the #16 and will try it out on my F45 and maybe the 9116 or S800G.
Thanks for all the postings on here!

Originally Posted by Isoprop

Well, this is a #11 thread, but since you are new to these cameras it can be confusing at first. Basically, there are only 3 cameras in the keychain 808 format with a decent HD, 720p, to chose from: #11, #16 and #18. You may find one or two other cameras claiming 720p, but the #11, #16 and #18 are the three most popular 808s available.

Except for the slightly better pricing, the #11 is an old model and is no longer properly supported in the form of firmware updates. The #18 is from the same developer and is based on the #11. Video quality is good, and it video-out. Colors are slightly more saturated (unnatural) than the #16, but some people prefer these colors. The #18 can be configured by loading different firmware versions, but there are currently only 5 versions available. If the configuration you want is available, then you're OK.

The #16 is in a completely different league. Compared to the 5 configuration possibilities of the #18 (in the form of firmware versions), the #16 currently well over 6000 configuration possibilities!! And this doesn't include the choice of AVI or MOV video output, which requires a different firmware. The camera can be configured by using a user-friendly, free, GUI program (Windows only) which also includes an integrated instruction manual.
Colors produced by the #16 are more natural. The current #16 does not yet have video out, but the new hardware version, which is expected to be available any day now, does. A new GUI setup program will be available at the same time. Firmware for the new hardware design is backward-compatible to previous versions, but the video-out will obviously not work on earlier models.
The #16 developer monitors the #16 thread and, if possible, will implement frequently asked for parameters. There is also excellent communication between Tom and the developer.

[Edit] Didn't realize your question had been answered already. Sorry, if my post duplicates previous information. May be useful all the same, so I decided not to delete. [/Edit]

I thought I read that the #18 has dropped frame issues which are less of an issue with the #11 and #16.. anyone experienced this?

Originally Posted by Isoprop

I don't have a version 2, but the only place you could obtain such a cable is from one of the official #11 sellers - but I doubt they have one with the new 8-pin mini-USB plug. They may, however, be kind enough to make the cable for you. It doesn't hurt to ask . The problem with the (old) #11 is that it always used a "special" cable for continuous recording. I don't know if version 2 still uses this system.

FWIW, I had a few of those emergency charges, but found them totally useless and unreliable.

Thanks for that. I did approach the seller but they want to sell me a charger which costs as much as the camera-and from what you're saying these charges aren't exactly brilliant anyway. Guess I should have gone for the Jumbo version.
Regards

Originally Posted by markm75

I thought I read that the #18 has dropped frame issues which are less of an issue with the #11 and #16.. anyone experienced this?

A lot of issues were corrected in the latest #18. I don't have a #18 myself, so I can't compare the three cameras. My only experience with a #18 was when I upgraded my #11 to a #18, but it was awful. However, that was before the latest firmware updates. Also, I don't tend to use my cameras in the dark (bad lighting), which is the only place that dropped frames will occur.

Since all cameras use the same processor (and CMOS lens assembly?), I would expect the dropped frame issue is similar, but not necessarily the same, with all 3 cameras. In normal lighting conditions there is absolutely no problem. It's only in dark conditions that dropped frames can occur. There are reports where people say the #16 has less dropped frames in poor lighting, and then others who say the #11, or #18 are better. I guess it's anyone's guess to which camera performs better in sup-optimal conditions, and it most probably depends on the type of bad lighting condition as well. It should be noted, however, that these cameras come with a small CMOS sensor and lens and are not optimized for poor lighting conditions.

Sorry I don't have a better answer, but it would need someone to objectively compare all three cameras in the same lighting conditions at the same time. Even a test like this wouldn't tell the true story because slightly different lighting conditions may well yield different results.

There have been some pretty impressive videos of thunderstorms and night-life taken with these cameras, but since there was a lot of "light" in the scenes, I don't think the lighting conditions can be correctly described as poor.

Personally, I don't think the number of dropped frames is an issue, even cameras costing much more will struggle in bad lighting. There are many much more important factors to consider before deciding which camera is best.

deleted

I flew my MQX with the #11 808 on it yesterday. I haven't used it for a while. The MQX had a hard landing from several feet up and apparently landed on the camera because there is a scuff on the cam case corner near the shutter button. There wasn't any new videos on the card so I guess I didn't turn it on properly or the battery is bad. When I plug it in now, the red light comes on but the computer doesn't recognize that the camera is plugged in and the cam on/off button doesn't turn it on at all. Do I have a bad battery or is the cam bad? I've already have a #16 and ordered another one today in case the #11 is toast.

P.S. Does anybody on here use the Hobby King wing cam?

Maybe the power button is not making good contact.

I have a HK wing cam, problems with color fluctuation, exposure (ground is dark when sky in view), some dupe frames. Not bad lens, now in my #11. Video can be done with editing of the bad bits. Not bad for still frames

Here's mine, see previous posts in this thread.

After being plugged in a while, the red light goes out so it appears the battery is charging.

Originally Posted by Raycamaro

After being plugged in a while, the red light goes out so it appears the battery is charging.

The charging circuitry is independent from the firmware, so if the charging circuitry works, it doesn't mean the camera itself works.

You didn't mention if you have an "old" or a "new" style #11. If you have the new style, perhaps the CMOS lens assembly is not making proper contact in the connector. I suggest you remove the battery and remove and reinsert the lens assembly. I don't have the new #11, but believe it has a removable CMOS lens assembly (like the #16). If not, then my reply is incorrect.

I would also check that the two crystals (those two metal "cans") have not been bent by the crash. They should not be making contact with any nearby components.

If not already done, I would definitely disconnect the battery for a few seconds and press the reset button. Swapping batteries wouldn't do any harm either.

You may also be able to evaluate if the firmware is running at all by trying to set the date and time. If the file disappears after you set the date, then the firmware is running. In my experience, a dead #11 is, in most cases, due to problems with the CMOS lens assembly. If you have an "old" #11 with the soldered assembly, then you are out of luck. I don't think you'll be able to find a suitable replacement.