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Old Jan 06, 2013, 04:26 PM
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GP Dirty Birdy ARF Build issue

Having trouble assembling the horizontal stabs. Right side does not seat flush with fuse no matter how much I sand it. Any thoughts?
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Old Jan 06, 2013, 05:08 PM
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Put a straight edge along the hinge line. If it's straight, fill the gap on the stab root with a thin sheet of balsa and sand to fit. If it's not straight, send stabs back to Hobbico for a replacement - the right stab was not built properly.

David
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Old Jan 06, 2013, 05:28 PM
Paul Pappas AMA 42520
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Hey Lumpy05,

I noticed this issue when assembling the GP DB ARF’s.

The carbon fiber shaft is to long sometimes, cut of 1/8 of an inch and everything should fit like a glove. When cutting the shaft wrap some tape around the area and use a Dremel type cutoff wheel for best results. Then just remove tape and chamfer the tube edges.


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Having trouble assembling the horizontal stabs. Right side does not seat flush with fuse no matter how much I sand it. Any thoughts?
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Old Jan 06, 2013, 05:38 PM
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That was a good thought about the right side not being made properly. So I tried a few things, it appears the hinge line is straight, hard to say because I cant run the straight edge through the rudder. But it appears straight.

I tried flipping them over and reversing the stabs. The right side fits flush when on the left side and the left side has the same gap when on the right side. That seems to confirm that the angle of the fuselage surface is the problem. So I sanded it at the rear, didnt seem to make any difference in the gap.

So I guess Ill contact Great Planes tomorrow and see what they say before I try filling in the gap which I dont want to do because Ill have to try to buy paint and match the color.

Thanks for the idea.
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Old Jan 06, 2013, 05:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pitstop000 View Post
Hey Lumpy05,

I noticed this issue when assembling the GP DB ARF’s.

The carbon fiber shaft is to long sometimes, cut of 1/8 of an inch and everything should fit like a glove. When cutting the shaft wrap some tape around the area and use a Dremel type cutoff wheel for best results. Then just remove tape and chamfer the tube edges.
I dont see how this could be on mine, I have tried putting just the right side on which would allow the shafts to push over to the other side and it just wont fit flush.
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Old Jan 06, 2013, 09:46 PM
Paul Pappas AMA 42520
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It seems then that the right panel was probably built wrong .

What happens when you flip the stabs? Does the left side have the gap now?

This little test should verify that it’s a stab issue and rule out the fuse.
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Old Jan 07, 2013, 07:08 AM
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No when I flip them the problem remains on the right side, I am now convinced that the fusealge surface is not made at the correct angle.
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Old Jan 10, 2013, 07:15 AM
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No when I flip them the problem remains on the right side, I am now convinced that the fusealge surface is not made at the correct angle.
I had a similar issue with mine the other night (just started the ARF this week). I took off roughly a sixteenth of an inch per side, sanded the stab/fuse mating surface (removed the paint), and the stabs slide completely on with little if any gap.
Other big issue, maybe check yours, is the wing / fuse saddle fit on mine.... simply sucks ! I had to remove most of the epoxy/glass that is over the wing mounting plate to reduce the gap between the saddle and the wing. In fact, that area had a crown built up that was easily over one sixteenth above the fuse fairings (saddle). Also had to open up the leading edge dowel holes so the leading edge would sit on the saddle. After that, the gap in the middle of the saddle is still nearly 1/8" and the wing is not parallel to the stab so it still needs shimming. This sucks !
Mark
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Old Jan 11, 2013, 12:03 PM
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I sanded mine quite a bit and then decided to call hobbico, I hope to get a replacment fuselage. I have not tried fitting the wing yet. Sounds like the production is a little sloppy on these. Email hobbico if you cant fix to your satisifaction, they asked me to email pictures of the issue with a description and my shipping address. Hopefully I can get a good fuselage because otherwise mine is beautiful! I can't wait to get it assembled and fly it!
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Old Jan 11, 2013, 04:31 PM
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I'll make it work as I don't have the time to snap pics and repack for sending it back etc. I went through roughly the same issues with the H9 P-7 too (wing saddle). Hard to believe others don't have the same issues.
On another note, has anyone mounted the engine in an upright position? The mount fits but I haven't checked the thrust line yet; might have to lengthen the bolt holes to get it centered is all. I like the DBs with the engine mounted upright. Anyone?
Mark
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Old Jan 11, 2013, 07:46 PM
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I like the DBs with the engine mounted upright. Anyone?
Mark
Yessir!

My DB40 has it's YS 45 FS mounted upright. Pipe down the side. I'm debating on whether to swap it for a Rossi 45 though. The engine is however longer and I'd have to retrofit things up front...

David
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Old Jan 11, 2013, 10:07 PM
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David,
It is an odd, kind of cheapy fix, but you might try looking at how a Goldberg spinner fits. The backplate extends back a little from the face of the thrust washer, or at least they used to. I am not totally certain they are still made like that. But if they are, and if the length isn't much different it may be acceptable without a lot of retrofitting. I am not that fond of plastic spinners, though I have never had a Goldberg spinner fail. A person who had access to a lathe perhaps could turn a metal backplate for a Tru turn or other aluminum spinner that extended back some and cover any nose to spinner backplate gap. Just a thought. It worked for me once, though not on a prized pattern plane.
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Old Jan 12, 2013, 09:55 PM
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Good call. Du-Bro spinners also have the same protrusion as the Goldberg.
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Old Jan 13, 2013, 01:42 AM
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Excellent suggestions!

If this allows the longer European 45 size engines to be installed without having to move the FW back, the standard setup is that much more flexible.

Thanks, David
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Old Jan 13, 2013, 08:20 PM
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I use either or on the spinners too David. If I screw up the distance from the nose ring to the spinner back plate, a Goldberg or Dubro spinner usually saves the day. Regarding the upright engine on the DB, I'm curious if anyone has done it on the Tower DB (ARF)?
On another note, anyone know where I can get a Bootlegger canopy for a Compulegger?
KIDDING, JUST KIDDING!
Mark
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