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Old Jan 23, 2013, 02:52 AM
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ALEX HEWSON's Avatar
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Sean, you are the man!

Nuf said!
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Old Jan 24, 2013, 01:43 PM
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wyong, NSW, Aust
Joined Apr 2005
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Hi,

From helping refinish my DG the sanding blocks used where made of a layer of rubber (around 4mm from memory) glued to various thickness of plastic sheet from 1mm to 10mm this made great sanding blocks and depending on the plastic used (eg lexen, perpex) and the thickness you had a block which would be bendy or stiff so you pick the block for the curve you are working on and you get more than just a tiny contact point and much easier than just by hand.

Anyway keep up the great work.

regards,
Arie
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Old Jan 25, 2013, 12:52 AM
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Sunshine Coast, Australia
Joined Jun 2007
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Thanks for the tip Arie, sounds like a good way to do it.

These wingtips are tricky to sand, there are a lot of square edges and I've been using hard aluminium U-channels as sanding blocks with paper glued on with spray adhesive to make doubly sure I don't round off any corners. Still have to resort to soft sanding blocks on the last couple of inches at the tip.

There's some pretty nasty weather headed our way that should hang around for a week or so which is going to delay painting the final coats.
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Old Jan 25, 2013, 01:00 AM
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gold coast australia
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Ha ha...lol... Like the new avitar..

Is that higgins..in a noodle box packet.
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Old Jan 25, 2013, 02:44 AM
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SlowBarless's Avatar
Brisbane
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+1 on the weather, my shed isnt humidity controlled or heated. With all this rain, there wont be many resin bottles getting opened.

Sean it would be awesome to come check out the model once you've got the moulds done. Might have to pick your brain on a few things Keep up the awesome work!
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Old Jan 25, 2013, 05:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timbuck View Post
Ha ha...lol... Like the new avitar..

Is that higgins..in a noodle box packet.
Hehe, no I got it off the interweb, looks just like Higgins though.


Quote:
Originally Posted by SlowBarless View Post
... Sean it would be awesome to come check out the model once you've got the moulds done. Might have to pick your brain on a few things Keep up the awesome work!
That'd be great, always good to share ideas.
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Old Jan 29, 2013, 05:47 AM
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SlowBarless's Avatar
Brisbane
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So how are you going to tackle the wing moulds Sean? Just the usual heavy fiberglass layup? What sort of tooling coat are you going to go for?

Have you considered just casting the moulds from Alluminium filled casting resin? Easy as mix and pour. Very strong and stable to. A bit pricy though, it cost me just over $500 for a 25kg drum here in Brisbane
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Old Jan 30, 2013, 08:22 PM
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Sunshine Coast, Australia
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I'll be making the wing moulds with either an epoxy based tooling resin or Duratec for the surface coat backed up with fg/carbon and poraver similar to the way the stabiliser mould was made earlier in this thread, but with a few improvements based on a little more experience since that mould was made. This is a technique I'm familiar with and makes nice light stiff moulds.

The aluminium filled resin you've got sounds fantastic, but for this project I'd feel safer sticking to what I know, I find I make less mistakes when I stay in more familiar territory when working with composites (no material ever seems to behave as you'd expect first time around).

PS what is the name of the ali filled resin you have?
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Old Jan 30, 2013, 08:38 PM
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Sunshine Coast, Australia
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First Part

I popped the first usable Deepend part out this morning - a wing joiner. This is a solid carbon joiner meant for use in heavy versions of the Deepend. It measures 35mm x 10.5 x 200 and without the ends cut off weighs about 120g. It took 24 layers of 400gsm uni carbon to make.... I possibly could have squeezed another couple of layers in there but it did take quite an effort to clamp down, although once the excess resin had oozed out the ends it wasn't too bad.

Any ideas on the best tool for cutting the ends off this? I don't have many tools suitable - only have a jigsaw, small scroll saw and a dremel. I'm leaning towards using the jigsaw then cleaning up with a disc sander.
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Old Jan 30, 2013, 09:19 PM
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Would a hacksaw provide a cleaner cut?
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Old Jan 30, 2013, 09:37 PM
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Larrikin's Avatar
Australia, QLD, Elimbah
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Originally Posted by AUSELECTRIC View Post
Would a hacksaw provide a cleaner cut?
+1
I reckon a jigsaw could make for an ugly edge on the cutting stroke. A hacksaw, you can work your way around the perimeter for a clean edge then hook into it.
Just one man's opinion.
D.
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Old Jan 30, 2013, 09:55 PM
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Australia, NSW, Warriewood
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I cut my carbon with a drop saw just using the timber blade. It's quick and neat.
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Old Jan 30, 2013, 10:02 PM
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Sunshine Coast, Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larrikin View Post
+1
I reckon a jigsaw could make for an ugly edge on the cutting stroke. A hacksaw, you can work your way around the perimeter for a clean edge then hook into it.
Just one man's opinion.
D.
Sounds like it would do a good job but I might need a better hacksaw, my cheapie wanders all over the place. Would you recommend any particular type of blade?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Snowy170 View Post
I cut my carbon with a drop saw just using the timber blade. It's quick and neat.
Sounds perfect but I don't think I'd have much use for a drop saw so it would be hard to justify buying one.

What about one of those oscillating cutters? Been tempted to get one for other tasks as well.
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Old Jan 30, 2013, 10:08 PM
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I think I bought one of my drop saws from bunnings for $50
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Old Jan 30, 2013, 10:32 PM
Don't grow up, it's a TRAP !!!
Larrikin's Avatar
Australia, QLD, Elimbah
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sean Moloney View Post
What about one of those oscillating cutters? Been tempted to get one for other tasks as well.
How about a Dual Saw????
Available from most larger retailers Kmart, Big W etc. I don't know their cost but they look pretty versatile.
Google it?
D.
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