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For those of us that haven't tried an airbrush yet, thought I'd post a link to Harbor Freight and the two airbrushes that I go to most often. Most airbrushes cost way too much, but Harbor Freight makes it reasonable for most of us. The Dual Action is what I did for this build, because it has fine control and puts out very little paint when you need that. (For Micros). It is a real bargan at $19.99 BTW. Sometimes they even have sales and you can get one for $15-16.00 like I did. The other is great for painting park flyers, and general get lots of paint on something, and doesn't hurt is your ruin a jar or two since you get five in a set for $11.99. Fred ![]() |
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canapy
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Have you glide tested yet?...... ......
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If you go to Post #100, post #101, and post #103 it will walk you through the canopy making on this one. The plug is faom, a bit of basswood, covered in glass. The canopy is clear heat shrink wrap sold at LHS bt company named Trinity to cover Old style NiCd batteries with. Simple and light. Maiden ETA ? It's 6 degrees Fahrenheit (-14.4 Celsius) outside right now, but soon, LOL! Too cold for me! ![]() I had mentioned somewhere here that loading down the chuck glider made a good glide test on glide angle and CG location. It does like to have some speed on at this size and weight. Inside my Man Den (basement) I have powered her up and aimed it at the couch a few feet away, with no pushrods on yet, and the fan is obviously 'picking' up steam' so to say, but this was no real test if you know what I mean. Fred
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Nothing to really grip. Almost got the pushrods done so I'll be back! ![]() Fred
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Control rods and horns.
I decided to try something different this time on my control rod setup. I have used carbon fiber pushrods before, usually with music wire ends. In an effort to save weight I thought I would try some tiny wood clevis ends and horns, using plywood, basswood, and a small amount of Fiberglass. Ths should be lighter and much more snag free when landing on the belly. Maybe I can prevent the need for servo arm covers.
To start, all clevis ears and the horns will be from 1/64" plywood (0.01625" thick). Te servo ends I used a coffee stiring stick (basswood) and sanded it down to the thickness of the servo arms which is 1mm (0.03937 Wide). So far so good, then I just needed to strip the wood to ear width and decided to go for 3mm as a rough cut before glue and sanding. I am using thick CyA, and thin CyA for assembly. My actual pushrod shown is 0.020" in diameter (0.508mm). This is some tiny stuff and I think it is going to help save on weight. ![]() Fred
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heet bill ![]() ![]() keep up the helpful tips. Ken ..
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Heat gun, but on low, and kept it far away as possible since the foam plug could have been damaged (don't ask how I know). Fred
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