Originally Posted by slopetrashuk

Well, like I said - Unlucky. My pushrod is holding up fine but I think the rudder would be better with a kevlar closed loop (pull/pull) system inside the boom.

Just two-and-a-bit years late with the reply Andy, is that a record ?

Just finished my own Topsky 2, it has closed loop on both rudder and elevator - that's proper push-pull (no spring return). Was it worth the effort? Yep, it saves quite a bit of weight and looks nicer, plus the linkage is free from the inevitable stiffness of the supplied tube/wire. But it wasn't easy.

More details and pics in blog post:
http://rc-soar.blogspot.co.uk/2012/0...lg-tested.html

Mike

My stock push rods seem to be working well (re above post). However I have found that cleaning the pushrod wires with acetone or degreaser then coating them with graphite powder first before inserting them for the final fit is very beneficial. Generally they have about half the resistance of uncleaned unlubed rods. That has applied to all my models with nylon or plastic pushrod tubes over the years...

I just added an image of my 3S battery setup for completeness in my small build image post from back in April. I used three 300mAh Hobbyking Nano-Tech cells that I also use on a micro Blade MCP X heli. Cells that are past flying the heli still support a not so hungry glider servo system no problem. I have two cells packed either side of the tail servos, and only one in the nose to get the right CoG.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=2598

Any suggestions on repairing the rear wing mount blind nut?

It popped loose with slight damage to the fiberglass, but still have most of the nylon bolt screwed into the nut and the nut is still mostly in the right place....

Originally Posted by ZeroPitch

Any suggestions on repairing the rear wing mount blind nut?

It popped loose with slight damage to the fiberglass, but still have most of the nylon bolt screwed into the nut and the nut is still mostly in the right place....

If I read you right the nylon screw is sheared off and the thread still in the fus nut ?

If so I'd first try heating up an old jewellers screw driver tip with a flame and melting it into the sheared thread, undo when cool.
Second resort is drill it out with an under size drill bit and clean the remaining nylon out of the thread with a correct size tap.

Hard to give more advice with no photo to look at, but a loose nut may be re-locked in with thin or medium CA, as CA has a real affinity to be soaked into frayed fibreglass. If you get CA inside the thread use the same tapping idea above...

I've also used expoy in the past, by warming it with a heat gun very sparingly to make it runny enough to soak into the glass and fine gaps. It will go off fast that way too so beware.

Not sure if you guys heard, but Hobby King now carries the TopSky 1.0 renamed "Versus".

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...lider_Kit.html

Nice deal.

Nice!
So is this still made by TS? Did HK license it? Or is it a blatant rip off?

Originally Posted by Pickle72

Nice!
So is this still made by TS? Did HK license it? Or is it a blatant rip off?

Good question. I'd hope they would have licensed it or worked with TS to ramp up their operation by doing volume buys hence benefiting everyone, but who knows. Good question to ask Anthony Hand (HK CEO).

Originally Posted by PLMS

If I read you right the nylon screw is sheared off and the thread still in the fus nut ?

If so I'd first try heating up an old jewellers screw driver tip with a flame and melting it into the sheared thread, undo when cool.
Second resort is drill it out with an under size drill bit and clean the remaining nylon out of the thread with a correct size tap.

Hard to give more advice with no photo to look at, but a loose nut may be re-locked in with thin or medium CA, as CA has a real affinity to be soaked into frayed fibreglass. If you get CA inside the thread use the same tapping idea above...

I've also used expoy in the past, by warming it with a heat gun very sparingly to make it runny enough to soak into the glass and fine gaps. It will go off fast that way too so beware.

The nylon bolt head got chewed off but still had the screw indents. Just the wood came loose, so on a whim I pushed some seriously wet Gorilla glue in the hole, slid the plywood back over the hole and screwed the bolt shaft back on after coating with Vaseline. Should have waited till I had a bolt with a head to get some pressure on the glue... feel stupid now cause the PU glue is gonna foam some more :-(. Hope it works out.

What size is that rear nylon wing bolt? Can't find the spare for the life of me...

Www.alofthobbies.com has those nylon bolts four millimeters

Originally Posted by JimNM

Www.alofthobbies.com has those nylon bolts four millimeters

Thanks Jim (and Wayne of Aloft!) Ran over and picked up a few... Left over glue was still slightly spongy and the screw compressed some, so think I saved it .

Finished mine after reading ten times this thread (all of it, phew!)
NICE
Mods I am planning:
- Pushrods, definitely will change them fore "something better" no matter what, they will crinkle and twitch somewhere if there is some backforce from the tail surfaces ...
- Dihedral: 6.3 degrees, feels a bit, juuust a bit touchy, might be be, but a little more dihedral might be ok (?)
- Pilot: Needs to update his launching firmware, in the learning curve so far ...

This glider can be addictive !

Originally Posted by nicoyenny

This glider can be addictive !

There is no know cure for the addiction. You will be throwing for the rest of your life

David J is correct. It is truly a sickness. To fully make clear the nature of the condition, you will be "throwing up" until you die!

Dave in CT

... on the PLUS side, my wife cannot argue anymore that flying means no exercise, man I was sweating like a flying pig yesterday throwing and throwing ... and walking to get the glider when I landed on uncharted (> 15 ft from me) land ....