Hi Guys,
I'm finally back here on the Groups after a 6 month absence. My vision kept getting worse. I thought I needed new glasses. What I really needed was catarack surgery. Now that I have new lenses in my eyes, I can see like a Red Tail Hawk. Well, almost...........
I decided to kick off the building season here in Seattle with a Poly Pulsar 2E REF Normal Tail bird. I have wanted a Poly Pulsar for a long time. I was just waiting for them to come out with the Normal Tail version. I mean, I am the West coast president of the "No V Tails" group. I didn't want to try sawing off another V tail and making a normal tail out of it. Been there, done that.
I ordered the plane about a year and a half ago. My how time flys. Now it's time to start putting it together.
For opening comments, I would like to say the fit and finish of this plane is exactly what you would expect from a plane in this price range. It's extreamly well made and impressive workmanship. See photo.
I decided to go with a Hyperion GS2213-16 motor. It has the tappered nose on it. It fits the fuse very nicely.

Hi Bob.

Thanks so much for doing this. I am sitting waiting to order mine as I know the Radian is only going to work for me for so long. Seeing yours go together will be a big help and incentive.

There is another guy I have been in contact with who is about to put one together who may join you in this.

John

Hi John,

I'm glad somebody is watching........... smile. Everyone builds a little bit different. In the end, the planes all fly. You may have a better or different idea. That's what this forum is all about, sharing ideas. I've only been into this hobby for going on 10 yrs now. It's a lot of fun. Welcome aboard and here we go.

Bob in Seattle

Good morning Guys. I'm just having some of my favorite New Zealand coffee, C4 Krank. It's smooth as silk.
I like to start out my builds by putting the motor in the nose. So, here we go. I'm useing an out runner motor, not a geared motor. See photo. It's a little bigger and doesn't fit into the fuse. I will have to make an access hatch to get it in. I had to do this on my AVA noses as well. It makes you wonder why they don't put these hatches on at the factory ???
The hatch is not to hard to do. Just cover the top of the nose with blue tape. Carefully lay out the size and shape of the hatch on the tape. Then you just take an X-acto knife with a long point blade, and just starting going around the line. Just poke it through the fuse, and move it down and so on. This takes about an hour or so. Then lightly sand the edges. See photo. NOW the motor fits in the fuse.

Hi Guys,
The next item is to drill the holes for the motor. I made a paper template, and marked them on the mounting plate. See photo. I started out with a very small drill bit, and drilled them by hand. I then worked my way up to a size 30 drill bit. As usual, 2 of the 4 holes didn't quite line up. I had to file them a little. I finally got all 4 screws in the motor. See photo.
The motor was slightly off center. This was OK because I needed room for the wires of the motor to come back aft. See photos.
So, the motor is in and the hard part is over. I'm now going to cut the battery access hatch open. Stay tuned.

Bob in Seattle

Hi Guys,

I'm going to have to use one of those long skinny 2200 Mah batteries. The regular ones are to fat.
Cutting this access hatch is just like the nose hatch, but you can use a fine hand saw on it. I'll put on the blue tape, and mark it. Now where did I put that saw ??? Stay tuned

Bob in Seattle

Hi Guys,
OK, so that worked out very nicely. The battery actually fits either way, flat or on edge. See photos. Now I'm going to have to get into the speed control and receiver issues. This is more of a logistics problem. You have to keep these two things a far appart as possible, I'm still useing FM equipment. This also involves soldering. My soldering skills are awful.
I'm going to have to do a preliminary wt. and bal, to see where the battery is going to sit. Stay tuned.

Bob in Seattle

Looking good Bob!
Great hearing about your new project... I like the hatch cutting idea.

Hi Kenny,
I like it too, since it's the only way to get the stuff in the plane !!!!!
Bob in Seattle

Hi Guys,
I put the plane together for the battery location, wt.& bal check. The CG is between 55-80 MM aft of the LE. I got the plane to ballence at 60 MM, with the battery flush with the end of the hatch opening, See photo. I had the 2 tail servos sitting on the stab. The speed control and the prop blades stuffed into the hatch opening. The reciever wasn't in there. I have over an inch of room to move the battery forward and aft. Here are the ballence shots.
Foxy has helped me build every plane I have ever had. She knows her stuff.
Now, I have to start crimping wires and soldering stuff. I ordered one of those soldering aids that hold your work for you. It should be here this week. Stay tuned.

Bob in Seattle

Hi Bob-
looking pretty good - nice dog, football on tv, an 'art-magazine' just under the travel mag and a new airplane project = life is good today

How do you keep the three wires away from the spinning motor canister ?

I see the offset for the motor hub 3 wire 'bend' but loose wires back from the fire wall worry me. I resolve this by using smaller diameter motors (lower power too ) so there is more space between the canister and fuse side.

thanks for the build thread, john s.

Hi John,
Yes, life is good at my house here in Seattle. There are many benifits to being single at this age. But, that's a story for another day.
To answer your question. Hyperion motors have a very tuff strong shrink coating on the wires coming out of the motor. It is about 1 inch long. They come straight out the side. If you try and bend them over, there is a LOT of resistance. So........... if the motor is slightly off to one side as mine was, that leaves a gap of about 3/16" , maybe slightly less. When you force the motor in the nose, and bolt it down, the wires are forces to bend over to the side. But, the resistance to that, keeps them hard against the side wall of the nose. The protective coating is long enough to go past the turning drum. To check it, you take a thin piece of wood and push it between the wire and the motor. If you have clearence, your good to go. You only need 1/16" gap. I'll glue the non protected wires against the side wall of the nose for about another inch or so. Use a strong flashlight, look down in there and trun the motor around. If it clears, your good. Hope this helps.

Bob in Seattle

Originally Posted by Bob Cook

Good morning Guys. I'm just having some of my favorite New Zealand coffee, C4 Krank. It's smooth as silk.
I like to start out my builds by putting the motor in the nose. So, here we go. I'm useing an out runner motor, not a geared motor. See photo. It's a little bigger and doesn't fit into the fuse. I will have to make an access hatch to get it in. I had to do this on my AVA noses as well. It makes you wonder why they don't put these hatches on at the factory ???
The hatch is not to hard to do. Just cover the top of the nose with blue tape. Carefully lay out the size and shape of the hatch on the tape. Then you just take an X-acto knife with a long point blade, and just starting going around the line. Just poke it through the fuse, and move it down and so on. This takes about an hour or so. Then lightly sand the edges. See photo. NOW the motor fits in the fuse.

Wouldn't it have been possible to simply enlarge / elongate the existing hole and not cut an access panel? This is what I did on my Pulsar 3.2REF.

Hi Bob.
thank you, i just took a look at the motor and see how it is designed. Very nice explanation. Take care and i'm looking forward to a successful maident flight for you.
js

Also, looks like your using Anderson Powerpole 30 Amp connectors. The power setup your using may draw more than 30 amps. My $0.02