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Old Dec 05, 2014, 11:07 AM
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aerofundan's Avatar
Panama
Joined Jul 2005
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Definitely fiberglass it, takes a few extra minutes to do and will guarantee that you will have a motorbox that will outlast the airframe!

The T45 problem is it will be hard to get the CG right,. I know i felt my T40 amr with 14x7 the power was almost as much as the xr52 with 4s If you can stay with the T40 i would say thats the way to go!
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Old Dec 05, 2014, 11:26 AM
The flying snake
Grandpa strap's Avatar
United States, CO, Thornton
Joined Sep 2013
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My amr shipped!! Yay!
Aero, should I pull my motors out of my addy x and bandit and glass those motor boxes as well?
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Old Dec 05, 2014, 12:19 PM
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Panama
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grandpa strap View Post
My amr shipped!! Yay!
Aero, should I pull my motors out of my addy x and bandit and glass those motor boxes as well?
I think you are probably fine on those. Those motorboxes are newer generation and a bit stronger. But if you have some extra time, it can't hurt to do the mod.
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Old Dec 05, 2014, 12:57 PM
Chef Pilot: Planes vs Butter
ChinoDiablo's Avatar
United States, VA, Hamilton
Joined Jul 2012
3,510 Posts
While I love my Ultimate, I wish the motor box would have been built more robustly.
Quite frankly, for the money paid, it should be delivered reinforced at the factory instead of by the user.
I know, I know... it's built for the spec'd motor and then there's the weight penalty that Shaun is concerned with but after reviewing almost all of the PA threads here on RCG, the occasional motor box failure is an ongoing theme.

For my upcoming PA builds, another Katana Mini and a Katana MX, I'll be glassing the motor boxes immediately so when it's time to mount it, it'll be good and ready.
I don't want to be part of the ongoing theme.
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Old Dec 05, 2014, 06:05 PM
The flying snake
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United States, CO, Thornton
Joined Sep 2013
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I think I will do the classing on my other pa planes. It's quick and easy
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Old Dec 05, 2014, 06:13 PM
Chef Pilot: Planes vs Butter
ChinoDiablo's Avatar
United States, VA, Hamilton
Joined Jul 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grandpa strap View Post
I think I will do the classing on my other pa planes. It's quick and easy
a half ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
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Old Dec 05, 2014, 06:15 PM
Well they Started off cheap!
Cheap aeros's Avatar
Australia, TAS, Hobart
Joined Feb 2012
63 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by aerofundan View Post
Definitely fiberglass it, takes a few extra minutes to do and will guarantee that you will have a motorbox that will outlast the airframe!

The T45 problem is it will be hard to get the CG right,. I know i felt my T40 amr with 14x7 the power was almost as much as the xr52 with 4s If you can stay with the T40 i would say thats the way to go!
Thanks, ordered the drive setup with it so will be using this. Guess I will see first hand the difference when my XR52 arrives

And will definitely glass the motor box. Repaired/beefed up plenty of firewalls so glassing one out of the airframe should be pretty easy.
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Old Dec 12, 2014, 12:24 PM
The flying snake
Grandpa strap's Avatar
United States, CO, Thornton
Joined Sep 2013
1,014 Posts
Hey amr pilots!
I have started my build of my amr. I read through the manual and it goes together mostly like my other pa planes. With one exception. The control rods. Not too sure how I feel about the 2 piece rods. Couldn't I just get carbon rods and some slip on clevises and make them one piece instead of the a bends and two piece rods? Why have the 2 piece rods? Also the setup for the aileron rods from top to bottom wing has me a bit intimidated. Any things to look out for? This is my first bipe build. And first real bipe. I have flown the umx Pitts micro and liked it a lot. So any tips would be greatly appreciated
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Old Dec 12, 2014, 02:17 PM
Chef Pilot: Planes vs Butter
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United States, VA, Hamilton
Joined Jul 2012
3,510 Posts
The CF control rods seem particular to PA but work reasonably well.
I haven't had one slip nor had to make any adjustments since I first installed them.
However, I probably would have been happier with EZ connectors and ball links with a weight penalty of perhaps 5 grams.
If you choose to go the suggested set up, just tape your control surface neutral and build the control rods on the plane.
You should have already opened up the hole with the Z bend wire so that it fits perfectly. They should fit pretty snug (no slop)
I like to assemble one lashed end of the CF off the plane but the other end must be assembled on the plane.

Here's what you need for each section:
  • 2 sections of shrink wrap, ~3mm long.
  • 1 section of shrink wrap, 1 inch long.
  • 4 inches of thread (supplied with kit)
  • CA
Here's what you do:
  • Secure all moving surface to neutral using masking or electricl tape.
  • Roughen up the ends of the CF rods with sandpaper. Very Important.
  • First slide the 1inch shrink tube onto the CF rod, then the 2 little one. make sure they slide off.
  • Line up the CF with the Z bend.
  • Slide on 1 small tube with the end of the string inside over both the Z bend and the CF right near the hinge line.
  • Hit it with heat. (I used a hot soldering iron tip).
  • Then slide on the 2nd small tube about 1 inch from the first one.
  • Hit it with heat. Now the Z Bend and CF are straight.
  • Put a dot of CA on the string where it meets the 1st tube.
  • Now the string is secure.
  • Snuggly wrap/lash the string around that 1 inch section and pull taught.
  • Hit with CA over the entire length of lashing.
  • Slide the 1inch tube of shrink wrap over the lash and hit with heat.
  • Done.
That's one end.
Now you've got to do the other end, which must be done on the plane.
When doing the other end, you must remember to slide the shrink tube thing on first before assembling.
It seems like a lot work (and it is) but it really takes only about 3 minutes per lashing.
If you have big fumbly hands then going the EZ connector route would definitely be less headache.
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Old Dec 13, 2014, 01:15 AM
Well they Started off cheap!
Cheap aeros's Avatar
Australia, TAS, Hobart
Joined Feb 2012
63 Posts
I actually like the CF rod and Z bend rods. used them on my Hokusei and Skywing planes instead of EZ connectors. Perfect for this size model

I have made CF rods with Dubro ball links on each end, but for much larger planes. Also time consuming and fiddly to get right. not really required here.

Been assembling my AMR slowly. Glassed the inside of the Motor Box as recommended and also added some CF strip to the outside. Not sure if it will add any torsional rigidity or extra strength, but since I had it "in stock" thought it can't hurt
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Old Dec 16, 2014, 11:42 AM
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kohersh's Avatar
United States, FL, West Palm Beach
Joined Apr 2011
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China Diablo perfectly wrote it up! I illustrated it in episode 2 of PA builds, available on the PA website.
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Old Dec 16, 2014, 12:51 PM
Chef Pilot: Planes vs Butter
ChinoDiablo's Avatar
United States, VA, Hamilton
Joined Jul 2012
3,510 Posts
Flew my AMR multiple times yesterday and absolutely love the power of 4s.
Just awesome.
Tumbles like a demon, hovers easier than all the others.
and then she lands like a feather.
A great plane!
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Old Dec 16, 2014, 01:24 PM
The flying snake
Grandpa strap's Avatar
United States, CO, Thornton
Joined Sep 2013
1,014 Posts
With the busy holidays I am at a stand still with mine. I have the motorbox mounted and glassed and the landing gear on. And it just sits beckoning me to work on it
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