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Old Dec 03, 2012, 04:49 PM
I like real wooden aeroplanes!
Sundancer's Avatar
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It's going to be another pretty one Colonel!
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Old Dec 03, 2012, 04:57 PM
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Australia, WA, Perth
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Very nice colonel! Hope young Blinkette enjoys her poisoned elocution lessons!
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Old Dec 07, 2012, 01:10 AM
So I'M meant to be in control?
Colonel Blink's Avatar
Ilkley, West Yorkshire, UK
Joined Nov 2008
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Thanks, folks! I daresay I will need to think of another colour scheme for the next one...

Got up to the tiny table that I have managed to retain claim upon and laughingly refer to as my workbench for an hour and a half last night. The ladies of the house were at a social function involving some impersonators of a Swedish musical combo. Why anyone would want to impersonate Swedes is beyond me (after all, they are only really good for growing Christmas trees and making salacious entertainment), but the gels of the house seem to have enjoyed the experience.

Physical progress was minimal, as some of the time was spent looking for some grub screws I had bought - which turned out to be of the incorrect size. However, I managed to come to some important decisions as to hardware placement. I really do not want to make the mistake that I did with the Ajax - balanced 'slightly nose heavy' before covering and finishing wasn't enough, and it still has 13g of lead under the nose!

The Gypsy will have the ESC on one side of the first bay in the nose, the Lipo on another 'Blink-adjust' tongue depressor equipped hatch on the underside of the nose (two bays), the 2.4GHz (count 'em!) Orange Rx on a hatch on the underside in the bay behind the u/c, and the elevator servo a couple of bays forward of the empennage. Rudder servo is buried in the fin. Taping components to the fuz frame and strapping wings & tail on indicated this was nose heavy, but not ridiculously so. I'm working on the principle that if it ends up slightly nose heavy when complete, you need to add a lot less weight to the tail to balance than you do to the nose....

The positioning I've chosen also meant that various wires reached the required components without the need for any more extensions other than the two 40cm ones for the servos, which was a relief. With a fuz as long as the Gypsy's, there's more than enough wire in it already!!! Having made those decisions, I started on the hatches which are now WIP. So, full speed ahead, Number One!

As Winston Churchill quotes seem to be popular around these parts, I will finish with my favourite - his retort to Lady Astor when she haughtily expressed disgust at his being somewhat inebriated:

"Madam, I may be drunk....but you are ugly. And in the morning, I shall be sober..."
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Old Dec 08, 2012, 08:15 AM
Sic itur ad Astra
sparks59's Avatar
United Arab Emirates, Abu Dhabi, Abu Dhabi
Joined Aug 2009
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Apologies Blink, been away from t'internet for a few weeks. Catching up on mt fave threads now.
Tailgroup looks good.
sparks
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Old Dec 08, 2012, 03:19 PM
So I'M meant to be in control?
Colonel Blink's Avatar
Ilkley, West Yorkshire, UK
Joined Nov 2008
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Thought you'd been a bit quiet recently, sparks - I just assumed there had been a sandstorm or summat......!!

Thanks - still hoping to finish before the end of the year.
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Old Dec 08, 2012, 06:42 PM
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Sky Jiver's Avatar
United Kingdom, England, Gt Man
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More pictures Please Colonel

Hi Colonel,
More pictures please, and know how on cutting those lovely letters. SJ
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Old Dec 09, 2012, 05:05 PM
So I'M meant to be in control?
Colonel Blink's Avatar
Ilkley, West Yorkshire, UK
Joined Nov 2008
3,745 Posts
Well, Mr Jiver sir, I will indeed take some more pictures once I have finished the installation of the hardware. I am trying to make it a little neater than on the Ajax, where the electric spaghetti could be seen through the translucent covering...

The lettering is actually quite easy... the way I do it as follows:
- Pick your font from the millions available with your word processing package of choice and others which are free online.
- Print the required words out at the size required. Do this at work so that you don't pay for paper or ink
- Tape some black tissue to your cutting mat. Tape the required word over the top.
- Take your sharpest blade and cut round the letters. Cut firmly, and aim to cut each part once. If you think carefully, you can make sure the partially cut tissue letter doesn't shift; eg cut out the inside of a D before the outside.
- Put the letters in an envelope as you cut them. Don't sneeze.
- Varnish or dope them onto the finished covering. A strip of low tack masking tape can be used as a baseline to ensure the word doesnt slope. Try to use the letters in the correct order, unless you are building something which is an anagram of a rude word in which case it's worth doing it wrong for the humour value.....

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Old Dec 13, 2012, 08:24 AM
So I'M meant to be in control?
Colonel Blink's Avatar
Ilkley, West Yorkshire, UK
Joined Nov 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sky Jiver View Post
Hi Colonel, More pictures please....
Well, here are some more....

Progress has been a little swifter since I tidied the benchlette.

Having (rightly or wrongly) come to some decisions about hardware positioning, the last couple of interludes have been to make it so, Number One. The two bay nose hatch, the lid (underside?) of which holds the Lipo also has the ESC hot glued on one side, and the ESC to motor wires tucked up into the stringered section. The lid is held shut by a neodynium magnet - I also cut two finger holes in the hatch to aid opening it - and then realised I'd cut them in the wrong end so now they are cooling air exit holes and after covering, I will epoxy a bead headed pin in for the sausage fingers to grab a hold of.

Mounted the elevator servo in the fuz side, and made up a carbon fibre/wire pushrod. Probably didn't save much weight over an all wire one, but proved the technique to myself and also satisfied myself that CA does stick carbon fibre to metal. Rectified my deliberate error with the rudder linkage. I also ensured that I had a 'KK Gyspy' named memory on my as-yet-unused-in-anger DX6i and enjoyed a bit of stick waggling. I then reconnected the motor so it spins in the correct direction

Thought: Do you chaps tend to use the ratchet on the throttle, or do you prefer smooth movement? I have always had Txs with the ratchet, but the Spektrum comes without it fitted (its in a bag) and I do not know whether to try it without...

Nailed it all together temporarily to check balance - it's nose heavy, but not quite as much as I'd expected. However, there is now simply no more weight to add at the rear (other than covering), and I still have the nose block, prop & glazing to add at the front. Couple with the fact that I think I may be covering a little lighter now than I did with the Ajax, I'm reasonably happy that it won't need much additional nose weight - and if it does I'll change the Blink-Adjust Lipo holder to a Sundancer Special so the lipo will be vertical!
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Old Dec 13, 2012, 10:08 AM
Sic itur ad Astra
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United Arab Emirates, Abu Dhabi, Abu Dhabi
Joined Aug 2009
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Good progress Colonel. I would have thought you might have got away with turning the rudder horn around, popping the link the other way and using the same holes in the rudder. Anyway, seen the other photo now, so its all good.
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Old Dec 16, 2012, 12:47 PM
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Sky Jiver's Avatar
United Kingdom, England, Gt Man
Joined Jul 2012
279 Posts
Tissue Letters

Hi Blink,
Thanks for the tissue letter cutting lesson, OK if your hands can cope might give it a try, getting the letters to keep still while you dope em on might be another trick. My solution on the Frankenstien was er "different" KBO.
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Old Dec 23, 2012, 04:10 PM
So I'M meant to be in control?
Colonel Blink's Avatar
Ilkley, West Yorkshire, UK
Joined Nov 2008
3,745 Posts
Well, as far as lettering goes, I don't mind cutting out the larger ones, but only for short names.... I was going to add the designer's name to the Ajax, but with 13 letters, it was too many for my ohsoshort patience and they would need to be too small for my sausage fingers....

Latest Gypsy update is that the fuselage is now completely mylar covered, which has stiffened it up a treat - I had been getting concerned that my reduction from the standard 1/8" sq to 3/32" may have been a mistake as it was a bit wibblywobbly with no covering. I also realised what a pain in the proverbial having the u/c attached was - not just for getting the mylar around, but also because it made it difficult to lay the fuselage down on its side or back to work on. I am a convert to plug in u/cs!!!

I have added the tissue to the stringered nose top decking. The tissue part of the covering is one of those tasks that I enjoy whilst at the same time hating. I enjoy it in that it is when the model transforms into a solid body, yet I hate it in that it always seems to be on hovering on the brink of disaster. Even using a new razor blade when cutting wet/damp tissue, I struggle to get anything better a slightly ragged edge. I would be fascinated to know how Sundancer managed to do his excellent perfectly-straight-lined multicoloured schemes like on the Mamba!

Although the Gypsy isnt a Britkit entry (the wings were built 20 odd years ago, the fuselage a couple of years later - only the fin & tailplane are from 2012), I have been trying to complete it before the 31st December deadline so that I can clear the decks for whatever I choose to build next time. Unfortunately, as my building opportunities have lessened recently due to a myriad of reasons, this 'quick fill-in restoration' has taken far longer than expected.......
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Old Dec 24, 2012, 03:59 AM
I like real wooden aeroplanes!
Sundancer's Avatar
South-west France
Joined Sep 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Colonel Blink View Post
I also realised what a pain in the proverbial having the u/c attached was - not just for getting the mylar around, but also because it made it difficult to lay the fuselage down on its side or back to work on. I am a convert to plug in u/cs!!!

II would be fascinated to know how Sundancer managed to do his excellent perfectly-straight-lined multicoloured schemes like on the Mamba!

.
Couldn't agree more about the undercarriage Colonel, everything with an undercarriage that I build now has to be either plug-in or bolt-on, anything else is a complete pain during the finishing stages.

No magic in the way I do finishes like the Mamba, you will notice that the the colour panels are inset from the edges, they are overlaid on an overall covering of the base tissue, usually white. I first of all make a full size cardboard template of the wing or tailplane half, then work out the colour scheme on this before cutting it up into individual panel templates. These are then used to cut out the coloured tissue panels, taping them down on a cutting mat over a double thickness of tissue (one for each wing or tail half, so it is fan-folded to produce "handed" panels so that the shiney side is uppermost on both panels) and cutting with a 10A scalpal blade - I use a LOT of blades, they don't last long for the tissue cutting task but are then passed "down the line" for other tasks (I have half a dozen scalpal handles which are coded with turns of coloured PVC tape so I know the "age" of the blades in them - new for tissue and mylare work down to oldest for hacking out ply and sharpening pencils!). The coloured panels are positioned dry over the doped base finish and then lightly sprayed with water before fixing in place with thinners, followed by overall doping when dry. Lining is done with a ruling pen usinf a flexible ruler for the straight lines and the original card templates for others.

No special way of trimming the wet tissue when covering either - just lots of new blades and patience.

I first started using this technique when I started using mylar/tissue 20 plus years ago - all I can say is practice makes it a lot easier!! Most of the Sunfly designs prototypes were finished like this - a few examples below.
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Old Dec 24, 2012, 07:30 PM
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Australia, WA, Perth
Joined Nov 2010
619 Posts
Slightly off topic George, (well, it was my thread to begin with!) are plans still available for any of those models? A Square dancer would be a cool Sunday "hack" and I really like the look of the Diet Sundancer 63. All the best for Xmas everybody, I'm on holidays now so the Tipsy should fly within a week! Gary
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Old Dec 25, 2012, 06:51 AM
I like real wooden aeroplanes!
Sundancer's Avatar
South-west France
Joined Sep 2007
5,003 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by kkphantom View Post
Slightly off topic George, (well, it was my thread to begin with!) are plans still available for any of those models? A Square dancer would be a cool Sunday "hack" and I really like the look of the Diet Sundancer 63. All the best for Xmas everybody, I'm on holidays now so the Tipsy should fly within a week! Gary
Hi Gary

I've still got all the Sunfly Models dye-line masters, these were hand drawn on tracing film and I used to get paper copies run off for customers at the local architects back in the UK; however, since moving to France in 2006, I can find nowhere that still does dyeline copying, and ALL the electrostatic type copiers I have ever tried introduce unacceptable distortions so that the bits don't fit properly - very annoying and not acceptable as I spent many hours when drawing the originals and building the prototypes to make sure everything DID fit.

The original models (there were 12 - 4 E400 soarers, Sundancer 60, Sundancer 72, Diet Sundancer and Clubman, 2 aerobatic models Square Dancer and Stinger E, two sport models Park Ranger and Phury, 3 gliders Sundancer 60 HLG-V, Metre Maid 2 metre and Mucha Standard "profile" scale plus the scale twin DH Hornet F1/NF21) were designed for direct drive or geared brushed motors, mostly Speed 400's (well, the electric ones were). If I live long enough I plan to adapt some for brushless/lipo, and have in fact already done that with the Square Dancer, I have two new ones with 120 watt brushless/2S lipo installations. The Park Ranger is next as it is scheduled for publication as a full size plan in either Q&EFI or RCMW, and the Stinger and Phury are small enough to publish in the full size plan format, so will follow, along with the brushless Square Dancer.

If I could find some way of getting copies I would happily send you the Square Dancer and Diet Sundancer plans, I MAY have a contact who could scan them into PDF format and if this happens I will certainly send them to you.

Compliments of the season, I'm going to have my Christmas dinner now!

PS: looking forward to seeing the finished Tipsy!
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Old Dec 25, 2012, 07:18 AM
So I'M meant to be in control?
Colonel Blink's Avatar
Ilkley, West Yorkshire, UK
Joined Nov 2008
3,745 Posts
Merry Christmas to everyone here! And I don't think anyone will be insulted when I wish you a specially Happy Christmas and a healthy and enjoyable 2013, George. I thank you for the encouragement, advice and help you have given me in 2012. I am thoroughly enjoying my return to balsa building, and already my build list is far too long......



PS Luckily, in the UK it has just hit beer o'clock......
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