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Old Dec 06, 2012, 03:38 PM
Mustang Fever
Joined Jan 2005
371 Posts
Made a paper tracing of the exhaust nozzle pattern on the plans, so I could cut and paste and get it right.

It needed to be a little longer and to have more width at the front in order to fit my fan. Still isn't quite there, gotta do one more "edit" to get it perfecto.

Dan: what about using a big automotive type hose clamp for holding the nozzle to the fan? I'd like to glue the overlap on the PTEG as well, but don't have any idea what kind of glue to use.

I plan to run the motor wires straight out the exhaust, then have them do a 180 through the bottom of the fiberglass so as to run forward to the ESC, which will be about on the CG, on the bottom (under the battery tray) with the fins sticking out into the slipstream. That way, the wires between the ESC and pack will be really short.
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Old Dec 06, 2012, 05:51 PM
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DanSavage's Avatar
Trabuco Canyon, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Hunt View Post
Dan: what about using a big automotive type hose clamp for holding the nozzle to the fan? I'd like to glue the overlap on the PTEG as well, but don't have any idea what kind of glue to use.
You could, but it seems a like a little overkill. Even at 2000W, automotive electrical tape seems to work fine and it's a lot lighter.

I've used both epoxy and CA on the PETG glue joint. I always scuffed the mating surfaces well so the glue gets some bite.
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Old Dec 06, 2012, 09:19 PM
Mustang Fever
Joined Jan 2005
371 Posts
Thanks, Dan.

The idea behind the hose clamp is to make it easier to get the fan out down the road, if it needs to be replaced or whatever. Getting tape out from the behind the blind side of the fan would be tough, and replacing it afterwards even tougher. I'm thinking, loosen the clamp, slide the exhaust tube to the rear an inch, and pull the fan.

Don't know why I went to all the hassle of making a template for the exhaust. I just now rolled the PETG up and slid it in there. All I gotta do is clamp it down, make some marks on it with a sharpie and proceed. Must have my head in rectal defilade, again.
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Old Dec 07, 2012, 10:20 AM
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United States, VA, Suffolk
Joined Nov 2007
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Use an extra long zip tie to hold the tube on. Most of them you can even loosen them up without removing if you use an xacto knife blade to lift up the little tab that does the locking on the ridges of the tie.
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Old Dec 07, 2012, 10:29 AM
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Trabuco Canyon, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Hunt View Post
Thanks, Dan.

The idea behind the hose clamp is to make it easier to get the fan out down the road, if it needs to be replaced or whatever. Getting tape out from the behind the blind side of the fan would be tough, and replacing it afterwards even tougher.
I usually only tape the half I can see. As long as the tailpipe has a tight fit around the fan, you shouldn't see too much leakage or distortion due to tailpipe pressure. Daren is running his system at 2000W and it's working fine.
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Old Dec 07, 2012, 11:05 PM
Mustang Fever
Joined Jan 2005
371 Posts
After reading that it's easy to be quite a bit nose heavy with this bird, I think I'll stick with the hose clamp. Being that far behind the CG, it should help a little. Also, it's way more elegant than tape or zip ties.

I did all the reinforcing called for in the tail cone area, and sheeted the bottom between B9 and B10. Should be able to install the mounts for the fiberglass nozzle assembly, and complete the PTEG cone construction. Then, I want to clamp the glass nozzle in place and do a full power run up to insure that my inlets don't collapse and I have no air leaks.
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Old Dec 09, 2012, 06:18 PM
Mustang Fever
Joined Jan 2005
371 Posts
Here's the completed propulsion system installation.

Used some aluminum standoffs between B9 and the glass tail cone so it can be held on (with PETG nozzle attached) by a couple of 10-32 screws.

Not real happy with running the motor wires out the back, but don't know what else could be done to make the fan serviceable. I could run them through a hole in the PETG (and maybe use that nice pylon that came with the fan) but that means sealing the hole with silicone or something and making the whole setup permanent. As it is, I can go through the fan hatch, loosen the hose clamp, remove the tail cone screws, slide the nozzle/tail cone to the rear and get to the connections on the motor. Voila.

Put a couple pieces of that 1/4" lite ply crossways on the bottom of the battery tray as ESC mounts. It will stick out maybe 1/8" of an inch into the slipstream.

Full power test today was a non event. She pulled about 64 amps and really displayed some push. No leaks or defects that I could find, and the RC Lander fan is very well balanced- no detectable vibration. Sucker is loud, tho, first time an RC propulsion system made my ears ring.

I set my Castle ICE esc to inrunner, high timing, and highest PWM (24 I think).
I can't find any info on the motor other than Kv, which is 1900. Runs OK with all that, though, so it must not be too far off.
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Old Dec 09, 2012, 06:22 PM
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United States, KY, Crestview Hills
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Bob cut a slot in the thrust tube and run the wires forward right behind the shroud.
I use either kapton tape or hvac tape to hold the thrust to the shroud.
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Old Dec 09, 2012, 06:56 PM
efflux RC's Avatar
United States, CA, Santa Clarita
Joined Aug 2009
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Bob,
Here are some examples of Bob B's suggestion.
You can form the wires where they exit the thrust tube, and cover them with heat shrink to form a nice fairing. This will keep them too a "one wire" profile in the thrust tube area, reducing the turbulance, drag, as well keeping the wires as short as possible, and saving some weight.
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Last edited by efflux RC; Dec 09, 2012 at 07:02 PM.
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Old Dec 09, 2012, 10:09 PM
Mustang Fever
Joined Jan 2005
371 Posts
Efflux:

Your pictures made me realized what I needed to do: re-install the little fairing that came on the DF. By playing around with the O'clock position of the fairing, you can see that I got it close to flush with the inside of the PTEG nozzle. The slot in the PTEG is longer than it needs to be so I can fish the motor wires through the hole while installing the nozzle from the rear. Without the demountable tail cone, I would have really been painted into a corner by now.

Thanks again.
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Old Dec 09, 2012, 11:06 PM
efflux RC's Avatar
United States, CA, Santa Clarita
Joined Aug 2009
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Sorry I haven't been following along, but I just popped in when I saw the comment about the long wires.
I believe those closed motor fairings retain more heat than they dissipate.
Not to make more work for you, but on a similar motor fairing (Skyworld) to yours, we asked Skyworld to add a 1/2" hole to the aft end for "flow thru".
The one in in the pics below was modified by me.

Be sure to the heat shrink tubing extends past where the motor wires extend past the metal motor wire fairing. I've seen the soft silicone insulation severed by the sharp edge and short the motor.
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Old Dec 10, 2012, 07:54 AM
Mustang Fever
Joined Jan 2005
371 Posts
I put a double layer of heat shrink on the wires as I had the same concern.

Any idea how many poles the motor might have? Or what PWM setting is best for an application like this?
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Old Dec 10, 2012, 01:46 PM
efflux RC's Avatar
United States, CA, Santa Clarita
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Hunt View Post
I put a double layer of heat shrink on the wires as I had the same concern.

Any idea how many poles the motor might have? Or what PWM setting is best for an application like this?

It appears to be a "Fury Fan".
I recognized the housing and tail cone, as I replaced the motor a couple of years ago with an upgrade, after the wires chaffed against the motor fairing and shorted out.
I believe the early models had 2 pole motors. The one I just looked up states that it comes with a "new" 4 pole motor.
I'd suggest that you consult with your dealer for the motor specs on your specific model.
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Old Dec 10, 2012, 02:53 PM
Mustang Fever
Joined Jan 2005
371 Posts
It claims to be an RC Lander. Is that the same as a Fury? Anyway, I was trying to determine the RPM off the data log feature in the Castle, and by setting the number of poles to 2, it looks correct. Somewhere around 30K on the ground. I expect it will go up quite a bit with 100 mph ram air in the intake ducts.

If the RCL 90mm fan holds up well, I'll probably get one of their 120mm units when I get ready to do the Yellow F-4E.

This afternoon I mounted the Rx and some straps to hold the 6S 4000 pack in place, as she's going to the annual CAP Squadron awards banquet to show off her taxi skills. (The Cadets get to practice taxi with the Aerostar trainer, I get the Phabulous Phantom.)
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Old Dec 10, 2012, 03:53 PM
efflux RC's Avatar
United States, CA, Santa Clarita
Joined Aug 2009
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It appears they are the same EDF. Do they still have radial grooves on the Fan housing I.D.?

In an effort to remain neutral, I'm still suggesting that you refer to your original supplier for additional support.
I have no experiance with the Lander motors.
I will say that I would loose the heavy tailcone (the EDF is heavy as it is. and wire fairing. Put real heatsink on it (with big axial fins) and simply fair the wires in the thrust tube area with heat shrink tubing. (as in my photos above)

The steel band clamp is heavy and not necessary. Just tape the Thrust tube to the EDF using "Scotch" brand shiney cellophane tape.

BTW, you have lots of time invested in Dan's kit. It looks great!
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Last edited by efflux RC; Dec 10, 2012 at 04:00 PM. Reason: added text
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