Great review! Might have to get one!

Yeah!

I could be wrong but is a small alu tube tie-raped to a plate that only contacts the mounting bolts a effective cooling "system"?

Would moving that tube to the motor side of the mount and flattening it a bit to increase contact surface (and use cooling paste?) not be a better solution.

Not to mention replacing it with a copper tube and mounting plate and then soldering it to the plate.

anyway i could be wrong its just this looks cheap.

It is and it works!

The cooling system only needs to be effective enough to keep the motor from getting hot. While I ran the boat in October during some mid 80 degree days the water was a lot cooler than that. The motor was never at all hot to the touch. I won't be running in any type of "warm" water until next summer. Maybe someone with access to warm water can test it and report back to us. I have no concern about over heating from what I have experienced in my outings. The water in Oregon was definitely cool to the touch. Mike H

If anyone wants to upgrade this motor's cooling, it's not difficult.

I used:

K&S Brass sheet (can't remember the thickness, but thicker is better.)

K&S brass tube, about 1/8".

K&S tubing bender, corresponding size of course.

Soldering equipment (flux, solder, 140W Weller)

Thermal conductive paste, to improve heat transfer between the motor and the new cooler.







This is not in the same boat, but I'm sure you can do something similar to fit.

Good luck!

- Mike

What boat is it?

This was in a Robbe RAC 400 Eco that I overpowered this summer. I lost the motor due to an ESC failure, but it ran cool up until that point. Here's the build thread if you're interested, long winded but fun:

http://www.rumrunnerracing.com/fefor...ad.php?t=31554

FYI it's a great Eco class hull if you keep it around 500-600 watts.... above that, I haven't figured it out yet!

I read your posting nothernmike. I wonder if Artic ice from Radio Shack i use for the fets on esc before i lay aluminuum cooling down would also do the trick. BTW, i have a 5 v fan sucking air thru a 1520kv in one boat and with your inventiveness, should be a winter. Fan runs off the rx. Just woundering.

I doubt the fan will help much. The volume of air inside the boat will be a few liters at most, and the fan will only transfer the motor heat to this air. If you have openings for air from the outside to enter and exit, it will cool better - but then, water can get in, too.

Regarding "Artic Ice", if you meant Arctic Silver then yes - same kind of stuff. Radio Shack lists it for $6.99.



If you are really curious, you can use a temperature logging device, like from Eagle Tree or similar. I have inputs for battery and motor temperature on my Schulze ESC but have not hooked them up yet.

You can use an infrared thermometer to check the temperature after the run, but of course logging under load is the best possible metric.

The best way to keep your motor from overheating, though, is not to put too great a load on it - that means a reasonable propeller size and pitch.

If it is a low-resistance motor like these little outrunners, though, you will create some heat anyway.

I found my motor generated a lot of heat without the cooling, but this was with a 29mm diameter / 29mm pitch prop, and a little less with a 27mm diameter / 34mm pitch one.

However - that boat has a submerged prop! This "Mini Mono" is surface drive.

I was emptying 2200mAh 45C packs in about 4-5 minutes.

I would be interested to know how this boat runs on INrunner motors. I have found and heard as well that the torque from the bell of outrunners can cause stability issues - if and when the boat rolls sideways off a wave, the momentum of the bell tends to keep it rolling!

Go to page 2 and look up upgrading og mini arowana or prince and look for post # 9 by Pompbled with a line typed under a motor and read his post. Jan Pompbled is a GURU in boating world. I pick up alot of his info and he's dead on 99 3/4% of the time if info people give isn't vague. BTW, outrunner motors have worked out great with no torque roll what so ever. No need to reply, ok!

Guys I had a look at a Mini Mono in the box at my local hobby shop about an hour ago.

Nice product! For a first boat, this would be a hoot. For the size and weight of it, the cooling should probably be more than adequate. I didn't mean to suggest otherwise.

If one starts experimenting with props and begins overloading the motor, I stand behind my little brass assembly as a quick and effective way to add cooling to an outrunner.

As for outrunners and the physics of momentum, that's another topic - it may be that the effects are different with submerged drive boats too. But let's leave that be.

If this were my boat to hop up, I think I'd try a Mega 16/15/2 and an X430, and a 60A controller.

Mr. Heer, or others with experience running this boat - what kind of chop can it realistically handle in stock form?

It isn't self-righting, is it?

Finally I must say kudos to Aquacraft for bringing a piano wire drive to the masses in this hull. This is a huge step forward. It could use some bearings, but nonetheless, nice to see.

Have not yet had a chance to run it in chop. Maybe someone else can report that has. Mike H

What is "speed grease" ?