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Old Jul 21, 2007, 08:55 AM
Registered User
USA, KS, Wichita
Joined Sep 2002
1,109 Posts
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Arming Switch Question

Guys,

I am just getting started in electrics and I have a question about how people are doing their arming switches. Having flown gliders for my entire time I have flown RC I get a little nervous around the business end of these electrics. Not sure if the power system makes a difference on how you do the arming switch so I will describe the two systems I am currently using.

System 1:

Motor: Neu 1105-2.5Y/4.41
Controller: Phoenix 35
Battery: TP2100 3S Prolite

System 2:

Motor: Neu 1112-1.5D
Controller: Phoenix 80
Battery: TP3300 3S

Any help you guys can give will be greatly appreciated.

Thank you,

Pat McCleave
Wichita, KS
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Old Jul 21, 2007, 03:53 PM
Registered User
Letchworth, Great Britain (UK)
Joined Jul 2004
11,436 Posts
I've only got an arming switch on one of my models, and that's because access to the battery connection is too close to the prop for comfort. I put a 4mm gold connector into one of the power leads, with the female half glued into, and poking through, the fuselage side, and the wire with the male part on poking through the side too. To energise, I just plug the male into the socket.

On all my other models my battery connectors (Deans Ultra) are my arming switch.
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Old Jul 21, 2007, 04:09 PM
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Grapevine,Texas
Joined Mar 2005
764 Posts
I like this method. The mounting bracket is from Maxx Products- #6970-1

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=114
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Old Jul 21, 2007, 05:01 PM
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up north, mn, usa
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Last edited by jrb1; Jul 21, 2007 at 05:16 PM.
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Old Jul 21, 2007, 05:15 PM
jrb
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Edina, MN, USA
Joined Oct 1999
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Here's what I like to do; only fly electric:
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Old Jul 21, 2007, 05:30 PM
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Joined Jul 2007
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Re: Arming switch

If anyone can post a picture or 2 of the MPI Arming switch part # 6970 showing how you have it hooked up I sure would appreciate it. I'm new to EPower and thought the MPI would be a simple install I have been looking for pictures showing how it is hooked up I assume one set of the switch goes to the power leads and the other to the ESC wires?
Thanks Bruce
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Old Jul 21, 2007, 05:53 PM
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San Mateo, Ca , USA
Joined Jun 2000
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Pat,

Try not to post the same subject in two forum, hard to keep track what is going on.....

see http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=716437


Brian, an EAJ
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Old Jul 21, 2007, 06:53 PM
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USA, KS, Wichita
Joined Sep 2002
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Brian,

Sorry, I was not sure which forum would be the best one to post in. Thanks to all you guys for all your help.

See Ya,

Pat
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Old Jul 21, 2007, 07:02 PM
I don't want to "Switch Now"
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Toronto (Don Mills), Canada
Joined Dec 2002
16,549 Posts
jrb,

What is the wire loop with the spade connectors for?
Does it replace the fuse for measuring current with a clamp on type of meter?
What about the thing inset on the top right of both pictures?

Thanks,

Pat MacKenzie
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Old Jul 21, 2007, 08:16 PM
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San Mateo, Ca , USA
Joined Jun 2000
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Jrb

That charging connector can handle the high current of charging? 3-4 amp?

Problem may be over charging the battery, voltage drop cross the connector may fool the charger to sensor a lower voltage than the pack is actually at, thus over charged the pack. Specailly bad for lipo. Not so for nicad and Nimh, they only sense the voltage peak regardless of the voltage.

Pat MacKenzie, The wire loop replaces the fuse in the system to check the current draw with a clamp meter.

Brian, an EAJ
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Old Jul 22, 2007, 07:08 AM
jrb
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Edina, MN, USA
Joined Oct 1999
11,396 Posts
Iíve used 35amps fuse to 30 & 40 to 35; for nearer 40 I made the shorting plug Ė only use it now.

The loop of 14ga wire is a shunt; lets me measure installed current w/o breaking into the wiring via multimetter -- precise .01ohm resistor, each .01 volt = 1amp.

With voltmeter plugged into the charging jack you can also get loaded volts; so then watts too!

Iíve had no problems pumping 6amps through the jack.
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