|Dec 14, 2010, 11:03 AM|
Airfield Version 2 / FMS Version 5 P51D
Modifications to my Airfield Version 2 P51D (AKA: FMS Version 5)
Click on Photos to Enlarge
Assembled Bird - A work in progress
· Trimmed back of spinner with a Dremel Cut Off Wheel for a close fit to the cowl and then machined it on a router table to true it
· Polished spinner on buffing wheel
· Opened cooling slot in the cowl
· Opened cooling slot behind cowl
· Opened cooling slot in front of battery compartment to allow cooling air through the battery compartment
· Painted all foam behind cowl black
· Re-trimmed cowl to remove silly looking right angle
· Spray painted the Cowl and Rudder in a matching Testors Red to correct factory mismatch.
Motor: = Stock 600KV
· Removed motor
· Added Loctite to motor mount screws
· Checked for motor shaft E-Clip
· Oiled motor bearings
· Added a retaining collar on rear motor shaft to prevent the shaft from ever exiting the plane.
· Corrected motor mount for proper thrust angle = NO RIGHT Thrust, Just Down Thrust
Hobby Lobby Servo Mount / Fairings
· Installed four Hobby-Lobby servo mount / cover / fairings ($17.00) and spray painted silver, black and white to blend in with the trim scheme on the wing bottom.
Cockpit and Pilot Detailing
My pilot had come unglued inside of the cockpit. I also noticed the canopy was loose and was bound to blow off in flight. Since I had to remove the canopy for regluing I did a little detailing. It's not scale, but to me it looks a lot better.
The Canopy was so foggy it was hard to see through it so I polished it inside and out. Now it's clear (It still needs to be repainted)
Steerable / Retractabale Tail Wheel Install.
I have since replaced the mechanical retract with a Hobby King 312 E-Tract. I have used the same method for steering the tail wheel with the new E-Tract.
· Made a T-Bar actuator rod / pushrod for retractable tail wheel from brass bar with a piano wire rod silver soldered- The push rod has a large Z bend so it lines up perfectly with the servo in the servo tray
· Modified tail wheel retract mechanism so servo is in front of the mechanism instead of behind the tail wheel
· Installed retract servo back in the radio compartment’s servo tray, versus having servos in the tail.
· Made a custom aluminum tail wheel leg and steerable tail wheel strut.
· Installed a pull-pull cable setup for steering, using one servo for rudder and tail wheel steering
Retract Retrofit 2.0
These are the Hobby King 514 E-Tracts. After the plastic mounts failed entirely, I installed this hardwood rail and plywood mounting system.
Landing Gear / Retract Updates 2.5
Previously, I modified my wings adding hardwood mounts and 514 e-tracts but I didn't add enough forward rake to prevent the occasional noseover while taxiing on thicker grass.
I have now bent the landing gear struts forward to add more forward rake and I modified the wings so the retracts could close. While I was at it, I cleaned up the bottom of the wings where FMS had left all of the gaping holes for the mechanical retracts by filling them in and covering the entire area.
This modification has substantially improved ground handling to the point that taxiing in rougher grassy areas and hot landings are no longer an issue.
Servos and Control Surfaces
· All control surfaces (Rudder, Elevator, Ailerons and Flaps) have been properly re-hinged with Du-Bro pinned hinges. 4 Hinges for each elevator and 4 for the rudder. 5 hinges on each aileron and 3 hinges on each flap. (28 Hinges Total = Overkill)
· Re-bent the elevator and rudder pushrods so they are perfectly aligned with the control horns at the tail. Between this and the re-hinging, virtually all friction has been eliminated and there is no binding.
· Replaced stock servos with Hextronic HXT 900 servos for ailerons, flaps and rudder.
· Gorilla Glued the hatch magnet onto the hatch because it had fallen off and epoxy would not hold it. I added additional opposing neodymium magnets to the hatch and fuselage for added security.
· Repainted silver and white and black invasion stripes in between hinge lines and touched up all hinge line areas not fully painted at the factory.
· The seats in the fuselage for the Horizontal and Vertical Stabilizer were sanded to allow for a perfect airframe alignment, which is exhibited through the plane’s flight characteristics.
· The Horizontal and Vertical Stabilizers were screwed and lightly glued in with epoxy.
· Much More
|Dec 14, 2010, 12:01 PM|
Thanks for the great info. I got so ingrosed in studying your blog I misposted here.
|Dec 14, 2010, 12:21 PM|
If you do a search, I explained how I did all of these mods back in the FMS P51 thread. When I get a chance, I'll copy the text from those posts into my blog.
|Jan 24, 2011, 02:16 PM|
Yes Dotey. The PZ 15090 is the same as the HK 312 and almost the same as what came in your FMS P51. Follow the procedures I specified in the FMS thread and you'll have your plane back in the air in no time at all. Don't forget that you'll need a 12" servo extension lead for the retrofit. You may as well buy two extensions because sooner or later you will need to replace the FMS E-Tract in the other wing.
|Jan 24, 2011, 05:35 PM|
1. You say that the retract opening where you put the wheel strut is too small? How do you recommend opening up that space? Any tips?
2. Is the speed of the PZ15090 similar to that of the stock fms retract? I think it would actually be cool if their speeds were slightly different!
|Jan 24, 2011, 05:54 PM|
2. The PZ 15090 / HK 312 is the same as the FMS e-tract except for the pivot arm, the mounting plate and the length of the servo lead. The 312 has a shorter servo lead than the FMS, the mounting plates are interchangeable so that's an easy fix and the 312 has a better pivot arm with a brass pivot but the hole is 3 mm, versus 4.5 mm.
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