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Old Jun 25, 2016, 12:40 PM
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Getting a second plane: The Bix3? Or something else?

In my last thread, I got some advice, and now, I'm formulating my plan to get a second plane:
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1...it?usp=sharing

Heres the list in case you didn't want to click on the link:



http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dproduct=58883
Turnigy 2200mAh 3S 25C Lipo Battery - American Shipping

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=65278
HXT900 9 Gram servo (x2) for flaps - American Shipping

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dproduct=74579
Bix3 Plane (PnF) - American Shipping

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...arehouse_.html
Adaptor for UBEC-American Shipping

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dproduct=64374
UBEC - American Shipping

http://store.flitetest.com/battery-voltage-alarm-1-8s/
Voltage checker/alarm -American Shipping

https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-list...&condition=new look for $3.25; ships from texas

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Original-iMA...QAAOSwYudXGLvd
iMAX B6 Charger


http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-5A-AC-Po...8AAOSwstxVZpFR
Charger Power Supply

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Spektrum-DX6...oAAOSwe7BWyNGZ DX6 With Receiver

https://www.amazon.com/Prop-Spinner-...SDPYYBD3YCQWA9
Sport Cub S Extra Propeller






Later On

FliteTest Beginner Swappables -All American Shipping
http://store.flitetest.com/lumenier-...-battery-xt60/
Battery for Planes (XT-60)

http://store.flitetest.com/power-pac...ed-wing-small/
Electronics for Swappable Fuselage

http://store.flitetest.com/3-pack-sw...eed-build-kit/
3 Beginner Air Frames



is this a good setup or not? I pretty much have mind set on using the external ubec now.

Update #2: Now I'm trying to decide between the two batteries listed... Accucell S60 or the iMAX B6 charger?

I've seen some videos of what Brownout looks like and I fear that based on the information I was given in the previous link, the 2A linear BEC in the Bix3 won't be enough for 6 servos.

Another option would be to buy another ESC with an adequate BEC rating (5+Amps), but I'd have to look around for one.

Update: Found one! http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dproduct=65291
SBEC with 3A/5V and 20A esc, looks like it might be good. (But how would I rip out the esc already on Bix3?)

The plane is only my second plane, so I have no previous experience regarding electronics. I think my sport cub s might've had a few brownouts (or were they radio link losses? not sure) at times, and generally it took about 3-4 seconds to recover, but I'm not so sure with a Bix3.

Any help would be greatly appreciated as to whether or not I should worry about Brownouts in the plane, or whether to just scrap this plan entirely and go with scratch-building with flitetest supplies.
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Old Jun 25, 2016, 01:56 PM
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You can use an external BEC or a receiver pack to power your receiver/servos . If you do , be sure to disable the red wire going from the ESC to the receiver .


http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...arehouse_.html


http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=33274
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Old Jun 25, 2016, 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by balsa or carbon View Post
You can use an external BEC or a receiver pack to power your receiver/servos . If you do , be sure to disable the red wire going from the ESC to the receiver .


http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...arehouse_.html


http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=33274
Would this be too much of a hassle to always worry about two batteries for both components of the plane so that I be better off just getting the ESC with the better BEC that was mentioned in my post?

Or is this trade-off worth the hassle of always charging 2 batteries?
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Old Jun 25, 2016, 03:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jajefan View Post
Would this be too much of a hassle to always worry about two batteries for both components of the plane so that I be better off just getting the ESC with the better BEC that was mentioned in my post?

Or is this trade-off worth the hassle of always charging 2 batteries?
An external BEC runs off the same battery . For expensive airframes I use external BEC's , for home-made Dollar Store Foam planes I don't .
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Old Jun 25, 2016, 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by balsa or carbon View Post
An external BEC runs off the same battery . For expensive airframes I use external BEC's , for home-made Dollar Store Foam planes I don't .
How would I make this happen with the Bix3? Bix3 runs off 3 cell but the 1300 is a 2 cell, and the included ESC is a XT60 connector

sorry, I'm just particularly new to this and don't know how i would set this up. All I know is to plug a battery into an ESC and make the plane fly
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Old Jun 25, 2016, 09:46 PM
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Originally Posted by balsa or carbon View Post
An external BEC runs off the same battery . For expensive airframes I use external BEC's , for home-made Dollar Store Foam planes I don't .
How would I make this happen with the Bix3? Bix3 runs off 3 cell but the 1300 is a 2 cell, and the included ESC is a XT60 connector
If you were to use a connector similar to the one shown in BalsaOrCarbon's picture, you could eliminate the 1300mah 2s pack. You would draw power from your 2200 3s. All of the plane's electronics are powered by one battery. It is hard to see in that picture, but that connector consists of a male and female battery connector. One side plugs into the battery and the ESC plugs into the other side of it. So the current that powers the plane just passes straight through it. That connect also has two wires that branch off and go to your BEC. This lets the BEC draw power from the battery as well.
Here is one at hobbyking with XT60 connectors: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...arehouse_.html

If you do decide to use an external BEC, instead of the one built into the ESC, you will probably need to disconnect the red wire from the ESC that plugs into the receiver to avoid giving the receiver power from two separate sources. Also, If you do get the external bec you mentioned, it doesn't appear to come with any type of plug/connector to attach it to the power source.
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Old Jun 25, 2016, 09:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kaptainkruton View Post
If you were to use a connector similar to the one shown in BalsaOrCarbon's picture, you could eliminate the 1300mah 2s pack. You would draw power from your 2200 3s. All of the plane's electronics are powered by one battery. It is hard to see in that picture, but that connector consists of a male and female battery connector. One side plugs into the battery and the ESC plugs into the other side of it. So the current that powers the plane just passes straight through it. That connect also has two wires that branch off and go to your BEC. This lets the BEC draw power from the battery as well.
Here is one at hobbyking with XT60 connectors: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...arehouse_.html

If you do decide to use an external BEC, instead of the one built into the ESC, you will probably need to disconnect the red wire from the ESC that plugs into the receiver to avoid giving the receiver power from two separate sources. Also, If you do get the external bec you mentioned, it doesn't appear to come with any type of plug/connector to attach it to the power source.
Ah, that cleared it up a lot.

Thanks!!

What about the ESC with the SBEC inside of it? Would that be another viable option?

Also, is there any comment regarding the rest of the items on the list? Or is the list already a good setup for getting started?
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Old Jun 25, 2016, 09:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jajefan View Post
How would I make this happen with the Bix3? Bix3 runs off 3 cell but the 1300 is a 2 cell, and the included ESC is a XT60 connector

sorry, I'm just particularly new to this and don't know how i would set this up. All I know is to plug a battery into an ESC and make the plane fly
Use this adapter between the ESC and battery , then connect the external BEC to the JST ( small red plug ) .

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...r_Adapter.html
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Old Jun 26, 2016, 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by kaptainkruton View Post
If you were to use a connector similar to the one shown in BalsaOrCarbon's picture, you could eliminate the 1300mah 2s pack. You would draw power from your 2200 3s. All of the plane's electronics are powered by one battery. It is hard to see in that picture, but that connector consists of a male and female battery connector. One side plugs into the battery and the ESC plugs into the other side of it. So the current that powers the plane just passes straight through it. That connect also has two wires that branch off and go to your BEC. This lets the BEC draw power from the battery as well.
Here is one at hobbyking with XT60 connectors: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...arehouse_.html

If you do decide to use an external BEC, instead of the one built into the ESC, you will probably need to disconnect the red wire from the ESC that plugs into the receiver to avoid giving the receiver power from two separate sources. Also, If you do get the external bec you mentioned, it doesn't appear to come with any type of plug/connector to attach it to the power source.
Quote:
Originally Posted by balsa or carbon View Post
Use this adapter between the ESC and battery , then connect the external BEC to the JST ( small red plug ) .

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...r_Adapter.html
Thanks for the help you guys! I have finally finalized my list with the two recommended items.

One last question:
Can someone look over it to see if it's a good setup or not?
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Old Jun 26, 2016, 04:06 PM
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Sorry for the double post/bump, but I am sort of in a time scrunch and want some feedback on my finalized list.
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Old Jun 27, 2016, 05:38 PM
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It appears the question is, should you be using a separate BEC for the servos.

My Bixler V1.1 has gone from a 30 Amp ESC running one motor to two 20 Amp ESCs running twins. Only one of those ESCs runs the servos. OK, only 4 servos but a servo is only drawing current when moving so a couple of extras on the flaps shouldn't make any difference.

My setup, 2 - 19 g motors, 2 - 20 Amp ESCs, 4 - 9 g servos, 1 - 2200mAh 3S battery. I have sometimes used a couple of extra servos for dropping things which would be the same as a couple for flaps.
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Old Jun 27, 2016, 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Mac50L View Post
It appears the question is, should you be using a separate BEC for the servos.

My Bixler V1.1 has gone from a 30 Amp ESC running one motor to two 20 Amp ESCs running twins. Only one of those ESCs runs the servos. OK, only 4 servos but a servo is only drawing current when moving so a couple of extras on the flaps shouldn't make any difference.

My setup, 2 - 19 g motors, 2 - 20 Amp ESCs, 4 - 9 g servos, 1 - 2200mAh 3S battery. I have sometimes used a couple of extra servos for dropping things which would be the same as a couple for flaps.
Question is,
Have u ever browned out?

Just had a horrific crash this evening with my sport cub s due to stupid decisions.. (I put a Bluetooth Tile-finder thing on top of my plane ---- and Bluetooth uses 2.4 GHz---so you know what happened) . I don't want to make any more

Also, if you can, can you make any comments about my list of items that I'm buying? That's my real concern now before buying anything.
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Old Jun 29, 2016, 12:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jajefan View Post
Question is,
Have u ever browned out?
No.

Your "brownout" if due to Bluetooth wasn't a "brownout" but interference and a EBEC won't make any difference to that problem.
Quote:
Also, if you can, can you make any comments about my list of items that I'm buying? That's my real concern now before buying anything.
Two chargers, I use an Accucell but not that model and it works well.

Y XT-60 cable - Why? Unless you are going to fly a twin?

There is a cheap HK tool (sort of plastic pliers) which makes unfastening XT-60 connectors very easy.

Swappables - you can make them much cheaper than that ($30), Nutball, Dart-XS (FT Flyer) and Delta. An airframe is so cheap I leave one (Dart-XS which I flat-packed over there) in Australia and fly it when over there, probably about $6. Also the nose is too short on the FT Flyer, make it an inch longer at least so the battery can go further back. Make sure the fuselage is wide enough for the battery you are going to use, plus about 5 - 10 mm because the leads come out of a battery sideways a bit.

My Darts use a 19 gram motor, will fly gently on half throttle or go berserk with an open throttle - wild aerobatics. Battery, 800mAh 2S. I use a 3S on the biplane with the same motor.
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Old Jun 29, 2016, 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Mac50L View Post
No.

Your "brownout" if due to Bluetooth wasn't a "brownout" but interference and a EBEC won't make any difference to that problem.

Two chargers, I use an Accucell but not that model and it works well.

Y XT-60 cable - Why? Unless you are going to fly a twin?

There is a cheap HK tool (sort of plastic pliers) which makes unfastening XT-60 connectors very easy.

Swappables - you can make them much cheaper than that ($30), Nutball, Dart-XS (FT Flyer) and Delta. An airframe is so cheap I leave one (Dart-XS which I flat-packed over there) in Australia and fly it when over there, probably about $6. Also the nose is too short on the FT Flyer, make it an inch longer at least so the battery can go further back. Make sure the fuselage is wide enough for the battery you are going to use, plus about 5 - 10 mm because the leads come out of a battery sideways a bit.

My Darts use a 19 gram motor, will fly gently on half throttle or go berserk with an open throttle - wild aerobatics. Battery, 800mAh 2S. I use a 3S on the biplane with the same motor.
Thanks for the suggestions

Sorry I didn't clarify this, I was just asking if you've ever browned out while using your built in BEC

The Bluetooth tile interference had nothing to do with it :P ^_^

The Y-harness is for the UBEC im buying. I'm just gonna use the same battery to power both BEC and ESC but the BEC doesn't have a pre-soldered connector, so I have to buy a Y-harness and some XT-60 connectors to solder on to the BEC (ESC already has XT-60).

Also, for buying the FT- Swappables is mainly due to convenience. I want to start scratchbuilding, but my ideology is that I don't want to start off by trying to get different frame parts when they all come in a nice package like the 3-pack bundle (btw, that's probably one of the only airframes I'll ever buy from FT, as I do like the premise of using $2 airframes), and plus, I like like 20 minutes from their HQ; shipping will cost nothing.
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Old Jun 29, 2016, 03:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jajefan View Post
The Y-harness is for the UBEC im buying. I'm just gonna use the same battery to power both BEC and ESC but the BEC doesn't have a pre-soldered connector, so I have to buy a Y-harness and some XT-60 connectors to solder on to the BEC (ESC already has XT-60).
All those Y harness thick wires and XT-60 plugs will be heavy and take up a lot of room in the BIX , I recommend using these to connect the external BEC :

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...arehouse_.html

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...arehouse_.html
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