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Old Apr 30, 2012, 08:19 PM
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United States, NJ
Joined Jan 2011
137 Posts
I need to change the boom. How do guys you do it? I was thinking of the following.
- remove the heat shrink and unsolder the wires so I can slide off the boom.
- replace the boom (does the wire easily slides back to the boom?)
- solder back the wires and heat shrink it.

Is this how you guys do it?
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Old Apr 30, 2012, 08:23 PM
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Joined Jan 2012
16 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by LevTor View Post
I need to change the boom. How do guys you do it? I was thinking of the following.
- remove the heat shrink and unsolder the wires so I can slide off the boom.
- replace the boom (does the wire easily slides back to the boom?)
- solder back the wires and heat shrink it.

Is this how you guys do it?
Pretty much, but on mine I opted to wind the wiring around the boom instead of running it back through it. That way I can avoid a bunch of soldering work every time I replace a boom. Folks using solid booms do the same.
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Old May 01, 2012, 04:55 AM
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Joined Nov 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LevTor View Post
I need to change the boom. How do guys you do it? I was thinking of the following.
- remove the heat shrink and unsolder the wires so I can slide off the boom.
- replace the boom (does the wire easily slides back to the boom?)
- solder back the wires and heat shrink it.

Is this how you guys do it?
I just changed my boom yesterday, I removed the heat shrink tube at plug side by using a small sharp scissor, did it carefully not to damage the wire inside, unsoldered the power wire, it was not difficult. Removed the boom from the main body. Straightened the copper wire and removed the tail motor from boom bit by bit carefully since the broken boom may damage the coating of the copper wires. I inserted the copper wire into the new boom and slowly push the wire until reached to the other end of the boom, inserted the boom into main body, make sure the copper wire comes out from the top of the hole, inserted new shrink tube, I use 1.5mm shrink tube. I soldered the copper wire back to the power cord with matched wire color, heated the shrink tube by a lighter carefully, the lighter should not place too close to the wires otherwise the wires will be melted and damaged.

The work was not too difficult.

Today I am going to find a good socket which I can soldered on the receiver to fixed the power cord damage problem.
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Old May 01, 2012, 09:10 AM
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The potentiometer screw needs a little dot drawn on it. The settings I had posted on the previous page are with the flat part of the screw opposite of the settings. A dot needs to be placed opposite of the flat part of the screw. Be careful though, do not put go over the 11 -1 o'clock spot with the pot/screw. I have done it but it isnt advised. The potentionmeter wipe strip isnt under the spot from 11-1 o'clock. Excessive turning of the pot will lead to wear of the carbon strip. Also be careful after setting the screw, the heli can be adjusted to the extremes.
If you dont have your transmitter properly tuned then you wont see the full effect of the potentiometer settings. I use Manny's settings here: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...5#post20571242 it says devo 12 but it will work for any devos. These radio settings are very touchy, and coupled with the pot. set on extreme- look out!

One more thing, I don't know if my heli is an exception or not but I had a problem with one of the pot settings. I think I had the flat part of the pot. screw facing 4 o'clock so other end was around 10/11 oclock. I was trying to do flips/inverted with that setting and the heli would violently shake after coming out of inverted hover. It would shake for a second or two and would stop. it would only happen after a flip or coming out of inverted hover. When it happened I had no clue what was going on. I started to think if I changed anything, and remembered adjusting the screw. I have a brushless esc in the way and couldnt tell what the screw was adjusted at. I thought I had it adj. to 2 o'clock with the flat part at 7o'clock, since that seems to be the most extreme setting.

happy flying.
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Old May 01, 2012, 10:24 AM
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Joined Nov 2007
44 Posts
After 50+ battery changes and some crashes, some of the wires between the battery cable and receiver were broken. It is easy to solder another one on the receiver but I think soon it will be broken again, so I try to install a socket on the receiver instead of directly solder the cable on it, hope it will be more durable.

The smallest connector I found in local electronic shop is this 2mm wafer connector. Because of the width I have to use 3 pins version and take away the middle pin before soldered on the receiver. It is slightly bigger than what I want but I think it is working fine.
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Old May 01, 2012, 10:43 AM
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Joined Jul 2008
775 Posts
I would say that is a bad idea, the stress of the batteries pulling on the board in a crash would crack the board. Maybe.

I gorilla glued my cables to the board and have crashed a ton!. I use the gorilla glue that says 2x stronger dries white. I love it! Plus, I would rather have the battery go flying off in a crash. The less weight that can be shed in a crash means less damage to the heli.

I brought the question to the table before. I wanted to know if I should glue the landing gear in place. If having it glued meant the battery would stay in place too. In a crash the weight of the battery and landing gear is adding to the weight of the heli. All of that weight smashing the heli. Now think of the crash without the weight of the battery and landing gear. The crash would be less substantial. PLus, I would think damage to the landing gear would be less too if it pops off instead of the whole weight of the heli pushing on it in a crash.

Think of all the weight of the battery ripping itself from the plug you soldered in from a crash. That is a lot of stress, and it might be at a weird angle too.

Glue the wires to the board and they will never come off. i have had huge crashed, enough to break the canopy in three pieces, the boom snap,and a pinion lost in one crash. The battery went flying and so did the landing gear. The battery was perfectly fine.

Its just my opinion but I just dont think its a good idea.
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Old May 01, 2012, 10:45 AM
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United States, MI, Livonia
Joined Apr 2009
16,524 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by pauliu View Post
After 50+ battery changes and some crashes, some of the wires between the battery cable and receiver were broken. It is easy to solder another one on the receiver but I think soon it will be broken again, so I try to install a socket on the receiver instead of directly solder the cable on it, hope it will be more durable.

The smallest connector I found in local electronic shop is this 2mm wafer connector. Because of the width I have to use 3 pins version and take away the middle pin before soldered on the receiver. It is slightly bigger than what I want but I think it is working fine.
A dab of will placed hot glue is a lot lighter, has no extra connector power lost and lasts a long time..
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Old May 01, 2012, 11:11 AM
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One more reason I changed to use socket is the +v and -v on the receiver are quite close together, today I found some broken wires almost touch to others.

Thanks for advise, I will change to use glue method if I found something wrong on the socket.
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Old May 01, 2012, 08:37 PM
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I cut out the "locks" from the plug, hope it will be more easy to be pulling out when crash.
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Old May 02, 2012, 10:42 AM
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United States, IL, Rockford
Joined Jan 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shark_fighter78 View Post
where is the best place to buy it from, I think I should get the devo8s tx
I'm interested in the Mini CP also. Helircstore.com is out of stock. The cheapest Mini CP with the Devo 7 is at eskyhelicopter.com, $230.43 with shipping. I've ordered parts from there once, they're fine. Helipal.com has it for $232.60 with shipping.
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Old May 03, 2012, 09:11 AM
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I would ask helircstore when he will have it in stock. I would also buy the minicp with the devo10. I have the devo7 and wish I had the devo10 or 6 or 8 or 12. The 7 is ok, the menu was hard to understand at first but now I breeze through it. The screen is also easy to see in the sun. The bad thing is that it has not way to stop the timer when you hit throttle hold. The other devo's do this. I always seem to forget to stop the timer and restart it after a crash. THe other devo's will stop the timer when you hit throttle hold and restart it when you hit the throttle.
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Old May 03, 2012, 09:31 AM
9958 gave me the toilet bowl
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United States, IL, Rockford
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Originally Posted by mescalinedream View Post
I would also buy the minicp with the devo10. I have the devo7 and wish I had the devo10 or 6 or 8 or 12. The 7 is ok,
Due to my financial situation, price is extremely important. I really have no business buying these expensive helis, so I have to be content with the Devo 7.
Thanks for the input, though.
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Old May 03, 2012, 12:22 PM
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Kingdom of Sweden, Västra Götaland County, Lindome
Joined Jul 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mescalinedream View Post
The bad thing is that it has not way to stop the timer when you hit throttle hold. The other devo's do this. I always seem to forget to stop the timer and restart it after a crash. THe other devo's will stop the timer when you hit throttle hold and restart it when you hit the throttle.
Are you sure about this?
I can't get that to work on my 8.
Only start/stop on throttle stick pos not throttle output.

Regards
Paul
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Old May 03, 2012, 12:54 PM
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Maybe? DOnt know. I thought I had heard that.
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Old May 03, 2012, 10:43 PM
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United States, CA, Baldwin Park
Joined Jun 2004
2,026 Posts
I just finished modding my Mini CP to brushless with a dual tail motor setup and it's by far one of the best micro heli I have flown. Hate to say this but I think I like my new setup better than my expensive blinged out and modded MCPX
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