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Old Mar 06, 2013, 04:01 PM
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Hi again guys, which bnf is considered the best. I'm a bit confused which people like the most. Is it the yellow one with the old battery connection, or one of the black and orange ones with new battery connection, or that white bnf from banggood that has old batt connection, or are they the newer models just with old batt connections. Can you guys enlighten me. The rtf I own was a blue/white with new battery connection, thanks guys.
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Old Mar 06, 2013, 04:02 PM
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United States, CA, Burbank
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Spun up my H911 last nigh for the first time in a while and was disappointed to see it bouncing around when I tried to maintain a hover. It wasn't quite a classic TBE but it was something similar. Didn't see anything obviously wrong with it physically and the controls/servos work as normal. The tail motor got hot quickly so I guess it's on the way out. What might be causing the lack of hover stability? Main motor seemed to have plenty of power. Blades have a few marks on them but nothing major.
bump - any ideas?
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Old Mar 06, 2013, 04:09 PM
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I'm in the same boat with my v911 sting, tail motor has started runnin real hot, main blades seem fine 1 or 2 tiny nics. I have light 3 in 1 machine oil I'm using to lubricate. When I lube the tail motor where do I put a tiny bit of oil is it where the drive shaft meets the motor casing?
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Old Mar 06, 2013, 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Cebos View Post
I'm in the same boat with my v911 sting, tail motor has started runnin real hot, main blades seem fine 1 or 2 tiny nics. I have light 3 in 1 machine oil I'm using to lubricate. When I lube the tail motor where do I put a tiny bit of oil is it where the drive shaft meets the motor casing?
I would just pull the rear tail prop off and youll see a where to put oil...Make sure you wipe of the tail shaft really good before putting the prop back on....maybe some alcohol on a rag

And careful not to push the prop on too far as it can bind against the shaft tube and cause it to drag...That will definately cause it to get hot....You should be able to blow on the prop easily and see it turn with little effort.
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Old Mar 06, 2013, 04:19 PM
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Originally Posted by stringrazor View Post
bump - any ideas?
Im guessing you tried to re trim it to stabalize it?.

Did it fly good before you put it to rest for a bit?
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Old Mar 06, 2013, 04:36 PM
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United States, MA, Plymouth
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.How difficult is it two change two wires around then take a piece of masking tape and mark one harness MCPX and another V911..

My key obstacles would be:

1) no meter to figure out polarity
2) no exposed leads on either battery to clue me in.
3) No clue how to wire a balance harness.

I like others to do the work for me, as my other hobby/career takes up it's own fair share of time, money, and neon...





Anyway, back to the CNC upgrade...
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Old Mar 06, 2013, 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by 6sharky9 View Post
I would just pull the rear tail prop off and youll see a where to put oil...Make sure you wipe of the tail shaft really good before putting the prop back on....maybe some alcohol on a rag

And careful not to push the prop on too far as it can bind against the shaft tube and cause it to drag...That will definately cause it to get hot....You should be able to blow on the prop easily and see it turn with little effort.
Yeh Iv done this on a daily basis last few days, just lubed it again its real wobbly now on the turns and sometimes ends up stabilizing facing an undesired direction when buttoning off from forward pitching its sticking on right hand yaw turns. My tail rudder is the one with the hole right through so there's three tiny white rings on the shaft, there is no binding between them and the motor casing. Hard to believe the tail motor might be 'on its way out' it ain't had that much of a life. Still hovers very nicely, almost feels like when turning the centre of balance is out. I did have 2-3 weeks of fun flying when it was new, im trying my best to try cool that motor but it would literally burn yr fingertips and very short flight times. Not sure what to do now guess il replace that tail boom and motor aswell as getting a bnf, not sure which bnf is best to choose as per my other post above.
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Old Mar 06, 2013, 04:40 PM
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I just received my Helios 100 fly bars from bang good.com and made 1 work. I tried sanding the balls down a bit to fit in the links but went too far. Since I didn't have any spare ones I cut the paddles off and cut the stock bar ends off to give the same finished length as the Helios bar. I drilled in the paddles till I just touched the metal weights and crazy glued the paddles on. As near as I can tell in my living room the fff is a bit better but it still pitches up quite a bit when I let go. Definitely didn't hurt anything though. Was fun to mod something. Just got my second bnf and am waiting on one more from bang good. When the wind dies down I'll go outside and test out the forward flight more. I also took a spare main gear and modded it to let my 160mah um turnigy's fit through. I will play with the cg as well and let you know how it goes.
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Old Mar 06, 2013, 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by allisonmo2 View Post
I just received my Helios 100 fly bars from bang good.com and made 1 work. I tried sanding the balls down a bit to fit in the links but went too far. Since I didn't have any spare ones I cut the paddles off and cut the stock bar ends off to give the same finished length as the Helios bar. I drilled in the paddles till I just touched the metal weights and crazy glued the paddles on. As near as I can tell in my living room the fff is a bit better but it still pitches up quite a bit when I let go. Definitely didn't hurt anything though. Was fun to mod something. Just got my second bnf and am waiting on one more from bang good.
What's the best bnf to get
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Old Mar 06, 2013, 04:52 PM
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Okay, CNC mod...

I finished putting it together on my lightningbird.

Good news: The blades DO fit. There's included tubes that fit over the blade grip that makes the props fit perfectly.

Bad news: The nature of the blade grip design makes it impossible to fit the cnc head onto the stock shaft.


So I took it all apart, and put ALL the CNC stuff on with the exception of the anti-rotation bracket. I think what they expect is for you to cut the bracket off the existing part, and then secure the new mount around the remaining ring from the old mount. I wanted to be able to return everything stock, so I skipped this whole step and used the stock bracket.

Otherwise I used the entire head, swash, and shaft.




Performance wise, it handles great. A lot better than I expected after all the negative reviews in the thread. I think the 9x really gives that extra ability to dial up rates and expo to get more response, but even with that in mind I don't really see any drop in performance compared to my regular bird. In fact, I dialed the rates down a bit because the extra weight seem to have translated into extra momentum as well.

So far so good. Still need to do a little more balancing with the swash, I've got a tiny bit of forward drift. After more time, and maybe a chance to fly outdoors, I'll add more about it.
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Old Mar 06, 2013, 04:53 PM
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United States, UT, Salt Lake City
Joined May 2012
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JST PH Series Header Connector (mCPxV1V2/v911V2)

The part you are looking for, (the battery connector for Blade mCPx (V1 and V2 but not the new BL), WLToys v911 (V2), GW9928, etc.), is a 2-conductor JST PH series header male pin connector. You can get them in small quantities from Digikey for $0.16 each, (or get 50 for $4.93 - price drops even more with higher quantities). The problem here is that shipping will be $10 for any quantity.


Alternatively, (after a semi-lengthly search) I settled on some of these Micro JST-PH 2 Pin Male Pigtail (180mm/26AWG/2mm Pitch) Female Plug from Quantum hobbies for $0.99 each, which include one male header connector and matching female housing receptacle with an attached length of quality 26 AWG wire. Handy for making an extension adapter. I'm going to be converting my v911-V2s over to the Molex Picoblade series (Blade mCX, nanoCPx, GW9958, etc.)


The other ebay link with 5 for 4 bucks looks good if you only need a few. Yes, some soldering is required and yes, you need to ensure correct polarity!
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Old Mar 06, 2013, 04:54 PM
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United States, PA, East Berlin
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And the most important mod of all to the black one
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Old Mar 06, 2013, 04:57 PM
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Joined Oct 2011
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Originally Posted by Cebos View Post
What's the best bnf to get
The yellow or white (unpainted) from BG. Both have old battery connectors.
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Old Mar 06, 2013, 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Cebos View Post
What's the best bnf to get

The white and red one flies the same as my black rtf. My next one from banggood is blue white so we'll see. They all fly fine. I don't expect 200 dollar cp performance from a 20 dollar heli.
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Old Mar 06, 2013, 05:12 PM
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Never met a V911 I did not like. They are all good.
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