Thanks for posting the video links guys. Wonderful stuff!
sparks

Originally Posted by Ian Easton

What are you guys using in the way of wheels. I've been looking at the 4" to 6" range but some of them are a bit hefty in weight and price.

I have a pair of 5" DuBro treaded wheels going 'spare' that you can have for £12. See pic. PM me if you are interested.

If you don't like the treaded version I have used the Balsa Cabin 5" wheels at £15/pr plus postage. They are not as soft as other air wheels like the DuBro smooth but are well made and flying off long grass who needs soft wheels? They are a tadge heavier than the DuBro ones but only a few grams but a hell of a lot cheaper.

After posting this I realised your location Ian! Probably not much use to you - sorry. However I'll leave it up in case anybody in the UK is interested.

Originally Posted by Ian Easton

I never thought of putting the servos inside the surfaces -that looks good.

That was my orginal plan too - but as I said earlier I shied away from it as I thought the model migght end up tail heavy; and then had to add lead to the tail. So a good plan methinks!

Thanks for the offer of the wheel Doctor G but by the time I add shipping costs it would end up being about the same as buying them here. Has anyone tried the Sullivan "Skylite " wheels?

I have just read the criticisms of the 'bridge crash flying' video and have to say that although I posted the video it in no way does it reflects my own approach to the hobby especially as I have managed to maintain all my RC planes since making the first a Junior 60 in 1962 / 3. The video was discovered by one of my club's members and of course the Falcon was immediately evident to me and hence my posting. However we are very safety conscious at the club and would not condone intentional crashing of model planes under any circumstances as we are always aware that any such action could mean the loss of the flying site.

As someone else has mentioned pollution of the river could be caused by intentional or otherwise of the model planes crashing and this was immediately apparent to me as a former sea-trout fisher. I can only liken the approach by the modellers as being similar to F2E and F2B or any other control line combat flying where you would need total disregard of the combat model planes to win competitions.

Actually I thought it was absolutely hilarious and I don't understand what people are so upset about. Were they endangering anyone? Polluting the creek? Spoiling the "image" of the hobby? What a joke! Lighten up people, it was fun to watch. Thanks very much for posting it.

Jim

Originally Posted by Ian Easton

What are you guys using in the way of wheels. I've been looking at the 4" to 6" range but some of them are a bit hefty in weight and price.

When choosing wheels Ian, check the axle hole diameter.
I did not and found my 5 inch wheels have 5mm axle holes, while the u/c wire is 5/32 (4mm).
Fortunately I found some brass tubing to make up a sleeve.
My spec.
Wire: K&S 5/32 stock 508
Tubing: K&S 3/16 x 0.04 stock 129

Ray

[QUOTE=brokenenglish;20010575]However, the Majestic Major is obviously beyond the possibility of hand launching, especially for someone flying alone. So the MM was/is take-off only. Unfortunately, on the second flight (years ago), I flew it out of range and it became the only RC model I've ever crashed. The crash didn't do terminal damage and the plane was flying again three days later, but I've never been able to bend the the undercarriage back into anything like proper alignment.

I have flown a Majestic Major for many years and know well the difficulty of trying to straighten bent u/c wire. But it can be done.
I made a clamping tool that can straighten bent wire on a model to virtually the original state. The trick is to bend it in the opposite direction about as much as it is out of true.
If you look up a post I entered some time back under,
ol Timer /Find all threads started by ol Timer /Straightening out bent undercarriage wire, there are three photos and explanation (sorry I don't know how to enter the link here).
Ray

Thanks Ray.
I've decided that I'm going to do a "minimum" job to replace the U/C with a detachable one. I shall have to see whether I can separate the present wire from the ply former. If not, I shall replace the former. In both cases, I shall install transversal "bearers" across the bottom of the two formers supporting the U/C and just screw on a detachable unit.
Apologies to Ian for going a bit off topic.
Brian

Well finally I've completed all the components -I can't believe what a chore the wings were! I'll post some photos of the bare bones assembled later. Now a bit of sanding and fitting to be done then on to the covering -whoo hoo!

All the building looks fantastic, just about to start a KK Falcon myself. Where's the best place to make the cut/hinge lines, or pivot points for RC control ? Looking at the rudder on the original do the control surface's need to be very large?

Originally Posted by Toylander

All the building looks fantastic, just about to start a KK Falcon myself. Where's the best place to make the cut/hinge lines, or pivot points for RC control ? Looking at the rudder on the original do the control surface's need to be very large?

But it is a nice easy line to make the hinge on. Just have minimal deflection on the surfaces. I have 15° either side and that is fine.

In preparation for cockpit glazing the Falcon under construction, I have some clear 30 thou A4 acetate sheet, from Balsa Cabin. I would prefer to use see-through tinted material instead, having a (best description) smoke or neutral density appearance. Nothing found trawling Google. Any suggestions for UK source? Thanks.
Ray

You can dye the acetate with Rit fabric dye. You can have any colour you like.

Originally Posted by ol Timer

In preparation for cockpit glazing the Falcon under construction, I have some clear 30 thou A4 acetate sheet, from Balsa Cabin. I would prefer to use see-through tinted material instead, having a (best description) smoke or neutral density appearance. Nothing found trawling Google. Any suggestions for UK source? Thanks.
Ray

Hi,
On my last Junior 60, about 20 years ago, I used transparent rigid plastic document/sheet holders/separators from my kids' school files. These should be available from office/stationery shops and are just like "model aircraft" acetate glazing. They come in some very nice shades. Thus my Jr 60 had very nice blue windows, in a blue that just about matched the jap tissue decoration. See photo (you can just see the blue windscreen).
Most important, the same stuff also comes in clear of course, and years of diesel fuel had no effect whatsoever on the glazing.
Brian