Originally Posted by Dr.M

Wow, those are pretty high gains. Perhaps tuning the PID settings would help: add more P and lower the I.

Strangely enough my 450 feels the same - faster flip rates on ele than ail. However, the 500 is backwards, ele is OK, but the ail roll is visibly higher. I guess each heli-gyro pairing has its unique quirks that need some tuning. I'm going to fiddle with the D/R on the Tx to get the same feeling on ele and ail rather than gyro tweaking. It's just so much easier and more predictable.

Get the lower Tarot head aileron flips on a sixpence (or on a dime for the septics)

Quick question, under the Server Trim tab in setup, is this where I would use a swashplate leveling tool and if so, can I level idle up midstick and full positive collective and full negative collective here?

Sorry, I meant to say Servo trim tab.

Originally Posted by v823515

Quick question, under the Server Trim tab in setup, is this where I would use a swashplate leveling tool and if so, can I level idle up midstick and full positive collective and full negative collective here?

You use the Servo Trim tab to set the servo arms at 90 degrees (this will give you symetrical movement up and down), you then adjust the lengths of the Servo arm to swash links to get the swash level.

Originally Posted by naryan

You can try removing the main blades and slowly spinning it up to about half throttle. If you still have the shaking then remove the tail blades and do it again. That helped me track down a tail blade vibration.

Very helpful thankyou.

Originally Posted by 2Doggs

I can see from your smilies that you're feeling very emotional about this issue!

Nope it wasn't me who placed the smilies, it was my little 3 year old boy when I went out of the room. He sneaked in and played around with my laptop.

Originally Posted by ptern

Nope it wasn't me who placed the smilies, it was my little 3 year old boy when I went out of the room. He sneaked in and played around with my laptop.

Brilliant! You better worry when he starts picking up hex drivers, though - you might need to check your setup!

I got my bluetooth adapter in the mail today. The good news is IT WORKS!!! I can now connect to my heli without the USB link. I just run John's app and click connect (COM5). The bluetooth links and I get 3 green lights. Everything works fine.

So optional it can be mounted on the heli or moved between helis for wireless connectivity.

Full details to come...

Originally Posted by beenflying

I got my bluetooth adapter in the mail today. The good news is IT WORKS!!! I can now connect to my heli without the USB link. I just run John's app and click connect (COM5). The bluetooth links and I get 3 green lights. Everything works fine.

So optional it can be mounted on the heli or moved between helis for wireless connectivity.

Full details to come...

Very cool - looking forward to seeing the details, particularly how heavy.

Originally Posted by beenflying

I got my bluetooth adapter in the mail today. The good news is IT WORKS!!! I can now connect to my heli without the USB link. I just run John's app and click connect (COM5). The bluetooth links and I get 3 green lights. Everything works fine.

So optional it can be mounted on the heli or moved between helis for wireless connectivity.

Full details to come...

Excellent! I am just working with a Wifi unit at the moment. Just need to find some more programming time to finish interfacing to it

Originally Posted by MikeHRC

Very cool - looking forward to seeing the details, particularly how heavy.

3.6g without the lead and 6g with a 3GYS program box lead.

Originally Posted by beenflying

3.6g without the lead and 6g with a 3GYS program box lead.

Originally Posted by John_NZ

Excellent! I am just working with a Wifi unit at the moment. Just need to find some more programming time to finish interfacing to it

That's excellent also! Opens the door to all sorts of devices that can link to it.

FBL Bluetooth Interface

The Bluetooth unit can be obtained here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/290636551744
The 3GYS data lead here: http://www.rc711.com/shop/alzrc-3gys...le-p-5684.html


[Click pictures to enlarge]

The lead to the program box and USB link is:
GND - Red
VCC - Black
TXD - Red
RXD - White

The lead to the bluetooth unit is:
VCC
GND
TXD
RXD

This means that two wires in the program box lead have to be swapped. Carefully slide off the heat shrink and remove the read and black lead closest to one end. Be careful lifting the little plastic arms to remove the leads. Reinsert the leads the other way around:

VCC - Black
GND - Red
TXD - Red
RXD - White



Connect the lead to the Bluetooth unit with the visible gold pins facing up.



Power up a heli with the FBL unit and plug in the bluetooth lead to the gyro. The red LED will flash. Search for bluetooth devices on the PC/laptop. "linvor" will be detected. Add the device and enter a pin code of "1234". If it then asks to add a coms port to the device, check this and proceed (note the com port allocated). The red light on the bluetooth unit will go solid.

Turn on your Tx and wait for the gyro to initialize. Run John's app, select the com port noted above and click connect. You should get 3 greens lights, after a short delay.

As mentioned the unit weights 3.6g and with the 3GYS program box lead 6g. Of course you don't have to mount the bluetooth unit on the heli, you can just use it instead of the USB link, as a wireless connection. Just plug it into the gyro you want to change/program.

^^^ Awesome!