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Old Oct 11, 2012, 06:10 AM
3d addict
United States, NY, Rochester
Joined May 2011
1,038 Posts
She will last. No worries. I just discovered I half ripped off a cabane the other night. Who knows if that was the first battery or the last battery. Glue is drying now so I can fly it during break this morning and tear something else up. Lol.
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Old Oct 11, 2012, 07:21 AM
Austrian adrenaline junkie...
Joined Jun 2012
64 Posts
Hey guys,

I saw my lower foam hinges are ripped a little bit at the horns, altough I put stripes over it.

And since the foam hinges on the double wings of the bipe make very much resistance for the servo (especially on max. throw) I thougt about cutting them and use this:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...0pcs_set_.html

what do you think about that?!?
too much play? anybody done yet?

I love that plane, so I don`t want to mess it up...
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Last edited by tigerduck; Oct 11, 2012 at 08:06 AM.
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Old Oct 11, 2012, 07:40 AM
Team Twisted!
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United States, CO, Denver
Joined Jun 2011
1,732 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by carr52 View Post
Wow cdee a nice shiney clean looking Pitts. Ain't seen one of those in a while. Mine is shall we say a tad bit dusty looking. Nice flying. Thanks for the video.

Tom
Thanks Carr... She still looks pretty good, but that video was shot back in her "younger" days.
.
cdee
.
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Old Oct 11, 2012, 07:51 AM
Slopeaholic
jimbo320's Avatar
Joined May 2011
3,645 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by cdee View Post
Thanks cdee/avie for the vids.

Now, do you have a pitts on 2s video?

Im thinking do i go 2s or 3s (3s will need new batteries purchased), so i can compare and decide which way to go.
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Old Oct 11, 2012, 08:33 AM
Which way is up?
stuball56's Avatar
Michigan, USA
Joined Mar 2008
686 Posts
What's up with these airplanes? I haven't flown in about a week due to mostly bad/windy weather. Now when I look at my Pitts I get sweaty palms, increased heartrate, and dilated pupils. Something they put in the foam? Is it the Welders fumes? What?
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Old Oct 11, 2012, 08:35 AM
Parkfly Padawan
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United States, PA, Waynesburg
Joined Aug 2011
940 Posts
Ha.... It must be. I get that from time to time too! I like to think that those feelings are not a reason for concern... but when you stop getting those symptoms, then it's time to be concerned. (or time to buy a new plane ;-) )
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Old Oct 11, 2012, 08:43 AM
Registered User
Indianapolis, IN
Joined Oct 2010
1,864 Posts
Fly it on 2S first, I actually prefer the light floatyness of 2S versus 3S.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jimbo320 View Post
Thanks cdee/avie for the vids.

Now, do you have a pitts on 2s video?

Im thinking do i go 2s or 3s (3s will need new batteries purchased), so i can compare and decide which way to go.
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Old Oct 11, 2012, 09:03 AM
Registered Addict
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United Kingdom, Stoke-on-Trent
Joined Jul 2010
5,247 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by IndyMatt View Post
Fly it on 2S first, I actually prefer the light floatyness of 2S versus 3S.
I am the opposite i prefer 3S much better for aggressive 3D.
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Old Oct 11, 2012, 09:52 AM
Slopeaholic
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Joined May 2011
3,645 Posts
She's done. Apart from one little bit.. The aileron interconnects. Whats the story on this? How do I get it accurate, since there appears to be no adjustment on the rods possible?
Thanks.
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Old Oct 11, 2012, 10:03 AM
Parkfly Padawan
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United States, PA, Waynesburg
Joined Aug 2011
940 Posts
That's tricky, and the worst part of the build in my opinion. You CAN add micro quick connects there like you have on the servo ends, if you have them. I planned on it, but ended up just gluing mine. Here was my method....

This will describe how I did one side (left wing). Just x2 it for the other side.

1. away from the wing, put the z-bend on one end of the carbon rod as described. CA+heatshrink. (it is a good idea to "eyeball" everything to make sure you have enough z-bend sticking out so the piece will reach both upper and lower wings).
2. Next, I attached that to the upper wing half and then turned the plane upside down (so the top wing is on the table, laying flat. If your servo is centered, the lower wing should be held flat by the servo).
3. now that both wings are relatively laying "flat", I put the z-bend through the control horn on the upper wing (which is laying on the table). Slide the heat shring onto the carbon rod and slide it up out of your way. Now CA the z-bend to the rod and slide the heatshring down into place. Heat and shrink. just be careful not to melt the foam.

Another method, which I think could work, would be to not glue the horns into the wing until after you have the connector rode assembled. This would take some careful measuring and maybe some sanding if it isn't quite right and some of the wood sticks out of the wing, but it could work.

Hopefully this makes sense....
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Old Oct 11, 2012, 11:09 AM
Slopeaholic
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Joined May 2011
3,645 Posts
Thanks J, I was thinking along the lines of the the first method you mentioned, good to have confirmation that someone had already tried it.
The micro connects would be a much better option, I don't have any, would anyone know where I could buy a set?
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Old Oct 11, 2012, 11:09 AM
Too much is just not enough...
Woody_99's Avatar
Joined Jan 2009
1,027 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by jimbo320 View Post
She's done. Apart from one little bit.. The aileron interconnects. Whats the story on this? How do I get it accurate, since there appears to be no adjustment on the rods possible?
Thanks.
I took the easy way out and used the quick connects from the kit on one end.
Local hobby shop had some quick connects, with pretty small ID hole. Just happened to be the perfect size for the Rudder and Elevator push rods. Installed them on the servos, and used the stock quick connects on the top wing connection.
Works perfectly.

On a side note, about the ailerons, I found I wasn't getting the control surface throw I wanted.
Turns out, after I put the extra smear of Welders on the hinges it made them pretty stiff.
Ended up removing the push rods and flexing the wings to max both ways for a few hours. (had done this before install too, but added Welders made it too stiff).
Make sure the hinges are VERY flexible, or the servo can't reach full deflection. Before re-flexing I could only get ~30 degrees, after I was >45 degrees. Flys much better!
Just wanted to mention that, since you are working in that area.
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Old Oct 11, 2012, 01:07 PM
Registered User
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United States, NY, New York
Joined Dec 2006
215 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Woody_99 View Post
I Turns out, after I put the extra smear of Welders on the hinges it made them pretty stiff.
.
Yeap, I made that mistake with my Yak
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Old Oct 11, 2012, 01:11 PM
3d addict
United States, NY, Rochester
Joined May 2011
1,038 Posts
I've had to smear a couple of my hinges. Of course I wouldn't call it extra. I'd call it a reattachment smear. Lol.
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Old Oct 11, 2012, 01:23 PM
Diverted by planks
tracknoob's Avatar
South Florida
Joined Dec 2010
5,025 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaeolien View Post
I've had to smear a couple of my hinges. Of course I wouldn't call it extra. I'd call it a reattachment smear. Lol.
Welder's and/or UhuPor makes AWESOME hinges -- much better alone, than you can do with pins, paper, plastic; either homemade or store-bought hinges, of about any type!

(That said, I don't think I'd want to take an already stiff and thick foam hinge and double it over with Welder's as I think might be recommended in the build instructions.)

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