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Old Apr 02, 2011, 06:03 PM
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Mini-HowTo
Turnigy 9x mod for CL, DL, RL or CL-Dare

Hi all,

I modified my Turnigy 9x to operate with either a RangeLink, ChainLink or DragonLink LRS system. Lately someone also applied this mod for a ChainLinkDare. I don't own a Scherrer or EzUhf so I don't know if the aproach would work there too.

This is a step by step instruction to end with what I think a pretty nice solution. What I missed from other tutorials were two things.

a) a clean way to connect to the transmitter signals while still haveing the option to use the trainer port

b) To have the lrs systems antenna point vertically. Most mods seem to mount it horizontaly. This is a missalignement of the antennas by 90 degrees which results in 12 dB loss, alas range would suffer quite a bit.

So here we go. I do not give any instructions on how to change the firmware in the Turnigy 9x as there are other tutorials describing this very well. Obviousely I strongly recommend to do so as the alternative firmwares are WAY better than what comes in the stock setup. This tutorial centers around connecting the CL (or DL, should work the same) to your transmitter.

The first picture showes the original Turnigy 9x back side with the original HF module in place. We don't need this module any more, but we need the housing!


Remove the module and open it's cover by unscrewing the two black small screws. Then remove the hot glue and cut off the antenna wire close to the PCB. Take the complete PCB out.


This is how the PCB that you have to take out looks like.


This is the back side of the PCB. Now cut off all components from the upper board, and seperate the boards. Unsolder all components except for the connector that leaves the original module and connects to the transmitter.


Once you have unsoldered the components, the board should look like this.


On the back side leave this connector.


Now solder the cable that came with your CL or DL to the board as shown in this picture. Make sure to FIRST route the cable through the hole in the original hf module cover.


Once done it should look like this.


Glue the PCB back into the housing using hot glue. Make sure not to use too much and to only glue it on the sides (like in the following picture). Otherwise the module cover will no longer snap in properly.


This picture showes the complete modification to the HF module.


Now we have to remove the original antenna. To do so, open up the TX housing (six screws) and disconnect the connector that goes to the main PCB inside the tx. You should have this in front of you.


Unscrew the marked screw, and pull the antenna out.


Unscrew the second screw also and take the black part out


You should end up with something like this.


Now cut off the remaining antenna tube from the main tx housing and grind it down to the level.


Attach velcro on the area.


Attach the other part of the velcro to the back side of your LRS system transmitter and put it in place. Connect the wire that comes out of the original HF module housing to the lrs transmitter.


This is how your transmitter now should look like.


Enjoy!

Markus
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Last edited by markus123456; Apr 08, 2012 at 04:55 AM. Reason: Added usability info of mod regarding other long range systems
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Old Apr 02, 2011, 06:08 PM
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looks good
but why not connect the cables to the module PINS of the radio directly ?

but i better like a 90º antenna and the UHF transmitter back
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Last edited by wallaguest1; Apr 02, 2011 at 06:29 PM.
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Old Apr 03, 2011, 03:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wallaguest1 View Post
looks good
but why not connect the cables to the module PINS of the radio directly ?

but i better like a 90º antenna and the UHF transmitter back
The basic idea is to use the hf module that came with the tx as the connector. The module is not of much value considering the extremly low price of the system. This gives a super clean connection to the tx.

The way one mounts the transmitter is to a degree a matter of personal taste. Haveing the antenna vertical however is not. The antennas that come with the systems don't have a 90 degree connection. I like the fact that I can easily acess the button and switch on the module and can SEE them when I have operate them. Besides, this aproach allows me to quickly switch between the dragon link and the chain link. I "have" both systems, well, at the point of this writeing I have the ChainLink and I'm still waiting for the DragonLink to arrive. I intend to use those systems alternatively and compare them side by side.

Of course, there are thousand ways to go to rome, this is just my aproach which I wanted to share.

Markus.
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Old Apr 06, 2011, 01:49 AM
Chinglish-funny
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Great!
Good tutorial
thanks,markus
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Old Apr 06, 2011, 01:59 AM
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Originally Posted by sid.huang View Post
Great!
Good tutorial
thanks,markus
You are welcome sid. Thanks for creating such a great product. Looking foreward to more flights on the coming week end.

Markus
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Old Apr 06, 2011, 05:08 AM
Crashomatic
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the reason for mounting horizontally, specially on the dl is that it acts as "power switch"
it flies very far with the antenna horizontal and mismatched polarity, but if you lose signal and have no rssi or somehow the signal dropped fast, you just rise the tx
its even faster than hitting a switch ;D

otherwise its nice. I suppose having the box further away from the LCD also alleviate the interference issues with the display
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Old Apr 06, 2011, 05:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CrashMeUp View Post
the reason for mounting horizontally, specially on the dl is that it acts as "power switch"
it flies very far with the antenna horizontal and mismatched polarity, but if you lose signal and have no rssi or somehow the signal dropped fast, you just rise the tx
its even faster than hitting a switch ;D

otherwise its nice. I suppose having the box further away from the LCD also alleviate the interference issues with the display
The velcro attachement aproach would not hinder you from having the DL mounted horizontaly.

Markus
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Old Apr 06, 2011, 05:21 AM
Crashomatic
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on mine i just replaced the module by foam and there's velcro on it ;-)
but it's not on the top the way you did it, its on the back. the cause lcd interferences, otherwise, i like it
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Old Apr 06, 2011, 05:35 AM
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Old Apr 19, 2011, 05:24 PM
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Any chance the CL inner circuit might fit inside the empty 9X module ?
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Old Apr 20, 2011, 02:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by i3dm View Post
Any chance the CL inner circuit might fit inside the empty 9X module ?
I haven't opened it yet, but when considering the position of the connectors, the pcb in there is too wide, so IMHO the answer is a sonding no.

Since the turnigy transmitter is so dead cheap (but still pretty good), I opted to buy a second one dedicated to long range systems. I have a CL, and ordered a DL, so I can use both systems with this transmitter.

Markus
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Old Apr 20, 2011, 04:26 AM
Crashomatic
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With the DL too close to the LCD the LCD goes crazy, i suspect it's going to be similar with the CL
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Old Apr 20, 2011, 04:32 AM
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Originally Posted by CrashMeUp View Post
With the DL too close to the LCD the LCD goes crazy, i suspect it's going to be similar with the CL
I'm still waiting with no sign of life for my DL (since february, and yes, I'm starting to get pretty anoyed about this) so I can't comment really. However if you look at how I impelmented it, the DL is (like the CL) in front of the transmitter and as such at maximum distance from the display.

Markus
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Old Apr 20, 2011, 04:37 AM
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Markus this is an outstanding tutorial (when I will want to go with LR I'll do it by this tutorial).. But first I'll try the cheapo ways
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Old Apr 20, 2011, 04:40 AM
Crashomatic
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markus123456 View Post
I'm still waiting with no sign of life for my DL (since february, and yes, I'm starting to get pretty anoyed about this) so I can't comment really. However if you look at how I impelmented it, the DL is (like the CL) in front of the transmitter and as such at maximum distance from the display.

Markus
Yes - my reply was for i3dm
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