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Old Feb 12, 2014, 01:37 PM
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Locked Up TD 020

My Dad found a Cox TD .020 in the bottom of his engine drawer and gave it to me. Its been many many years since it has been run but looks in good shape. It was locked up tight. I took the head off and the old Castor oil that had set up was very hard and it has some green residue but no rust. I don't think putting heat on it would be a good idea as the old Castor oil would just crumple. My question is what do I need to soak it in? Would denatured alcohol do anything to loosen and do I need to take the piston and crank out (after it frees up) and do a complete cleaning?
Any suggestions would be very helpful.
Thanks
Nick
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Old Feb 12, 2014, 02:32 PM
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In answer to your last question, I think you'd be taking a big risk if you didn't clean the whole thing. I would normally suggest soaking it for a few days in a good carburetor cleaning product, but I don't know if that is a safe option for the plastic parts.
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Old Feb 12, 2014, 03:02 PM
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I don't know what you mean by "...the old Castor oil would just crumple", but heat would be the first method I would try in freeing it up. Heat or chemical method though, I would suggest first taking off the plastic tank/backplate and carburetor body so that you don't distort or melt them.

Of course you want to be careful with whatever methods, but the good news is that the piston/cylinder of a TD .020 is the same part as on a Pee Wee, so if you have to sacrifice something, its better to loose the piston/cylinder set than anything else on your TD.
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Old Feb 12, 2014, 06:48 PM
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Soak it in a jar of glow fuel for as long as it takes.
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Old Feb 12, 2014, 08:18 PM
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What I meant by "...the old Castor oil would just crumple. When I took the head off there was dried castor oil on the cylinder wall. I reached in with my finger and it popped off but it just crumpled in my hand when i squeezed it just like a cracker would. This engine probably hasn't been run since the 1960's.
So the piston and cylinder is the same on a 020 TD and Pee Wee. Would the crankshaft and rod be the same also? Where would I find pistons, cylinders,crank and rod for these engines? Are these parts you have to find old stock from an individual? I know I have a lot of questions but I do appreciate all the help y'all continue to give me.
Soaking in fuel right now

Nick
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Old Feb 12, 2014, 08:44 PM
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Cox international has some parts for the .020 as well as Select Hobbies
http://coxengines.ca/cox-020/
http://www.selecthobbies.com/enginepartsdata.htm
Only the cylinder/piston & glow head are commons for the TD and PeeWee .020 not the crankshaft and the con-rod is part of the piston assembly(ball joint design). with Cox engines the piston&cylinder comes as a matched pair due to very close tolerance, as long as you use proper fuel with 20% castor nothing will wear down. The only thing to go bad is the plastic parts of the engine which crack with age but you can get them from Cox International or select Hobbies. You can see the original manual here:
http://coxengines.ca/engine-and-fuel-guides.html
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Old Feb 13, 2014, 04:21 AM
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I have a perfectly good Black Widow that I ran a few years ago seeing which cylinder/piston combination was best (I have several).

When I found out, I oiled the engine and put it in case with my other engines.

This week I pulled it out and it's frozen solid. Took a heat gun to it for about a minute and that loosened the oil well enough to turn over the engine. Then I flooded it with light oil and kept turning it over.

Finally I opened it up and took it apart to clean out the gunk.

Heat is your friend.
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Old Feb 13, 2014, 09:00 AM
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Parts are also available in the US from:

www.exmodelengines.com/
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Old Feb 22, 2014, 09:41 AM
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After the plastic parts are removed, one way to gently loosen the Castor oil's grip on the piston is to place it in boiling water for a couple minutes. I did this to small Enya and OS engines, and it freed up the frozen cylinder liner. Boiling water is more gentle to the metal than a torch. This is after other methods have failed like soaking in acetone or carburetor cleaner.

Most parts are available except for the piston and cylinder, so you'll want to take care during cleaning and unfreezing.
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Old Feb 23, 2014, 05:15 PM
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Almost all carb cleaners will damage the plastic immediately, and will also damage/ etch any aluminum parts if left in to long. If it is congealed oil, boiling works good ( like what was mentioned above) or solvents, alcohol, fuel, acetone, lacquer thiner ect . If you boil it just be sure to clean ,dry and oil the parts right after.
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Old Feb 26, 2014, 10:26 AM
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You got a point there, Robert. It's been a while since I last used carb cleaner. I bought two Enya's for a song off E-Bay that had good compression, but the exterior was badly discolored darkening the aluminum finish. Some used some some form of solvent or cleaner that was incompatible, could be carb cleaner. Some of the stuff I used a way while back seemed okay. Don't know what they've done recently to meet EPA with a kinder, gentler solution, LOL.

Acetone and lacquer thinner have worked fine for me. Some others claim excellent results using a 50%-50% antifreeze/water solution in a crockpot, although I haven't tried it myself.
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Old Feb 26, 2014, 01:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GallopingGhostlr View Post
Some others claim excellent results using a 50%-50% antifreeze/water solution in a crockpot, although I haven't tried it myself.
It works, but can discolor the crank if left in too long, or any parts are allowed to be exposed to air during the "cooking" process. But it does break up the gunk fairly well, or at least soften it. I did an Enya .09IV and an old OS .10 awhile back, and both came out pretty clean. There was some scrubbing and "tooth-picking" that needed to be done to get some gunk out of nooks and crannies, but it did work well!
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Old Feb 26, 2014, 02:20 PM
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Yes, most all spray can carb cleaners sold in California have acetone, toluene, hexane. Wont hurt metal, but can damage plastics, rubbers( depending on what type).

The dip types are much stronger and will damage almost any plastics. Of the two dip types I have, one contains methylene chloride ( paint stripper) as a main ingredient, the other one sodium hydroxide( lye).

The lye is what will eat/ etch/ discolor metal. I remember soaking a chainsaw carb for a little to long( over night ) and it looked like swiss cheese.

Cleaners like Purple Power have lye in them and will damage aluminum.

When cleaning stainless steel aircraft muffler shrouds the only thing that would remove the baked on oil( besides bead blasting) was oven cleaner ( lye).
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Old Feb 26, 2014, 02:48 PM
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What about good ol WD 40 or marvel mystery oil to soak with.
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Old Feb 26, 2014, 08:39 PM
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I've seen Marvel Mystery Oil in the stores, but never bothered to pick some up. I guess some use as after-run oil, some motorcyclists claim to have put some in their gas supposedly to lubricate valves, especially those older ones without hardened seats. Don't really know what it is good for, or that I should pick some up and try it, but then for what.
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