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Old Oct 26, 2009, 06:54 PM
Cut it twice, still too short
dglo's Avatar
Bay City, MI
Joined Oct 2007
647 Posts
Build Log
Dare B-17 Flying Fortress

I'm going to attempt in my own feeble way to create a build log for the Pat Tritle designed, Dare B-17. Partly because I haven't been able to find one on RCG that was followed through to the end, partly because I will probably need a lot of help along the way, and partly because I think it will add to the experience. I wish Pat's original build thread was available since it would be a big help, but maybe that was before he started making them, I think he made the prototype in the late 90's.

This will be my 4th plane of Pat's design and by far the most ambitious. If you want to see the others there are pics in my blog. First one was the 52" Super Cub, then the 44" Tiger Moth and I just finished the 35" Waco YMF-5. All are great planes and a lot of fun to build.

This may be a long process since I'm a slow builder, but I am laid off from work so should have a lot of time to put into it. I've never done a build log before so bear with me, and if anyone has suggestions on how to improve it let me know.

The kit arrived today and man that was fast. I ordered it from Dare on Friday and it was here on Monday. First impressions: Kit was well packed with no damage, wood quality is good and the laser cutting is excellent, very little burning. This is definitely a builders kit, the instructions consist of 3 pages. I think the plans were drawn before Pat got CAD, but they look good.
On the down side, for 200 bucks I was expecting a little more in the kit, no wheels, control linkaages, hinges, etc. The only hardware in the box was 2 wing hold down bolts, landing gear hold down straps, a few screws and the unbent wire for making the landing gear. But, where else are you gonna find a 75.5 inch span B-17 that will fly on 4 speed 400 brushed motors?

I got some much appreciated advice on the power setup from numerous people, and after talking with Pat via e-mail, today I ordered 4 MPJet 2.33:1 gearboxes with S400 brushed motors. Major components still to get are a 40-50 amp esc and a 2S lipo around 4500mah.

I've always wanted a B-17 since I first got into RC just a few years ago, partly due the fact my late father-in-law, a man I much admired, was a navigator on one during WWII. We never really talked about specifics with him, and I am trying to research the history so I can get the insignia as close to right as possible. I still remember taking him to an airshow where we toured a B-17, and the tears in his eyes remembering when the gunner in the ball turret was killed.

Anyway, stay tuned

Doug
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Old Oct 26, 2009, 07:57 PM
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portablevcb's Avatar
Albuquerque, NM USA
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And you forgot the one other bennie to a build thread. Those of us in here following it will hound you till you get it done!

charlie
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Old Oct 27, 2009, 03:54 PM
Cut it twice, still too short
dglo's Avatar
Bay City, MI
Joined Oct 2007
647 Posts
Bowed Outlines

Made the forms and glued up the bowed outlines today. Anyone who has built a Tritle plane already knows how to do this . This was the easy part, been there done that, but still scratchin my head on how to build the symmetrical wings and airfoiled tail surfaces, Everything else I've built has been constant chord, flat bottom or semi-symmetrical, lots of shims I guess . Is there an easy way?

Doug
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Old Oct 27, 2009, 04:20 PM
It flew once before...
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Northwood , New Hampshire
Joined Jul 2004
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Doug ,

Off to a nice start !

-John
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Old Oct 27, 2009, 04:20 PM
TRP
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United States, CA, Morgan Hill
Joined Jun 2002
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Nice to see a Dare B17 thread. We're going to hold you to the "... followed through to the end..." part.

She'll be a beauty when she's done.

Ted
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Old Oct 27, 2009, 04:51 PM
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Nuremberg (Germany)
Joined Sep 2005
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That's,what i want to read

I had seen you had build wonderful models. So i hope the B-17 will be the same.

Good Luck and the Thread is in my linklist
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Old Oct 27, 2009, 05:13 PM
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For tapered/airfoil tail surfaces, I just use shims. So, if the stab has a 1/4" spar and 1/8" LE, then 1/16" shims around the LE. Then use 1/4" wide 'ribs' and sand them later. I put the shims in between the 'ribs' so as not to glue them to the structure.

Sanding is easiest with a sanding bar that is wide enough to span the surface. Sometimes I will put a piece of wire or hardwood of the appropriate thickness at the LE and TE to keep from sanding too much.

Nope, no easy way to do it

charlie
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Old Oct 27, 2009, 08:19 PM
Cut it twice, still too short
dglo's Avatar
Bay City, MI
Joined Oct 2007
647 Posts
Thanks Charlie, I hadn't really put a lot of thought into it yet, but your explanation makes it clearer. As usual, I was just thinking ahead a little, things are always easier when you sit down and actually start working on it, rather than trying to figure it out while working on something else
BTW, I hope you meant 1/4" TALL ribs, not wide, Pat wouldn't use 1/4" thick ribs ever, well maybe if it was a full scale B-17 .

Thanks to all for following along, it's nice to get some feedback, positive or negative, so don't hold back. If you see me doing something the dumbass way, let me know....It's possible cause I've got "dumbass" I've never even used!

Doug
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Last edited by dglo; Oct 27, 2009 at 08:24 PM.
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Old Oct 27, 2009, 08:35 PM
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Yep, tall.
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Old Oct 28, 2009, 08:14 AM
Cut it twice, still too short
dglo's Avatar
Bay City, MI
Joined Oct 2007
647 Posts
Remember those "dumbass moments" I was referring to? I just realized one I have made in the past. I sometimes have trouble getting a good glue joint where the outlines attach to the other parts of the wing, usually breaking when I start sanding. This morning while taking them off the forms it came to me. I usually rub the edges of the forms with bar soap so the outlines don't get stuck to the forms...well, duh. So this time I cleaned the inside edges with lacquer thinner to get the soap residue off, maybe it'll work better this time?
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Old Oct 28, 2009, 09:38 AM
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I have this same kit.... I haven't started it yet.

Like you, I was frustrated to NOT find a build threat that actually completed the plane.

My other frustration is/has been finding motors. I emailed Pat, (he'll probaby chime in at some point) and we discussed motor options.

Pat is still flying his Fort. Says it draws quite a crowd. I can imagine...
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Old Oct 28, 2009, 09:51 AM
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Singapore
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Me too. I bought one this year and hope to build it next year. Was very attracted by the gorgeous sound of the 4 Mini Olympus geared motors from the online videos of Pat's B17 in flight. Tried very hard to source for them and managed to locate only one supplier in UK (I live in Singapore) but they were very costly. Pat had advised that if I can forget about having the sound attraction, using brushless motors is the way to go. Cheaper set-up and greater efficiency. I will also be following this thread with great interest.
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Old Oct 28, 2009, 10:41 AM
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Doug,

I too have had issues with laminated stuff. I like to put a strip of ply in the layup to make things a bit stiffer. Would put the ply strip on first, then the balsa layers. Finally figured out trying to glue to the face of the ply was iffy. So, at least one layer of balsa first, then ply, then balsa to till out the rest. Haven't had any problems since. I also apply a gusset near each end of the lamination to give it a good bond to the main part.

charlie
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Old Oct 28, 2009, 03:20 PM
Cut it twice, still too short
dglo's Avatar
Bay City, MI
Joined Oct 2007
647 Posts
vsmguy & preferscale, On Pat's advice I ordered the MPJet 2.33:1 gearboxes and S400 brushless motors, found them at Northeast Sailplane Products. All 4gearboxes and motors for $75.60 plus shipping. http://nesail.com/detail.php?productID=2036 Don't know if they will sound anything like the Mini-Olympus, but this plane just wouldn't be the same without that growl.

Doug

NE Sailplane had gearboxes on backorder for a long time, so I got them through Hobby Lobby, but more money
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Last edited by dglo; Jan 11, 2010 at 03:58 PM.
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Old Oct 28, 2009, 03:38 PM
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Everett Wa.
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Growl heck more like howl.
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