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Old Feb 15, 2015, 09:45 PM
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bafbob's Avatar
United States, VT, Brattleboro
Joined Aug 2012
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New Pulsar 3.6 winch launch

I have a new Pulsar 3.6 FH on the way. A non-electric! I still have my trusty 3.2 REF E-Pulsar ready for ALES action - but I figured The 3.6 will be interchangable with the E-fuse.
And I thought I'd use MKS 6100s in the wing - with those nifty little support bearings built into the servo frames from SUSA. Has anybody used them with the 6100s?
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Last edited by bafbob; Feb 23, 2015 at 07:02 AM. Reason: remove photo add info
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Old Feb 15, 2015, 10:33 PM
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Joined Mar 2009
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Speaking of snow we have lots up here in Montgomery too. Looks like you have more further South though there is a lot more in the Mountains..

Here are some pictures, skiing with friends in the backcountry last week.

I am on the right in the first pic. We use climbing skins to get up into these natural bowls.

When it's warmer (about freezing) been flying some aircraft at our flying field with floats right off the snow! See last picture. Smaller Ultra Stick is mine.
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Last edited by 320pilot; Feb 15, 2015 at 10:50 PM.
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Old Feb 17, 2015, 09:55 PM
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United States, VT, Brattleboro
Joined Aug 2012
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I took Espiars advice quoted below to cover the old Pulsar wing repair and it worked flawlessly. The TE is close to perfect and the patterns were very helpful getting everything to fit and snug before shrinking. I think the covering wrap-around makes for a stronger, straighter TE.

Espiar's Quote: The trick with re-covering is
1. do not try to make a join or overlap of covering on rear edge - it will buckle. A piece large enough to do bottom/ top in one go wrapped around TE is the go.
2. On mine I made a paper pattern accurately. Firstly I ensured existing covering was sealed onto rib (they do distort slightly) and trimmed it with only 2mm max overlapping. Alternatively you could remove all covering - but I did not.
3. I then trimmed new covering to pattern ensuring it overlapped old covering by about 4 mm max and pulled reasonably tight taping it to D box and along sides with small pieces of masking tape.
4. Touch sealed along outer rib edges then others and along d box and then sealed along outsides. Then carefully worked from TE (top and bottom) with minimum heat to get uniform shrinkage. Still ended up with a very small wave which I am trying to ignore.
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Old Feb 17, 2015, 10:53 PM
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Australia, NSW, Galston
Joined Apr 2014
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Looks good. just finished off covering an Eratix that had to be stripped and rebuilt (they stopped selling them in Aus.) - 4 colours many overlapping - pain in butt.
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Old Feb 20, 2015, 08:34 PM
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United States, VT, Brattleboro
Joined Aug 2012
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Electricfying this old bird

I also used hitechpi50's technique of injecting foam into the voids in the D-tube. Seems to help stiffen the area.

Now that I've rebuilt the wing The owner is interested in an ALES conversion to avoid winching and preserve the extensive repair to the center section. (I must admit here that this is a string launch Pulsar and it shouldn't even be on this thread) .

We are looking at the inexpensive GP Ammo motor/Gearbox discussed earlier in this thread. I will cut off the nose and much of the inner pod structure, cut a canopy opening and build a firewall to the cone. I'd like to cut the nose at 30mm to keep as much length as possible. Any advice/comments?

Then again, I'm looking at the 28-56mm Ammo can motor as a possible direct drive, This would simplify things in the pod and the specs say it will trun a 16" porp. I havent done DD on a plane this big - Who has tried?
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Old Feb 21, 2015, 12:46 AM
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Orange County, CA
Joined Aug 2004
4,843 Posts
Gotten a couple of flights on my 4000e Pro. Pretty happy. Totally uneventful maiden, no trim needed. Going to bump up the aileron throw a bit and play with the ail to rudder mix a little, but so far I really like it.

Futaba 3270SVi all around, R7003SB RX, all S.Bus setup. Neu 1105 2.5y-6.7, 16x8 prop (for now), Dinogy 65C 1300 mAh pack for motor and a 2S 900 lipo for the radio. Not a fan of BEC, that's just me. ESC is Castle Edge Lite 75 amp (I like lots of headroom on my ESCs).

All up weight with CG @100mm is 57 ounces. Going to have to figure a way to add ballast for windy days.

First contest outing this weekend at the Southwest Classic in Queen Crek, AZ.
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Old Feb 23, 2015, 12:06 AM
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Australia, NSW, Galston
Joined Apr 2014
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I have electrified three gliders - an old Graupner scale and a cheap fly fly ASK 28 and a Tangent Alpina 3M . What follows is NOT a how to - it is just what I did.

Taped on my gear at appropriate spots outside body to see that I had a CG near the mark and to avoid lead weight and get a handle on likely battery size ( I like my Lead weight to have power).
Cut nose -in this case dead straight but on mine had room so gave it a bit of thrust angle and tiny bit of down (but not for a Pulsar).
Cut a circular piece of good ply - say 3 mm thick - more or less - about 1 mm smaller than opening - or size of opening if you want it to sit back inside a little. I predrilled my centre hole.
Cut two circles of 150 gsm fibreglass about 1 inch bigger diameter (1/2 inch extra all round) and laminated one to each side of ply -without letting resin flow beyond ply (keeping ALL outer F/G dry).
When this set I pushed motor mount into place from inside after ensuring inner surface clean and a little rough. Then used lay up resin to wet out glass fibre ensuring all is against insides of fuse - it should stay in contact and aligned (on the Alpina I had to clamp it) - this will give a solid motor mount that is unlikely to shift and if done neatly will not take up much space where gearbox fits in. (A guy at our club pushes in a skinny balloon and inflates it to hold glass close to sides - I didn't bother)
You could make up a Kevlar mount like in Pulsars but trying to bond a thin disc to surface of Fuse will pose a few problems and may work loose.
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Last edited by Espiar; Feb 23, 2015 at 12:35 AM.
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Old Feb 23, 2015, 01:54 PM
Team Futaba
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Orange County, CA
Joined Aug 2004
4,843 Posts
Really liking the Pulsar!! Calculated that I am only pulling about 24 amps on launch right now with the 16x8 prop. Going to jump it up to a 17x10 which should be about right. Went conservative for the first few flights to see where I was. Still got to 200 meters in under 30 seconds, but I would like a bit more performance to range out and up prior to cut off altitude/time.

Also need to add ballast provisions. at 57 ounces it is too light if the wind comes up mush above about 8 mph.

Otherwise I am one happy camper!! Here's a picture of my Pulsar and Xplorer2 4 meter from this weekend.
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Old Feb 23, 2015, 02:38 PM
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United States, VT, Brattleboro
Joined Aug 2012
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3.2 - 3.6

I'm planning on using my 3.6 wing on my 3.2 REF fuse. I have plenty of power to spare - running a Neu 1115/2.5D/6.7 with 1n 18/12.5 prop. I put it on soft start to keep from ripping the wings off! I use a 4 cell 25C 2200 pack when the wind is up
and a 3 cell 1300/70C in light air.
I have had to add up to 8oz of ballast to get it down when a gale comes through - but that big motor and battery are worth their weight in gold - This on an REF! Can't wait to see how it flys with the 3.6 full house set-up.

Bob
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Old Feb 23, 2015, 04:45 PM
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Australia, NSW, Galston
Joined Apr 2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bafbob View Post
Can't wait to see how it flys with the 3.6 full house set-up.

Bob
Like a Bird?

Immature white bellied sea eagle taking close and personal interest in our gliders last week back.
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Old Feb 26, 2015, 06:16 PM
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United States, VT, Brattleboro
Joined Aug 2012
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Wing servo install

I have been working out the servo geometry for my new 3.6 wing. I decided to go with the MKS 6100s that I've used in 3.2 wings and tail. I've blown through a few of these with injudicious use of flaps (and failure to retract on contact) but I think I was using more flap than necessary for the amount of inertia this plane carries to the spot landing. Instead of the 90 deflection, I will use only about 70 of throw with corresponding shorter servo arms (better torque advantage). Together with the ball bearing support frames this should improve servo efficiency.
I will play around with the settings and maybe add a bit of crow this spring - if the snow ever melts. Here are some photos.
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Last edited by bafbob; Feb 27, 2015 at 08:37 PM.
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Old Feb 27, 2015, 08:35 PM
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Australia, NSW, Galston
Joined Apr 2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bafbob View Post
- if the snow ever melts. Here are some photos.
Amazing what 16000 Km (10000miles) can do. We are having 27C degrees (81 F) but not a good thermal day.

My setup is a bit more agricultural than some of you like: I used 5125 Hitecs in all but rudder and MVVS motor with 4 cells.
As you can see the climb is 140 metres (~460 ft) in 12.x seconds (radio said 12 but means not 13) or 650-700 metres / minute i.e. it doesn't stuff about and it doesn't actually look all that fast but quite steep.
Thermals were poor-worked this one until it went OOB and didn't find the next until a later flight
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