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Old May 10, 2014, 07:57 AM
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Joined Mar 2009
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Is this thing on ???
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Last edited by ZED_C; May 10, 2014 at 08:09 AM.
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Old May 10, 2014, 08:07 AM
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Joined Mar 2009
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So I decided that I should build a boiler for my D10....
Getting material was difficult, however I had some luck with local plumbing supplies shop, they had a piece of 4 inch tube and I got it free of charge.
2 inch 16 gauge was totally different story, I ended up buying it from Maccsteam.
Sounds a bit ridiculous but it is true, had to buy a piece of copper tube from half a planet away.
I do not have drawings for this boiler, I'm basically "freestyling"

Forming the endcaps was straight forward, two timber blocks, oxy set and a lot of patience, just keep annealing the part as soon as it starts ringing when you hit it with a hammer.
Anyway, have look at the photos, any advice is welcome
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Old May 12, 2014, 07:58 AM
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Toronto, Canada
Joined Nov 2004
1,285 Posts
From the looks of it you do not need any advise.
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Old May 12, 2014, 06:30 PM
Bernouli effect is overrated
Daedalus_'s Avatar
Joined Apr 2014
45 Posts
Thanks Gerald,

I can find my way around workshop easily , but I also believe that all people know everything, single person does not.
Is there any rule for smokestack size ? I intend to use 32 mm dia. tube.
Entire boiler will be 290mm long, am I overdoing things here ?

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Old May 14, 2014, 09:26 AM
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Somerset England
Joined Feb 2007
1,264 Posts
Most of the boilers I have seen have a flue that is smaller than the fire tube , I would guess by about a third. Not sure why , but I am guessing it is an attempt to get all that nice heat to stay in a little longer.
Don't forget to use higher melting point rods for the burner tube and slightly lower for the ends, like I didn't first time round and had silver solder melting all over the place
Nice engine by the way.
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Old Aug 18, 2014, 09:12 PM
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lake orion mi
Joined Sep 2002
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any updates???
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Old Nov 16, 2014, 02:20 AM
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Joined Mar 2009
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Still making progress, just finding it difficult to find free time.
Anyway, I managed to silver solder the boiler. Everything went quite well...
I drilled and tapped only one journal, that way there is no extra holes to plug for pressure testing.
And, I have to bore a hole for a chimney/smokestack/funnel.
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Old Nov 18, 2014, 09:55 PM
Steamy laser dude.
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Canada, BC, Victoria
Joined Oct 2011
298 Posts
Looking good so far!
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Old Jan 09, 2015, 05:23 AM
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Melbourne, Australia
Joined Mar 2009
1,441 Posts
Originally Posted by ZED_C View Post
Today's exercise was making cylinder covers. There are only steam chest covers and the flywheel left as far as Cast Iron parts are concerned.
Soon I will have to start working on the crankshaft, I think that I will take Loctite and pins approach. I don't like the idea of soldering because of possibility of distortion.
Can someone please tell me about the pins, are they small dowels ? Where can I get them from ?
Also I am considering making counterweights on crankshaft webs, did anyone try doing this ? I think that it will add to the dynamics/appearance of the engine, maybe even make it a bit smoother.
I tapped the gland ports M8 x 1.25 (a. Because I had a tap handy, and b. Because I only have metric change gears for my (imperial) Chinese lathe.
Love the captions... Took me a couple of posts to realise you were piss taking.



Ps. I have turned up a couple of cranks for these engines now from forged blanks. It's easier than it looks.
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