young1670: That lead tape is exactly what you want for balancing tires. It shouldn't take a whole lot of it.

Originally Posted by Tüsken

I bought mine from http://megagolf.jetshop.se/default.a...tejp-p-72.aspx in Sweden. It's 2m of lead tape so you will have it for the rest of your life

Search for "Mitchell Lead Tape". Probably you will find some store near you.

Thank youu very much.

My "Worlds 2012" stock Electronics finally arrived yesterday!
So, I am preparing the bike for practising...
I tried my ACE servo, only to discover it is RIP! OK, an email later, solution on it was found, so, for now a Savox 1251 low profile will do.
I install it on the bike, also using te 2mm spacers front and rear to make it up to the instruction book's 17mm height, and realized it rubs heavily on the rear of the bottom suspension arm...
OK, I'm puzzled now, I'm not sure if it always did it, with the ACE or with the Savox, which I have used again (at Lostallo and my local track, because the large DS1015 was fouling the ESC fan)...
So, is it correct that the downward movement of the front suspension is stopped by the rear servo bolts at the lower suspension arm, or it should pass by it and have more down travel?!
With it stopped, I have a static ground clearance (bottom of battery case to the ground) of 48-49mm front and 51-52mm rear.
I believe that IF I let that travel free, the front GC would be something like maybe 60 or more mm!!!

Any advice, please?!

Originally Posted by steliosh

My "Worlds 2012" stock Electronics finally arrived yesterday!
So, I am preparing the bike for practising...
I tried my ACE servo, only to discover it is RIP! OK, an email later, solution on it was found, so, for now a Savox 1251 low profile will do.
I install it on the bike, also using te 2mm spacers front and rear to make it up to the instruction book's 17mm height, and realized it rubs heavily on the rear of the bottom suspension arm...
OK, I'm puzzled now, I'm not sure if it always did it, with the ACE or with the Savox, which I have used again (at Lostallo and my local track, because the large DS1015 was fouling the ESC fan)...
So, is it correct that the downward movement of the front suspension is stopped by the rear servo bolts at the lower suspension arm, or it should pass by it and have more down travel?!
With it stopped, I have a static ground clearance (bottom of battery case to the ground) of 48-49mm front and 51-52mm rear.
I believe that IF I let that travel free, the front GC would be something like maybe 60 or more mm!!!

Any advice, please?!

I had the same problem with mine - but it was minor. I just took a sanding drum on my dremel and removed the inside edge on the a-arm that interfered. It did help to loosen the bolts a bit and scoot the servo forward while tightening. Another tip - when you tighten the 1251, check if the steering dampers rub the edge of the arms (check from lock-to-lock). If it does - loosen the bolts and re-center it.

-rskip

Check with low profile servos that you still have enough steering travel.
Usually on those servos the spline is more to one side then the dampers
are too short.

I took the bike to a local parking lot, on the way to work, this afternoon...
With the rear of the servo limiting the down travel of the front suspension arms, I set the sag to be about 3mm front and rear, ride height (distance from battery case to the ground) 48 front, 51 rear.
I might just drill the top front suspension arm a bit and install two long bolts to act as droop limiters (I am copying this idea from a pic I took at Riccione, in October, of Andrea Selva's bike!!!).

The bike was astonishingly good feeling, as it was, with the new Worlds electronics (SP ESC and MMM 13.5 motor), geared (to be further tested in hotter weather!) at 87/28...
Oh... it was also the first run of the new Clark W. wheels and tires!
Only one "bad" side-effect: the bike is juuuuuuuust 20 grams underweight, compared with my last stock trying, which was with either a Ricou-Corps or ZH rear wheel... So, even with the heavy inserts, it seems the rear wheel is a bit lighter.

Thanks for the tips on the Savox low profile servo. I am first changing the Sub-Trim to center the servo action (it goes around 34-35%) and then reduce the EPA's. I think someone has suggested to do it in this order a few pages back...
I have installed spacers below the servo mounts to make it to the manual specified 17mm. When turning, fortunately there is no drag against the top front suspension arm's insides...

Tires and inserts are arrived today. I am going to build two sets of tires.
One set with NF inserts and the other set with Massari inserts. Tires are all PMT 200 slick and wheel hubs are stock plastic.

As you can see the following photos, the weight difference is a lot.
How much lead should I put on for each set up? In other words what would be target weight of each set up?

Thank you very much in advance.

Originally Posted by young1670

Tires and inserts are arrived today. I am going to build two sets of tires.
One set with NF inserts and the other set with Massari inserts. Tires are all PMT 200 slick and wheel hubs are stock plastic.

As you can see the following photos, the weight difference is a lot.
How much lead should I put on for each set up? In other words what would be target weight of each set up?

Thank you very much in advance.

Front approx . 110g (+/-5g)
Rear approx. 190g (+/-10g)

I personally wouldnt waste any time with the PMT Inserts. Especially the yellow ones.

My "Clark's" wheels and tires (Massari inserts) weigh 107gr. front and 206gr rear.
(Glued PMT200 on TT white rims).

The Massari Fronts are okay. The heavy rear makes bikes handle like aircraftcarriers

To be a bit more precise: The rear wheel builds up a lot of gyroscopic force. To get
a bike to turn you then need harder steering springs. To make a bike controlable with
harder springs you go and reduce Dual Rate on the steering. All no problem up to now.
Most bikes do not have enough torsional rigidy. So you are forcing the front wheel
into a turn and the rear wants to stay up. You are twistforcing the bike into a turn.
Still no problem. But the moment you hit a bump and a wheel is in the air the bike
releases the stress and you are flying. Also if you are pressing the bike down at
high angle leaning the wheels also loose contact suddenly and again you get this
whiplash effect. I saw this so often this year standig down on the track:

Moral: Do more voluntary marshalling

Originally Posted by edi.winter

Front approx . 110g (+/-5g)
Rear approx. 190g (+/-10g)

I personally wouldnt waste any time with the PMT Inserts. Especially the yellow ones.

Hi edi,

The yellow front insert is NF 62/C. Is that bad? Which one should I use for front insert?

my "Clark's" are within the limits you propose, Edi...

Originally Posted by young1670

Hi edi,

The yellow front insert is NF 62/C. Is that bad? Which one should I use for front insert?

Well you can try them. But I would simply use the Massari for the front and never touch the yellow NF inserts anymore.

207g is between 7g and 17g higher than I would try. You would not believe what 10g more or less can do to a bikes handling. I always target the 190g or less. Unluckally I have not yet found a proper solution for lighter rear wheels. My soggy (mathematical) dreams for the rear would be 180g.

But thats not the whole story. You also have to think about the Wheel crossection and where the CG lies (Radius) in this 2D Crossection... The further out the less weight is needed for the same amount of stability... Heayier spokes never have the same effect as a heavier insert.... etc.

Originally Posted by edi.winter

The Massari Fronts are okay. The heavy rear makes bikes handle like aircraftcarriers

To be a bit more precise: The rear wheel builds up a lot of gyroscopic force. To get
a bike to turn you then need harder steering springs. To make a bike controlable with
harder springs you go and reduce Dual Rate on the steering. All no problem up to now.
Most bikes do not have enough torsional rigidy. So you are forcing the front wheel
into a turn and the rear wants to stay up. You are twistforcing the bike into a turn.
Still no problem. But the moment you hit a bump and a wheel is in the air the bike
releases the stress and you are flying. Also if you are pressing the bike down at
high angle leaning the wheels also loose contact suddenly and again you get this
whiplash effect. I saw this so often this year standig down on the track:

Moral: Do more voluntary marshalling

Sound very scary.
If I use your swing arm box and a rear swing arm made of high quality CFK whicih RC-Motorradshop.de is selling, would situation be better?

Originally Posted by young1670

Sound very scary.
If I use your swing arm box and a rear swing arm made of high quality CFK whicih RC-Motorradshop.de is selling, would situation be better?

Makes things better, but the Sb5 has a soft front end too.